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Old 04-30-2004, 01:09 PM   #1
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Hello everyone:
I've changed from a 30' TT to a
24' 5th W and I was wondering if there is a site
that may offer the sequense to a hook up of the 5thW.(If sequence misspelled please dont lough,
still learning.......many thanks!
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Old 04-30-2004, 01:09 PM   #2
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Hello everyone:
I've changed from a 30' TT to a
24' 5th W and I was wondering if there is a site
that may offer the sequense to a hook up of the 5thW.(If sequence misspelled please dont lough,
still learning.......many thanks!
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Old 04-30-2004, 05:29 PM   #3
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Until you get a system in place I suggest a checklist. Much like pilots use, a "pre-flight" .
You will find everyone has their own particular sequence. It varies from user to user.
Chet
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Old 04-30-2004, 06:12 PM   #4
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1) Set your 5er hitch to couple mode. On mine it is just removing the safety latch.
2) Lower tailgate
3) Really...lower the tailgate...again
4) Back the truck close enough to the king pin to check the height. I like to have the pin just low enough that the truck will squat just a tiny bit as the weight of the trailer comes on the fifth wheel plate.
5) Back the truck up the rest of the way to seat the king pin in the hitch. Check your hitch manufacturers to make sure you have a 'positive' connection.
6) Close the safety latch, check hitch manufactures instructions.
7) Connect the trailer plug.
8) Connect the break away cable.
9) Some will do a pull test at this point. A pull test involves raising the landing gear so that they are just off the ground, manually engaging the trailer brakes, then pulling against the locked trailer brakes to see if the king pin comes out of the hitch. I never do a pull test. With my hitch, it is obvious if the connection is good, or not, my safety latch will not close if it isn't a good 'capture'. And besides, my Power Stroke Diesel can pull the trailer with all four tires locked solid.
7) Raise the landing gear.
8) Close tailgate.
9) Close tailgate again.
10) Go about your normal pre-departure sequence you used with your TT.

A word about tail gates. There are 2 types of fiver pullers with tailgates. Those with the 'V' cut outs. And those of us who have not forgotten to raise or lower the tail gates, YET. We all will eventually become 'V' gaters. It just a matter of time.

Have fun with your 5er. Its the best platform out there.
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Old 05-01-2004, 07:49 AM   #5
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Additional suggestions:

Go through the procedure with the dealer as many as is necessary to understand it.

Make sure there is room between the lowered tailgate and the front of the trailer. On ours there is not, and it was necessary to lower the tailgate, back under the king pin far enough to clear the tailgate then raise it before backing the rest of the way to the hitch. A pain in the pa-duff, a V type tailgate fixed the problem.

Araucano, hopefully I can do as well communicating the following as you did spelling "sequence."

With you trailer in a level attitude, side to side and front to rear, place a small 2 3 inch, stick on type, level (available in most RV stores) just above the switch that operates your landing legs. This is a good time to place a larger, side-to-side, level visible from the truck cab on the front of the trailer.

Next, with the truck and trailer on level ground *** SLOWLY back under to the king pin, adjusting the height of the landing legs until there is just daylight between the top of the hitch and the lube plate and mark a second reference point over the bubble on the level, I used nail polish.

*** It maybe necessary for someone to level the hitch by holding onto the release lever. If so DO NOT back in far enough to engage the hitch and king pin as that engagement occurs the release lever flies out and in with considerable speed and force and could cause injury.

OK, now you are positioned on your site, level side to side and trailer wheels chalked front and rear. Lower the landing legs until the bubble is under the nail polish mark. If you are on a nice level concrete pad you should have the "day light" separation mention above. If not adjust the legs untill you do and make note where the bubble is relative to the mark, you'll need it when it's time to go. Unhook, pull the truck away and lower the to the factory mark, level front to rear. When it's time to go, put the bubble back to nail polish mark or "you remember where" and complete the hitch procedure, pull the chalks and you're ready to go. Sounds complicated and sure is wordy, but well worthwhile when set up.
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Old 05-01-2004, 09:43 PM   #6
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by ParFourTheCourse:
Additional suggestions:

Go through the procedure with the dealer as many as is necessary to understand it.

