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Old 01-10-2018, 06:47 AM   #1
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Surviving on 30 Amp Power Only?

I will be attending the Tampa RV Supershow this year again, but with a different motorhome. I knew what I could run or not run with my past Tiffin, but the new Newmar has some different equipment. The two main differences are I now have a residential refrigerator and I have heat pumps now.

At the last two trips to Tampa I would immediately set the refrigerator and water heater to propane. I would also make sure the A/C was off when using anything else like the microwave, convection oven or the wife using her hair dryer. How will the RR affect this?

Also in the past I did not have to worry about heat, but this year it is to get into the low 40's a few nights. Before I would only run one A/C at a time and switch from the L/R one to the B/R one at night. Will the heat pumps work the same way?

Another concern is the slide operation on the Newmar. I have to be plugged in to operate them. Will the 30 Amp handle this OK or will I need to run my generator?

Also how much power does the water pump run? Will I need to shut off something when using it?

Plus what would I do with the coffee pot? I am sure I will not be running the A/C, but with the mornings being cold what about the heat pumps? My front furnace will not work, so I can't use it.
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Old 01-10-2018, 07:11 AM   #2
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...don't know how your new rig is equipped--many newer rigs have energy mgt systems that auto-shed load as needed. Regardless, you are over thinking this. Agree, on 50 amp service [actually 100 amps avail], you can run literally everything. On 30 amp service you only have 30 amps total. So on 30 amps, the general rule is that you can maybe run 2 a/c units and little else; or 1 a/c unit and most every thing else. Most of what you mentioned don't require much power. Typical large power hogs are water heater, inverter charger setting, and things like hair dryers, or microwaves, etc. R/R fridges, water pumps, lights, TVs don't add much to the total....I am sure others will have more/different advice...
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Old 01-10-2018, 07:26 AM   #3
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As Old Scout said, in my rig with 30amp service, I can run the one A/C and all other appliances with no problems. The only time we have tripped a breaker was when my wife was making coffee and fired up the old hair dryer.

Happy trails!

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Old 01-10-2018, 08:05 AM   #4
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If you have a 20 amp at the power pedestal, run 1 or 2 14 ga or short 16 in one of your windows to power a small heater. If you have slide windows, put foam insulation to fill the crack for the wire, I use $2 pipe insulation left over from insulating my hose. This will allow you to have at least 50 amps in the camper without maxing out your 30 plug and burning the contacts.
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Old 01-10-2018, 08:27 AM   #5
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30 amps will run the slide.. 10 amps will run the slide.
Your plan is good otherwise.

OH the furnace (NOT HEAT PUMPS) also can survive nicely on just a few amps of 120vac Like 3 or 5 it is a 12 volt item.
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Old 01-10-2018, 08:49 AM   #6
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With 30 amps use the two rule. Two heavy use items, hair dryer, micro, AC, water heater, refer. Worst case you will pop a breaker. Most times any 12 volts items, lights, water pump, furnace won't make a difference. Watch the high use times as those around you are using a lot of power too. As usage go's up voltage goes down and amp draw goes up using the same appliance. IE; 1500 watt hair dryer at 120 volts draws about 12.5 amps, same at 110 is 13.6 not much but adds up. Also low voltage can harm the AC units. This summer at the eclipse voltage dropped to the 105 mark so I ran the Gen for a couple hours in the afternoon during high demand, others didn't and the AC's were fine. But I was safe. Take a look at you manual you may have a system that sheds power use items to keep you in the available power range. HAVE fun.

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Old 01-10-2018, 09:03 AM   #7
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I ran an extra cord out the bottom of the basement to run my residential refrigerator, freezer and convertor. In the back of the 5er I ran another cord out the bottom of the slide to power a space heater, etc. Then I'm free run both ac's. Both these cords are well hidden but sure come in handy!
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Old 01-10-2018, 09:13 AM   #8
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You’ll have a drop cord running behind a row of coaches with multiple outlets all attached to a rather huge portable generator. Last year the generator shut down for a while...so we had to fire up the genset in the middle of the day to run an air conditioner for a little while.

If you opted for the Energy Mgmt system from Precision Circuits..it autodetects, and auto sheds up to six loads to keep you from having a nuisance trip. With it running...it will actually stage the startup of Your a/c units providing there is enough overhead to add additional load. If you do not...then you are the energy mgmt system. Safer to run one air conditioner, and one electric hot water element, or one of those, and a microwave...etc... you just can’t throw three items all on at once. If you overload it...it will trip a breaker to let you know.

The slide motors work off of 12vdc. Your batteries should be up around 13.3v or more while connected to the 30 amp outlet while float charging..even higher if in bulk or absorb. It won’t be a problem...you might just forgo the air conditioner, hot water, etc...until your slides are out...because the charger will cutout if the Inverter panel loads are high. It will first pass thru as much shore power to your sub panel loads...then when those are met...take care of the batteries.

