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evofxdwg · 01-01-2018, 03:27 PM

2006 Coachmen Mirada 330SL
Sitting in driveway in middle GA

This is our first night substantially below 32 (predicted low 22F).
Today I:
- drained the hot water tank
- put HW valve in bypass position
- drained freshwater tank (using waterworks panel TANK DRAIN setting).
- blew all lines with 40 psi compressed air using an adapter to the city water fitting, turning on one valve at a time for 3-4 minutes each, including toilet flusher.
- put some RV antifreeze in black tank and grey tank via toilet and sink
- leaving propane furnace on lowest thermostat setting (maybe 45 degrees)
(grey and black tanks were emptied after the last trip this fall)

I did NOT pour any RV antifreeze in the Winterize port or pump any through the pump. Wife complained last year that it took forever to purge it all. She didnt like smelling it or taking showers or washing dishes in it.

I dont believe there is enough water left in the lines to damage anything but maybe the pump. Im not sure if blowing the lines clears the pump out adequately. And im not sure where it is (is it in the heated space under the bathroom corner molding or outside?)

What say youall? Is the pump in danger of freeze damage? Should i go get some more antifreeze and complete the job?

Mr_D · 01-01-2018, 03:32 PM

Only safe if you're ABSOLUTELY sure you got all the water out of the low points.

BuzzWolfAR · 01-01-2018, 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr_D

Only safe if you're ABSOLUTELY sure you got all the water out of the low points.

I agree, but only going to low 20s and will it be above freezing during the day?

With thermostat at 45 and cabinets open, I'd chance it, then it ain't my money if I'm wrong.

Jthigh · 01-01-2018, 03:48 PM

I don’t pour antifreeze in my fresh tank but I do disconnect my inlet to my pump and suck some antifreeze into pump. Just enough to get it into the pump valves. I don’t believe blowing air into pump will get all water out. But that’s just me. I do blow out the rest of my system as you mentioned.

evofxdwg · 01-01-2018, 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BuzzWolfAR

I agree, but only going to low 20s and will it be above freezing during the day?

With thermostat at 45 and cabinets open, I'd chance it, then it ain't my money if I'm wrong.

Yep, actually revised forecast says 19F tonite, and low 20s next two nights, but high near 40F every day for next 3 days.

My theory is that the Pex pipe is resistant to damage from freezing (it is flexible). Also, I blew air for a few minutes AFTER there was no mist coming from the spickets and toilet flusher, so im fairly confident there is little or no pooling in the pipe and fittings. But not sure about the pump, if the blowing procedure clears it or most of it.

Sweetbriar · 01-01-2018, 04:02 PM

1000 miles or to the north in south eastern Virginia and have pretty much done the same for the past six winters except two things different. I also blow out the lines using the low point drain as Mr_D suggested along with at each faucet and leave the furnace off. Even set to lowest setting I would probably burn thru a tank of fuel in a week or two.

I also leave the system pressurized with 40 psi of air over the winter. If the system still has pressure come Easter I know the piping was not compromised by freezing. If your concern for the pump will keep you guess until spring just pull it and bring inside for the winter. Also you need antifreeze in each sink/shower drain to keep the water in the trap from freezing and cracking the drain.

Hugmongous · 01-01-2018, 04:03 PM

Did you pour the pink stuff into all of your "P" traps + washer if you have one? If you have a filter under the sink, you should remove it and possibly put in a bypass.. when it freezes and burst, makes a nasty mess - I know. Then again, if you keep furnace set at 45 and cabinet doors open you should be fine.

allenb12 · 01-01-2018, 04:06 PM

The problem with just air is if there is a low spot in the line the air might just go over some of the water. also any residual water will drain to that point.

When I had to winterize I always poured some down all the traps, Kitchen, bathroom sinks and shower.

cruzbill · 01-01-2018, 04:07 PM

Refrig IM (ice maker) tubing and blue solenoid valve. First thing to freeze. Unless you have a residential fridge with IM tubing inside MH.

evofxdwg · 01-01-2018, 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jthigh

I don’t pour antifreeze in my fresh tank but I do disconnect my inlet to my pump and suck some antifreeze into pump. Just enough to get it into the pump valves. I don’t believe blowing air into pump will get all water out. But that’s just me. I do blow out the rest of my system as you mentioned.

