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Old 02-23-2014, 05:48 PM   #29
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Just to clarify a couple of things discussed here.

Do not waste your money on s SURGE PROTECTOR. Do buy ENERGY MANAGEMENT DEVICE. They are both available. The Progressive Industries devices mentioned are the later. They protect against high or low voltage, open ground or neutral, and surge.

A RV 50A circuit does have 2 power feeds each capable of 50A. Therefore, the RV would have 100A available. It would also have both 120V and 240V. A 30A circuit only had 30A total as it only has 1 power feed.
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Old 05-12-2014, 06:40 PM   #30
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Surgeguard 34750 Failed!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr4Film View Post
If it were me, I would, I did and here's why.

Long before I was totally educated on pedestal EMS units I first had the TRC Portable 50 amp EMS model 34750 purchased from Camping World. Once I learned the differences between the TRC units and the PI units, I sold my TRC unit on eBay and purchased the Progressive Industries EMS unit HW-50C with two remotes.

I have been completely satisfied with the change.

Here's what I learned about the differences. Electronically they are quite similar for checking the quality of the power. However, where the HW-50C shines over the TRC unit is in reaction time for dropped neutrals and power surges. Also it comes with a LIFETIME warranty on the UNIT not the original owner. It is field serviceable and repairable whereas with the TRC unit you have to send the entire TRC unit in for warranty work only, they are NOT repairable. Oh BTW, if the TRC unit is out of warranty, tough luck, because you can't repair them, you have to purchase another entire unit.

Customer service AND Technical Service at Progressive Industries is paramount over TRC. They will take calls and return calls 24/7. Most of the time it will be Tom Fanelli who is the president returning your call.

I would not use anything else in my RV except for the PI-EMS units.

If you have ANY plans to possibly upgrade to a 50 amp RV in the future, I would invest in the 50 amp version which will work fine on 30 amp service too.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
You did the right thing! I had a a Surgeguard 37450 when I connected to my 50 amp shore power in my pole barn, I heard a click and then wouldn't turn on. After calling TRC group several times I was finally able to speak to live human. He suggested I connect the 37450 by itself to see if it will correct itself. When I did that the delayed light kept flashing gave me a hope that it may work. Bu it was short lived. After that, it started to make strange noises. I was told by the TRC tech if that didn't work it needs replacing. So, I ended up ordering an EMS unit HW-50C Learned the hard way! I will use the pigtail plug to make a plug inside the electric bay in my 05 Essex. I hope it will fit.
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Old 11-19-2014, 07:30 AM   #31
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Many years ago I stayed at a new campground and fried stuff in my camper. I went to the office and told them they most likely had 120 volts on that leg. They checked. They did. They paid for my ruined items. When I bought my current class A, I read about PI protectors, purchased one, and will never be without it. Jerry
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Old 11-19-2014, 02:06 PM   #32
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I love it when folks argue about "Is it 50 amps or is it 100 amps because they add"

It is 50 amps at 240 volts divided, Or rather that is what is supposed to be, If it is 100 amps (both legs the same zero volts leg to leg) It is NOT PROPER.

Why do this: Well basically if the "House" is properly balanced you use each amp twice, once comming as it were and once going. And the neutral wire carries nothign.

So imagine that between you and the power transformer is a 5volt drop. on each leg.

coming off the transformer to your RV what voltage will your plug in volt meter read.

Some folks will say 115 (Since it is a five volt drop) and that is true if the system is properly balanced, but let's say you loose the other leg.
The drop now 5 volts transformer to RV and another 5 going back so the meter drops to 110 volts.. Yup double the drop

Where did that drop go when we were balanced, The other leg of course

The total round trip drop is still 10 volts, but since the proper hookup is 240 volts divided, that 10 volt drop became 130 volts divided or 115 volt per leg. That simple.

Saves on wire.

But confuses the blazes out of folks who do not understand it.
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Old 11-19-2014, 02:10 PM   #33
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Now to answer the O/P's question.. I have never had a low voltage (or high voltage) problem on 50 amps. BUT.... And this is a biggie.

IN the last 3 months I've had at least that many "Power flickers" where something happens down the road and power is lost for just a few seconds as the grid re-routes power back to us via a different path.

Two thigns really tear up Air Conditioner compressors,, ONE is low voltage (like less than 105 volts) The surge guard will shut you down if that happens.

The other is a "Hot start" That is turning it off and right back on, The surge guard I have times something like 170 seconds (Nearly 3 full minutes) might be longer (it counts up, wish it counted down) thus holding power off the RV long enough for the head pressure to bleed off on the Air Conditioners and make it a "Cold" start instead of a hot start.

Can easily save your a early A/C replacement.
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Old 11-20-2014, 06:17 AM   #34
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Just read what I had written in #31. Of course I meant 240 volts. Also of course, you readers knew what I meant. Sorry if I confused anyone.
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