These things work fine on 30amps... If you have eight batteries...you won’t even notice a power outage most of the time. The Inverter will power most of the items.
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Old 01-10-2018, 10:34 AM   #9
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Quote:
At the last two trips to Tampa I would immediately set the refrigerator and water heater to propane. I would also make sure the A/C was off when using anything else like the microwave, convection oven or the wife using her hair dryer. How will the RR affect this?
Very little. The fridge draws about 1.5-2.0 amps except for an occasional defrost cycle or when the ice maker is dumping the cubes from its tray. Turn the ice maker off once you arrive for avoid that brief peak (about +4A for a minute or two).


Quote:
Also in the past I did not have to worry about heat, but this year it is to get into the low 40's a few nights. Before I would only run one A/C at a time and switch from the L/R one to the B/R one at night. Will the heat pumps work the same way?
Yes. The amp draw is about the same as a vanilla a/c unit, and heating doesn't use any more (or less) amps than cooling. The only concern is running the heat pump at the same time as another high-amp device.

Quote:
Another concern is the slide operation on the Newmar. I have to be plugged in to operate them. Will the 30 Amp handle this OK or will I need to run my generator?
Actually, the slides are powered from the chassis batteries and you are supposed to have the engine running. If the dealer told you shore power, I'm confident you will find he is wrong. See your owner manual or ask Newmar to verify that. In any case, the 120vac amps convert to DC amps at the rate of 1:10, so a 30A DC draw for the slide motor would be only 3A from shore power. It would be "no problem".
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Old 01-10-2018, 01:16 PM   #10
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Very little.
Actually, the slides are powered from the chassis batteries and you are supposed to have the engine running. If the dealer told you shore power, I'm confident you will find he is wrong. See your owner manual or ask Newmar to verify that. In any case, the 120vac amps convert to DC amps at the rate of 1:10, so a 30A DC draw for the slide motor would be only 3A from shore power. It would be "no problem".

My slides won't move if the ignition key is on or the drivers seat isn't full forward.

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Old 01-10-2018, 02:02 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer View Post
Very little. The fridge draws about 1.5-2.0 amps except for an occasional defrost cycle or when the ice maker is dumping the cubes from its tray. Turn the ice maker off once you arrive for avoid that brief peak (about +4A for a minute or two).


Yes. The amp draw is about the same as a vanilla a/c unit, and heating doesn't use any more (or less) amps than cooling. The only concern is running the heat pump at the same time as another high-amp device.

Actually, the slides are powered from the chassis batteries and you are supposed to have the engine running. If the dealer told you shore power, I'm confident you will find he is wrong. See your owner manual or ask Newmar to verify that. In any case, the 120vac amps convert to DC amps at the rate of 1:10, so a 30A DC draw for the slide motor would be only 3A from shore power. It would be "no problem".
The procedure with my Newmar Ventana LE is to either have shore power or the generator running while moving the slides in or out.
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Old 01-10-2018, 05:42 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer View Post

Actually, the slides are powered from the chassis batteries and you are supposed to have the engine running. If the dealer told you shore power, I'm confident you will find he is wrong. See your owner manual or ask Newmar to verify that. In any case, the 120vac amps convert to DC amps at the rate of 1:10, so a 30A DC draw for the slide motor would be only 3A from shore power. It would be "no problem".
Yeah,,,no not so much the chassis batteries...

Attached is the diagram of the rear of the electrical cord bay distribution wiring. Ventana and Ventana LE.

The slide motors are powered from the House batteries...thru the salesman switch relay refered to as “disconnect battery power” ...breakers B4-B7.

If the bi-directional relay is closed...then the alternator could possibly be linked to this distribution wiring IF all conditions for closing the relay are met. But...the slide motors are locked out with the ignition ON...so that could never work. No chance of the Ventana slide motors working off the chassis batteries.

To follow the power...the Genset or Shore power goes from the transfer switch...to the 50A MAIN in the ac power distribution panel...feeds the Inverter thru a 30A Inverter breaker...the Inverter powers the charger...the charger feeds the 3/0 dc power cable thru a 350A catastrophic fuse to the house batteries...from there...I believe it’s a 2/0 wire from the batteries thru a 150A catastrophic fuse, back to the power cord reel bay locking relay (controlled by the salesman switch). I believe it enters the right terminal..,and if the relay is closed...exits the left terminal and goes to B4-B7 breakers and from there onto the slide motors.
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Old 01-10-2018, 10:16 PM   #13
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Coffee pot? Get a stovetop perculator. It makes better coffee anyway.
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Old 01-10-2018, 10:33 PM   #14
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The procedure with my Newmar Ventana LE is to either have shore power or the generator running while moving the slides in or out.
I have learned to run the generator when setting up also. Makes everything run at peak performance. My slides are mostly hydraulic but the bed room is electric.

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