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RV Water Hose: Keep from Freezing
09-09-2011, 12:11 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 953
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I use a high grade fresh water drinking hose, pipe foam insulator (below pic center) and a heat tape 25 foot made by 3M (Home Depot) (below pic Left). This method has worked several winters below zero temps.
Lay the heat tape inside high grade plumbing pipe foam insulator (Don't twirl the heat tape around the hose). There are two quality levels of pipe unsulator.. Get the better. You'll need two or three. They come in 6ft length.
Lay and keep the heat tape on the bottom side of the pipe foam insulator tube in a straight line. Lay the water hose inline on top of the heat tape.
Note: Don't let the heat tape touch itself since that may create a hot spot and melt the heat tape where it touches.
Once you have the pipe insulator and heat tape inside it and water hose inside the insulator tube, take some black duct tape and wrap every 5" inches or so (Not too tightly).
Allow the heat tape coil thermostat to stay exposed to the air. It will come on at about 35-40 degrees. The heat tape when on should be slighty warm to touch.
Coil the left over heat tape up (if any) and place inside your water compartment to help warm it up. The heat tape doesn't get hot enough to damage anything except maybe itself.
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Fleetwood Providence 2008 40e
Ford F-350 4x4 Diesel 6.0L 2006
Honda CR-V 2006
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09-09-2011, 12:20 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Full Timer - Sioux Falls, SD
Posts: 1,937
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You can get pipe foam with an adhesive on the edges that is covered with a plastic strip you remove after you install it. The only taping on the foam then is the butt joints.
The themostat should be taped to the hose so it senses the water temperature in the hose. I cover that area with foam also.
Also I prefer to secure the heat tape to the hose every few inches with electrical tape.
I made mine up about eight years ago and it is still working.
A lot of people say to take the hose in when it's cold and use water out of the tank but that's too much hassle for me. I prefer the heated hose.
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Clay WA5NMR - Fulltiming- 2004 Winnebago Sightseer 35N Workhorse chassis. Honda Accord toad.
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09-09-2011, 12:33 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Western Montana on the Divide
Posts: 730
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What Clay said.
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Bob Retired Army Traveling alone now.
2008 Camelot 40 PDQ 4 slides ISL400
Western MT in summer, AZ, NV in winter
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09-09-2011, 01:46 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner Damon Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 8,078
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What I do.. WHere I winter temps rarley drop to the teens. Though 20's are common
I taped (Duck tape) a string of rope lights to the hose,, Just enough heat to keep it liquid and it looks neat with the ty-dye type duct tape and the colored lights (or are they all white, I forget)
Second. .Due to over clornation of the water where I park I took to filling the fresh tank on the motor home. let it sit and the chlorine taste fades.. So since I'm not actively using the park water save to fill the tank, ONce full I drain the hose
The lights are on a thermostat, And I'll coil it around the park's water pipe to keep it from freezing when I drain it.
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Home is where I park it!
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09-09-2011, 03:44 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Body's in Las Vegas, Heart & Soul's in Texas
Posts: 426
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Batman_777
I use a high grade fresh water drinking hose, pipe foam insulator (below pic center) and a heat tape 25 foot made by 3M (Home Depot) (below pic Left). This method has worked several winters below zero temps.......
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Been using the foam of a couple of years but reading the above post means a trip to HD and get some of that tape to add to the mix. I keep a couple of the insulated faucet covers as well and have wraped the sites exposed water line more than once. Got cought in a bad freeze two years ago so I have added a safety caged shop light with 75w heavy duty bulbs to the water and sewer compartment. I hang them above the water lines for extra safety.
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Stan, Shirley & 2 Schnauzers
RV's: 2011 Vista 26P & '65 Mustang
Tsgt, USAF, Retired
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09-09-2011, 04:12 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 953
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There are several commercially available market products for winter freeze proof hoses similar to the one below.
