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Old 10-14-2019, 10:30 AM   #1
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Storing RV from November - March

Hello all,
So I have a Class A and are wondering about others opinions on the best way to store the coach during prolonged times on non-use. I keep the coach on my farm in Maryland in an enclosed barn and do have full 50amp service available and want to be sure to avoid any issues with interior mold, etc.

Typically I keep a few moisture absorption buckets in the coach and keep all windows, and vents closed, with no HVAC systems running. Is this what most do when they don't plan on using the coach during the winter months?

Also, I do winterize systems by draining all water lines and filling toilet a sink traps with anti-freeze.

Thanks.
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Old 10-14-2019, 04:28 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Iceking69 View Post
Hello all,
So I have a Class A and are wondering about others opinions on the best way to store the coach during prolonged times on non-use. I keep the coach on my farm in Maryland in an enclosed barn and do have full 50amp service available and want to be sure to avoid any issues with interior mold, etc.

Typically I keep a few moisture absorption buckets in the coach and keep all windows, and vents closed, with no HVAC systems running. Is this what most do when they don't plan on using the coach during the winter months?

Also, I do winterize systems by draining all water lines and filling toilet a sink traps with anti-freeze.

Thanks.
Spray everything down with concrobium, and let it dry. If you have it connected to a shoreline: Install an electric dehumidifier on your kitchen counter, set it to 50%, install the external drain on the side and have the discharge drip into your sink drain.

Spray your tires and everything made of vinyl or rubber with 303 Aerospace Protectant.

Drain your lines and add RV safe antifreeze to your system.


Put a sufficiently sized trickle charger on your start batteries and another one on your house batteries. Be sure to get the voltages correct.
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Old 10-14-2019, 05:28 PM   #3
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Wont putting water down the sink drain fill up the grey tank. He has freezing issues. Any water in the grey tank will freeze and break his valves or crack his tank. I store mine all winter in a barn. I don't do anything except winterize it, and remove the batteries. If you can plug yours in occasionally to keep the batteries charged, they should be fine.
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Old 10-15-2019, 11:41 AM   #4
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Thanks all. I decided to order a Caframo Stor-Dry Warm Air Circulator and will let that run all winter in addition to keeping batteries on trickle charge thru battery charger/maintainer and winterizing all wet systems. Will also consider spraying down tires and interior as suggested. Thanks.
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Old 10-15-2019, 12:13 PM   #5
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I leave ours plugged in, 50 amp. Parked inside. I check the batteries and start the generator every 2-3 weeks, open garage doors. And, I have a couple of space heaters set inside with one in the water bay, insulated basement. I winterize the plumping with pink.
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Old 10-15-2019, 12:32 PM   #6
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I live in Maryland also, my coach is kept inside a pole barn plugged into 30 amp. I winterize RV, keep side window and roof vent open all winter.

AND
*mouse traps
*levelers down
*slides open 2"

This has worked fine for me for over 30 years, never a mold problem.
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Old 10-15-2019, 02:08 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winniman View Post
Wont putting water down the sink drain fill up the grey tank. He has freezing issues. Any water in the grey tank will freeze and break his valves or crack his tank. I store mine all winter in a barn. I don't do anything except winterize it, and remove the batteries. If you can plug yours in occasionally to keep the batteries charged, they should be fine.
The power used by the dehumidifier stirs the air, warms it, senses the humidity and either turns on the compressor or shuts off - depending on the humidity measurement. It does this sampling measurement every hour or so and if the humidity is above the set limit it energizes the compressor and dehumidifies the air. If the discharge goes into the sink drain, and the sink drain had winterizer in it and the grey tank (both), nothing will freeze.

If he lives in an extremely cold climate then the same effect can be achieved by adding a pot or a milk jug sitting in the sink, filled with antifreeze, and have the dehumidifier discharge into the pot/jug. The pot/jug will overflow into the sink drain, but it will have blended with antifreeze and not freeze.

If you generate so much humidity that you risk filling your grey tank, then I recommend you leave the grey valve open at the drain and let the dripping humidity/antifreeze discharge drain out onto the ground or into an exterior catch basin.

Most places that are that cold don't have humidity problems. Humidity freezes as water crystals in severe climates and typically doesn't enter things being stored, so the initial challenge is to get the existing humidity removed to prevent mold from using it for metabolism. Once the coach is dried out, the amount of moisture and humidity should remain relatively low, meaning the air sampling will not generate much of a water discharge through the dehumidifier pipe after a week or so.
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Old 10-15-2019, 02:14 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hayward3411 View Post
I live in Maryland also, my coach is kept inside a pole barn plugged into 30 amp. I winterize RV, keep side window and roof vent open all winter.

AND
*mouse traps
*levelers down
*slides open 2"

This has worked fine for me for over 30 years, never a mold problem.
Im not sure why you would open your slides two inches. The slide seals don't seal. This might create a possible entry point for mice. I have never had any moisture problems in my rvs. They are stored in a barn if I don't go south. Never have needed to leave windows open, or put dehumidifiers in there. Maybe different elsewhere, but never had a problem in Ontario.
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