Make sure there is room between the lowered tailgate and the front of the trailer. On ours there is not, and it was necessary to lower the tailgate, back under the king pin far enough to clear the tailgate then raise it before backing the rest of the way to the hitch. A pain in the pa-duff, a V type tailgate fixed the problem. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Beware! A 'V' type tailgate will not always fix that problem. I've always had a V type tailgate, however, on several occasions, there was need to raise the fiver with its landing gear whereas there would be enough clearance. I learned this the hard way when putting a slight dent in the V area with the kingpin. I assume others have had experience with this finding too. Where I have had to be most careful is upon hooking up to leave the campground. More often enough, I've had to lower the fiver with the landing gear for leveling purposes after the truck has been pulled out from underneath, sometimes not so much to be noticed but can make a BIG difference when connecting up again.

Rich
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Old 05-02-2004, 03:33 AM   #7
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Rich,
If prior to backing under you:

From my original post:
"put the bubble back to nail polish mark or "you remember where"

The king pin will be back to the height that it was when you unhooked and pulled clear, and should clear the V tailgate if it did then.

I guess there could be situations where the bottom of the V is higher than the top of the hitch (that sort of defeats the purpose of a V tailgate) or the rear truck wheels pass over a hump just as the V goes under the kingpin (that'll ruin the trip home).

Mike
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Old 05-02-2004, 05:17 AM   #8
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A couple of comments regarding pull tests:

1. I would highly recommend doing a "pull test" after hitching up. All it takes is one time to get a "bad hitch" and your whole day will be ruined.

2. The trailer wheels should be chocked and the front jacks only about 1/2" off the ground when performing a pull test.

If you want a V-gate to tow your 5th wheel, that's great. They are not necessary, however. I've towed for 8 years without one and haven't dented a factory tailgate yet.

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Old 05-02-2004, 05:43 AM   #9
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Also there is a pad lock hoop on the release handle where the pin and hitch hook up, on most models of hitches, use the lock supplied or buy one for it. I noticed some teens at a rest stop one time and they grabbed the handle, luckily I saw this and told the owner when he came out of the r.r. If he would have pulled away like that he would have lost his trailer because when the handle was pulled it unlocked the pin. Always use you lock.
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Old 05-02-2004, 06:33 AM   #10
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While certainly not necessary, I am a firm believer in the V tailgate. I believe my wife should learn how to hook up and pull with the fiver in case anything should ever happen where she would need to do it in an emergency. She has gotten better at it each time and on occassion has pulled it herself to the campground for a weekend with the "girls". She still has a bit of a problem backing up, but there is usually more than enough help at campgrounds to help guide her.

Back to the V gate. I have never had the king pin hit my factory tailgate. However, I had my fiver in for servicing and couldn't get to the dealer to pick it up because of work. It was the end of summer and we were going to store it. I had taken the V gate off and reinstalled the factory tailgate. My wife went to pick the trailer up. Getting late and the sun no longer high in the sky she backed up to hitch the trailr. Tailgate down, she came in at a slight angle and put the corner of the tailgate right into the front compartment door on the fiver.

Moral is: There is more than one way for that factory tailgate to get you...

btw...I would love to be able to get on her about it, but If I try she always brings up the time we were in a hurry to get somewhere, I pulled into the driveway because we forgot something and jumped out of the van forgetting to put it into park. The van took off right at my beloved power stroke dually. She was sitting in the passenger side buckled in with a hot drink in her hand and couldn't move. I dove into the van and turned the wheel to keep from hitting the truck. The result? I drove it into the side of her car. I now must remain silent for eternity...
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Old 05-02-2004, 08:48 AM   #11
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by kerfcutter:
The result? I drove it into the side of her car. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Hey, what guy wouldn't sacrifice the wifey's ride to save his beloved dually diesel!
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Old 05-03-2004, 07:26 AM   #12
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Hey Kerfcutter - Remind me not to park near you man. LOL !
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Old 08-05-2005, 07:02 AM   #13
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I have wheels on my landing gear of my fiver, would I need to raise it when doing a pull test?
I am new to this, and am going for my first trip this saturday for three days.
I am starting from scratch.
I will be hooking up tonight and leave tomorrow, so all practise will be then.
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Old 08-05-2005, 08:04 AM   #14
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Partsman01:

You have wheels on the landing gear!

Never heard of it nor seen it! I guess you must use VERY EFFICIENT wheel chocks.

What is the purpose of those wheels?

Don't mean to sound smart, it's just that I can see tons of problems with that set-up.

Bob
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