Order Yours Today - No Freeze Water Hose
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Fleetwood Providence 2008 40e
Ford F-350 4x4 Diesel 6.0L 2006
Honda CR-V 2006
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09-09-2011, 04:41 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 953
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Fleetwood Providence 2008 40e
Ford F-350 4x4 Diesel 6.0L 2006
Honda CR-V 2006
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09-09-2011, 04:56 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,386
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If we are in an area that requires heat tape or heated hoses...it's time to move farther south...we don't own any of that stuff, and don't want any.
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2009 Amer Coach Allegiance 40X With Spartan Chassis
400 HP Cummins ISL
Pulling a Honda CRV
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09-09-2011, 07:46 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Tempe, AZ
Posts: 1,184
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One advantage to using pipe insulation is it will also keep the sun from heating up the water in the hoses.
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09-10-2011, 06:31 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Full Timer - Sioux Falls, SD
Posts: 1,937
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cat320
If we are in an area that requires heat tape or heated hoses...it's time to move farther south...we don't own any of that stuff, and don't want any. 
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I sure agree with that.
Unfortunately we have had several family emergencies over the years that have forced us to spend some time in winter weather. Sure didn't and still don't like it.
I had a hip replacement on Sept 1st in Grand junction CO (one of the best hospitals in the country for joint replacements) and can't leave here for AZ until about the 1st of Dec. It's going to be cold here by then so the heated hose is already connected.
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Clay WA5NMR - Fulltiming- 2004 Winnebago Sightseer 35N Workhorse chassis. Honda Accord toad.
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12-26-2011, 07:29 PM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Puyallup, Wa
Posts: 8
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I had posted the question on what to use when I signed up in the New Member Introduction(?) section and got a lot of info.
This is what I discovered. I watched a video link of a member here that was excelent but had one large flaw. In the video they were weatherizing the hose for a motorhome. They first wrapped the hose with foil to distribute the heat around the hose, (also stated on the heat tape instructions as an option) then laid the heat tape and the hose into the foam isulation and pulled the plastic strips to seal it. I followed the video to do my TT but it showed the thermostat hanging outside of the foam to the air. I used a rubber pipe insulator instead of foam but I found with the thermostat on the outside and air temps not getting above 40 for a weekend the heat tape was on all the time and got the water too hot to hold my hand under until it finally ran all the water through. By putting the thermostat against the hose you keep the water between 35 and 45 degrees no matter what. I mentioned TT vs motorhome because with a TT you must get as close to the same length heat tape as your hose. I could not find the same length hose and heat tape that I needed, 25' hose, 24' heat tape, but I ran the insulation all the way down and that helped.
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12-26-2011, 07:56 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner Damon Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 8,078
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An advantage of pipe insulaton or even "Fun noodles" is this:
Where as that frost proof hose has one BIG!!! price tag (As I recall it has 3 digits left of the decimal) heat tape plus pipe insulation, or fun noodles, adds less than 25 bucks to the cost of the hose.. My rope lights are in the under 20 league.
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Home is where I park it!
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12-26-2011, 08:03 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 4,293
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustang652
Been using the foam of a couple of years but reading the above post means a trip to HD and get some of that tape to add to the mix. I keep a couple of the insulated faucet covers as well and have wraped the sites exposed water line more than once. Got cought in a bad freeze two years ago so I have added a safety caged shop light with 75w heavy duty bulbs to the water and sewer compartment. I hang them above the water lines for extra safety.
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I use a 100 watt bulb in an alum reflector for many years now in the wet bay. However, I found a 200 watt heater with a fan at Wal*Mart. I'm going to connect it to a temp sensing plug in that turns on at some temp (forgot what temp now) above freezing and stays on till it reaches 40° or so. The 100 watt bulb is on all the time, the heater will only come on at lower temps and save some elec.
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2002 Newmar Dutch Star 4090 ISC 350/1050 with Banks Kit, now 435/1200
Charter Good Sam Lifetime Member, FMCA f47302s
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life Member
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12-28-2011, 11:46 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Batman_777
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This is the one i bought this season. I had to return my 1st one as it froze  . Got my 2nd one home and it has been working good. The thermostat is at the tip where you plug into your motorhome, if you have a motorhome where that conection is in the bay you will have to get a extention hose so the thermostat is out in the weather.
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