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Old 11-14-2017, 11:43 AM   #15
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If I use portable panels I can run 8 ga if I want to, only restrictions will be if I can get a ring terminal from 8 ga to the small controller post size. I'm actually hook up an Anderson plug setup. From the controller to the outside of the coach is less than 2 ft.

Numerous possibilities.
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Old 11-14-2017, 01:51 PM   #16
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I don't see a problem in short (20 feet or less) #10 wire runs. Typically, panels used on 12 volt systems run around 20 volts open circuit. Controller holds at 14.6 or less depending on battery SOC.
A couple 100 watt panels will only yield about 10 amps so the voltage drop is less than a 2/10 of a volt in a 20 foot wire run. Not something to be concerned about.
Enjoy your solar. It is worth the investment.
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Old 11-14-2017, 02:08 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wanderer23 View Post
Really confused now. Contacted American Coach and was advised the coach originally had only a 95w solar panel.
System has a 20 amp controller, 2000 watt inverter/charger/ remote controls, auto generator start all factory installed and only 95 watts?

What have I missed here? I thought I could easily install 300 watts which would only produce about 17 amps.

Expertise needed please.

Thanks
Being confused is natural at this stage unless you are an EE Electrical Engineer. That is why I included the links in my comment. 600 watts of solar and 400+ amps of storage (battery) works for a lot of people. But as you add appliances, more may be needed. I have a full time friend with a 4 door electric fridge and 1700 watts on the roof. He also has Lithium batteries. He can run his Air Conditioner for 2+ hours on his system. There are a lot of possibilities. But before you spend your money, do you homework and decide what you want to end up with, then start working towards your goal. Of all my suggested links, I'd recommend this one as a starting point.
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Old 11-14-2017, 03:39 PM   #18
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I've heard good things about Starlight as well as AM Solar in Oregon. Zamp solar offered some good advise over the phone. Great place to start is to call one of these places and discuss your needs. This eliminates a great deal of unnecessary information and reduces the level of confusion. Oregon has no sales tax and installers are in the off season until late spring.

Don't sweat the #10 wire, it will be easy enough to pull through #4 or #6 to accommodate a larger array.

An important thing to know is your estimated power consumption, you're at an advantage with the RV refrigerator. It will use some propane but won't kill your batteries. Knowing you battery capacity will help you determine the size of the array and ultimately the optimum charge rate for the batteries.

Portable units tend to be lower quality in addition to requiring some set up and break down effort. I would consider a 320w system to be the absolute minimum to provide any meaningful benefit. 480-640 would provide a moderate amount of charging capability. There is a saying that goes something like this, " there are two types of people, those that don't have solar and those who want more".

As mentioned sun exposure is critical. If you park in the shade roof mounted panels won't be effective and you may spend a great deal of time chasing the sun with portable ones.

We don't have panels on the coach yet, other than a 20w maintainer, but i have done a fair amount of research. We have had a 2.85kw system with battery backup on the house for the past 6 years. We'll probably go with a roof mounted 640w array on the coach in the next year or two.
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Old 11-14-2017, 04:32 PM   #19
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When I went to the Morningstar site and ran their string application with both Grape and Renogy 100w panels it worked out that the controller could only handle 300w as optimum. When I added a 4th panel to the equation it stated I exceeded the capabilities of the 20 amp controller.

That's why I was looking towards 3 panels. My question is why the factory system seems setup for no higher than 95 watts?

The one panel I used in the app worked out to be 5.71 amps and I figured 3 panels had me safely under the 20 amp threshold easily.

I don't need them immediately, so I have plenty of time to figure something out. Not to mention setting up the remote control system for all battery functions.

Lucky me.................:-))
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Old 11-14-2017, 05:06 PM   #20
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What is the Catastrophe fuse and where is it located or installed? Followed ByeTheWay link to RV Electrical and it states its a must. I must check if it has one already...or not.

Can't wait to get coach back home from dealer after repairs. Lots to look at and try to understand in my system.
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Old 11-14-2017, 05:09 PM   #21
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Oversubscription of a controller can be done, within reason. Flat mounted panels will produce 15-50% of rated output, depending on lattitude and time of year. Also depends on what the controller does if presented with excess current - some handle it gracefully and dump it, others don't handle it with resulting damage.
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