Yeah, after thinking about it, im not even sure the procedure is blowing air thru the pump based on valve settings. I will go get a gallon of RV antifreeze and suck in thru WINTERIZE suction port tonight to assure the pump is protected. I will thoroughly purge it at home next spring before the first trip.

Also, SWEETBRIAR reminded me the shower trap isnt protected since its probably not in heated space. I think the sink traps are standard design under the sinks and thus in heated area.

Better safe than sorry - Gotta go to the store!

Thanks all.

baraff · 01-01-2018, 04:43 PM

Up here on the frozen tundra I winterize with pink anti-freeze, just don't want to take a chance. It was -12ºF this morning when we woke up.
I think if you are leaving the heat on and drain down the system you'll be fine.
But if it helps you sleep better, pump in some antifreeze!

ThePowells · 01-01-2018, 05:59 PM

Mine still has all water. I have the slide pulled in, bathroom door and cabinet and cabinet under the sink are open, as is the drawer under the fridge and I completely pulled a drawer at the outside shower connection.
There is a 1500 watt oil filled radiator set at 65 (lowest) in the middle of the coach and the propane heat is on it's lowest setting. The coach is running off of the house LP tank. The gray tank is completely empty and there is antifreeze in the black tank, and both have their heaters on. There is not space in my wet bay for a heater, so I am contemplating a solution for it. Water heater is on AC.
I have been checking on the coach daily. Counter top (all temps are about) 55, The freshwater tank (25% full, bed base propped up a little) 43, back side of outside shower 45, under bathroom sink 50, under kitchen sink (near water heater and LP furnace 60. The tops of waste tanks are 45, don't remember the pad temps, but very warm, and gate valves were 15. I also turn on water pump to make sure it holds pressure in the lines.
I had antifreeze in both tanks, but I had to wash out the canisters for the S&B water filters since we have a bad sediment problem, I had to flush what was in the canisters thru to the gray tank, I just totally drained the gray tank afterwards. They have remained constant throughout this deep cold spell, including a 0100 check this morning with a 14 degree ambient temp. I may post back in the morning when I get home as then it will have been well below freezing for 48 hours.

I have the ability to put a second (or third) electric heater and am exploring future possibilities.

OP, if the coach is setting in your driveway, you have a bunch of options for future thought.
Among them are;
Install a 30/50 amp plus to provide power to the coach where you can plug up heaters inside.
Install a connection line from your home LP, or install a 100# LP tank.

I know keeping mine at that temp is overkill (Honey, our power bill went up.

..) but that is the lowest temps I can set right now, and I know that a second 1500 watt heater would allow both to set on low. If we get the garage built by next winter, the coach section will have a big honkin woodstove. One reason I want to keep the coach warm and the system wet is for power outages (already had two) and we also have a weekend trip set for four weeks and then two weeks later, going to Indiana.

OOOPS, I almost forgot. We have two heavy blankets covering the opening between the cab and coach. I'll try to remember to check a temp up there also.

keymastr · 01-01-2018, 07:15 PM

There are two kinds of pink antifreeze. One of them tastes terrible and is very hard to rinse out. The other costs a dollar more per gallon but is good to -75 rather than -50 and rinses easily. It does not make the plumbing taste bad either. The bad stuff contains ethanol, water and propylene glycol. The good stuff is pure propylene glycol. Walmart sells the good stuff under the Sta-Bil brand.

evofxdwg · 01-01-2018, 07:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ThePowells

Mine still has all water. I have the slide pulled in, bathroom door and cabinet and cabinet under the sink are open, as is the drawer under the fridge and I completely pulled a drawer at the outside shower connection.
There is a 1500 watt oil filled radiator set at 65 (lowest) in the middle of the coach and the propane heat is on it's lowest setting.........

Wow! ThePowells you have more energy than me! I had an oil filled electric heater in ours last winter but the central is broke in the house so we are using it inside. I have a garage with a highbay i built a year before we bought the motorhome but put a car lift in the way and the RV mirrors would have to be removed due to door width...dohhhh!

Keymastr i got the walmart Stabil brand accidentally before reading your post but thanks.

Just finished sucking in a gallon thru the pump and running the shower head to fill the trap. Im good to go till spring.

Some good ideas in here. Thanks again all.