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Old 07-17-2011, 08:46 AM   #29
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Funny you should mention magna shades Senior Chief, recently got a quote for the windshield on our bounder. Although a good price just a little bit steep right now so got some reflectix ready to go in the windshield,as it seems to be the next best thing to a tailored shade.
I just bought yardage of the sunshade material here.
Cost about $100 for enough to do windshield, all drivers side windows and rear window.

I'm going to sew the shades myself, and try using neodymium magnets glued to the inside of the glass, and the same magnets sewed into the shades for the "magnetic" hold. I'd certainly prefer a "no-ladder" method.

I think it will work; I can certainly experiment until I find the right fastening system.
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Old 07-17-2011, 10:35 AM   #30
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I like roof air conditioners better than basement, hot air is lighter than cool air so I like having the air conditioner up where the hot air is. We just finished a vacation and during that time had some very warm weather to deal with- 105 to 107 heat index temps, and with both air conditioners running we stayed cool inside, and that's with a 30 amp unit. Both of our units will run at the same time with 30 amp wiring. We had to run our water heater on gas after finding out the circuit breaker at the post would trip after running everything on electric for about 8 hours! I like the idea of trimming the air vent covers to increase the efficiency of the air flow, I'll have to check out our air vent covers and see how far they stick up into the ducts. One thing we found out was we have 2 duct vents in the area of the main area thermostat and they were blowing at the thermostat, our main area air conditioner kept cycling on and off for very short periods, once I closed those duct vents the main air stayed on.
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Old 07-17-2011, 11:02 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Senior Chief View Post
I just bought yardage of the sunshade material here.
Cost about $100 for enough to do windshield, all drivers side windows and rear window.

I'm going to sew the shades myself, and try using neodymium magnets glued to the inside of the glass, and the same magnets sewed into the shades for the "magnetic" hold. I'd certainly prefer a "no-ladder" method.

I think it will work; I can certainly experiment until I find the right fastening system.

Which product did you purchase? Are you installing inside or outside? Thanks..........ronspradley
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Old 07-17-2011, 11:16 AM   #32
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One thing no one mentioned is have your freon or R22 checked. Mine was low and only blew out cool air. Now it's fine.
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Old 07-17-2011, 11:19 AM   #33
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Which product did you purchase? Are you installing inside or outside? Thanks..........ronspradley
We got the Textilene 90 in beige to match the coach- we measured the various windows and bought different widths to get the best usage of the yardage. Its like a heavy plastic coated window screen- very much like the "pet proof" window screen we bought for the door.

These will go on the outside; we glued magnets to the inside of the window. Wife sewed the first one for the living room window with pockets for the magnets and some little open bottom "pouches" to hold the tips of the fiberglass sticks we'll use to raise and attach the shade from the ground.

We used half-inch round neodymium magnets, which appear to hold adequately but I think we'll go to larger/stronger ones
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Old 07-17-2011, 11:20 AM   #34
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Our motorhome stays cool inside during the hottest weather if we put on our front window screens, use all the awnings, and have 50 amps power to run all three top air units. It helps that the top of our coach is white, and we have r20 installation in the roof. You might contact an tv renovator and ask if they can add insulation to yours. Also bus coat on the roof will help.
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Old 07-17-2011, 12:04 PM   #35
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Hey all,

So another thing we learned in our shakedown trip before we FT, is that our 2 AC units (one of them brand spanking new) couldn't really manage to keep up in the Southern heat. It ended up being just as hot & sticky in our coach, as it was outside. (we didn't cook inside, we vented when we took our lukewarm showers & generally tried to avoid creating extra heat) Now, we weren't really expecting that we would get the RV down to 70 when it was 95 outside, but the AC units ran constantly, and would only shut off if we pushed it above 80. 80+ is just too hot when you have animals (and for us)!

We've read mods about a floor AC unit, window unit, etc which will be challenging as we are already 30 amp - but then we've also read about Newmar that has a better air flow system.

Does anyone spend hot summers in their RV & if so, what do you have & what do you do? Does Newmar really have a good AC setup? Anyone else in the industry? Is anyone nice & cool when it's 95 out?

We won't always have the option of following the weather due to contracts, and this is giving us some pause as to the viability of RV living - two weeks was long to be hot & sweaty, I can't imagine 3-4 months!

Thanks for any input!
I find the mh a/c's to be almost useless when its really hot and you can find no shade. The so called ducted air from the ceiling is really weak. Tried once to live (for a short time) in Lake Havasu Az during the summer we had to "get out o Dodge in a hurry. I suppose the secret might be find some shade. But I have found that quite impossible in most rv parks..
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Old 07-20-2011, 12:20 AM   #36
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I find the mh a/c's to be almost useless when its really hot and you can find no shade. The so called ducted air from the ceiling is really weak. Tried once to live (for a short time) in Lake Havasu Az during the summer we had to "get out o Dodge in a hurry. I suppose the secret might be find some shade. But I have found that quite impossible in most rv parks..
Drove thur lake havasu today on the way to vegas 110 my dw said people are crazy to camp out here
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Old 07-20-2011, 12:44 AM   #37
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We have a 2002 Newmar DSDP with two 13.5 heat pumps, in Yuma in 90-95 heat we used one to keep cool, but we have the optional roof insulation (Polar Pack?) and dual pane windows. We can run both heat pumps on 30 amp service too although in Yuma we had 50 amps at a friends place.
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Old 07-20-2011, 11:56 AM   #38
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I usually run only 2 of the 3 roof AC that I have on my Signature, as long as the outside temps remain in the low 90's or less. If the outside temps gets above 93 or 94 I'll kick on the 3rd AC. All three of the units are 15,000 BTU. All three units running will keep the motorhome cool (70*) when the outside temps are 118* (been there done that in Vegas last summer) That was the first (and only) time that I didn't have to turn on the Aqua-Hot to have hot water for showers. The water right from the outside hookup was hot enough.
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Old 07-20-2011, 01:56 PM   #39
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Our knight does pretty well as long as we have 50 amp power.
15 front. 13 5. Rear a/c's
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Old 07-20-2011, 07:44 PM   #40
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Our Foretravel will stay reasonably cool in the hot Fla sun. Parked all awnings out, front W/S covered. Running down the road all window shades on the sun side pulled. 2 13.5 btu ducted AC's. I don't think any coach will stay real cool in direct summer sun.
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Old 07-20-2011, 09:39 PM   #41
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Triple E is the BEST insulated RV on the market. Built for Canadian winters, that means they are best against HEAT too.

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Triple E advertises their RVs as THREE season units...Check their Overview..

Triple E Recreational Vehicles - Regency C - Overview
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Old 07-21-2011, 08:25 AM   #42
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Here in Texas, it hovers around 100 every day and our 13.5K BTU unit will keep our 24' Class C at about 77 degrees. We have partial shade in the afternoon so the sun only hits the back 25% of the motorhome, plus we have Reflectix on all the windows. The A/C will run non-stop from about 9:30am until about 10:00pm. It will cycle on and off a few times throughout the night.

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