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Old 02-12-2016, 11:32 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Traps90 View Post
Every truck stop in Montana will have an AntiGel additive that you can add to your tank. As long as I could have the generator running I would just plug in the coach for the night. Especially with these new engines and DPF systems.
I was Talking about my Truck, Anti Gel works well, but not as good as circulating warm Diesel Fuel, if I had the number of the fellow parked next to me on my last trip that had the gelling issue after adding the recommended amount I would pass it on....

2005 Newmar DS 4023, Spartan Chassis, ISL 370 Cumapart, 2008 Jeep Rubicon 4dr, 2015 Kia Soul, 1969 Italian & 2004 Akita
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Old 02-13-2016, 11:33 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by twinboat View Post
You could look at the construction industry or municipalities.

They leave construction equipment on site or stored for months at a time.

Look at " Gold Rush ". Do you think someone runs up to the Yukon every month, all winter, to start the machines.

Northern municipalities park street sweepers, grass cutting and beach equipment all winter long.

Come spring the snow removing equipment gets stored.

Boats up north are hauled out of the water. They can't be started.

Look at all the stored MHs in the Keys. Nobody is starting them.

Like someone else said, it's your stuff, treat it like you want. I don't think there is any benefit to doing it, except piece of mind that it still works. Until it don't.

I thought about this too, perhaps it is a cost vs benefit thing?

There are additives that can be sprayed in the intake while the engine is running to protect the top end of the engine during a long storage period, but that does nothing for the bottom end. IMHO, the only real answer to that is a pre-lube kit. I'm a little surprised these aren't offered on RVs.


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Old 02-13-2016, 12:36 PM   #31
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I found this on the internet so take it for what it's worth.

Protect Against Rust and Corrosion

Even in a perfectly sealed engine with pure fuel, water will get into the engine and condensate on engine parts. How? For every gallon of gasoline that is burned, a little over a gallon of water is formed as a by-product. Since the formation of this water vapor is part of normal engine operation, it is part of the oil's job to prevent rust.

The engine is open to another form of corrosion, too. When the oil becomes contaminated with soot particles from the combustion process and is heated beyond a certain point, it turns from its normal alkaline state to an acidic state. This acid can attack the metal engine parts and cause corrosion unless neutralized quickly.

Factors Affecting Oil Performance

The way you drive has a big affect motor oil performance. Repeated cold starts can cause excessive fuel dilution. Short trips around town can lead to abnormal water accumulation. Unless the engine reaches its ideal operating temperature, these volatile contaminates are left to attack engine parts instead of being burned off by engine heat. Even after the engine has reached normal operating temperature, it takes a while for the engine to recover from the abuse of this type of driving.
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Old 02-13-2016, 06:23 PM   #32
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I'd be inclined to start it once a month for the purpose, if nothing else, of getting some oil sloshing around & up to the top of the engine. Don't need to let it up to temp for that.

Another point that boaters think of, maybe RVers do not, is your fuel tank full? Nice that the Stabil is in there but partially full tanks attract condensation with the change of temps. Once formed that water goes to the bottom of the tank where it stays. The less air in the tank the better during periods of storage.

Upon reading Twinboat's post, something else comes to mind regarding oil. Before putting an engine into storage, change the oil. For reasons given it is much better to have fresh oil in it for its winter hibernation. One less thing to think about come spring.

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