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Old 10-22-2015, 08:16 AM   #29
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I don't understand why anybody would pay $100 or more just so the RV shop would be responsible for any freeze damage that might occur. I have never heard of anybody having freeze damage after winterizing their own rig.

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Old 10-22-2015, 08:40 AM   #30
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[QUOTE=bamaboy473;2785475]....so somebody has to ask the obvious question:

WHAT is involved in winterizing an RV or MotorHome? Could a $325 job involve a lot more than a $99 job (so price isn't on equal terms)?/QUOTE]

I asked... it's no different than last year when I paid the $99... She just told me they "raised" the prices..

I have a class A... it has the 1-1/2 bath set up.. the mid-ship bath has a macerator.. I have NO ice-maker, NO laundry and NO dishwasher..

I have a buddy who has a "pancake" compressor he's going to let me use.. I figure I'll blow out all the lines, drain/bypass the water heater, use the winterizing siphon to add the "pink" stuff and add more pink stuff to the drain traps..

I'd really like it if blowing out the lines would be sufficient, but I don't want to risk an issue like GEORGE SCHWEIKLE had, that would suck..

Question... I know by using the winterizing siphon hose, my water pump will be address.. but what would be the best practice to insure no damage to my macerator?
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Old 10-22-2015, 08:47 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Romer1 View Post
If you're blowing out the lines, where do you use the 3 jugs of antifreeze? After blowing out my lines, I only need about half a gallon to fill sink and shower drains and put some in toilet to keep seals wet. All faucets are left open, water heater drain plug out, relief valve open.
That is a good question.
I use less than 1 gallon of RV antifreeze each year for the P-traps and Splendide washer drain pump.
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Old 10-22-2015, 04:41 PM   #32
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Planning on winterizing mine next Friday as we head for Cortez FL. Had it since 2008 and haven't had to winterize it yet! My MI ski boat is another matter, 2 gallons of pink.
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Old 10-23-2015, 09:26 AM   #33
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There are two ways to winterize with air. One can pump air through for an hour hoping they got all the water or one can do a 5 minute air up to work all the valves getting most of the water out then push in the diluted pink stuff.

There used to be a third way of just pushing the pure pink stuff in and letting it push out the water. Then the price of the pure stuff skyrocketed so all one gets is one of a couple of blends with water added. Read the labels. Propylene glycol is a common food additive. Not sure what alcohols are in the cheap blend.

Either way work all the valves while the system is under pressure to push water out of the cavities in those ball or plunger style valves. If you do not the captured water will crack the side of the valve. BTDT.

Either way do a clorox sanitization in the spring and it will clear out residual compressor oil or proplylene glycol.
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Old 10-23-2015, 04:04 PM   #34
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I drain the hot water tank and leave the plug out. I drain the fresh water tank and when completely empty close the valve.

Next step is close the diverter valve to block the hot water heater from my plumbing system. I now pour in 3 gallons of the 'edible antifreeze' this year it was $2.48 per gal.

I now turn on my pump and run the kitchen sink hot tap till it is pink and then turn on cold until pink. I repeat this for the bathroom/vanity sink as well as the shower and out door shower.

I use a gallon of windshield washer/antifrrze to fill the traps in kitchen, vanity and shower. The remainder goes in the black tank and since the gray water was empty when I started there is a little residual pink stuff in the grey tank.

Total cost about $10. and less than an hour of my time. While doing this job I also 'exercise' my generator
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Old 10-23-2015, 04:16 PM   #35
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Do not know what this winterizing is. Here in the deep south we go all winter.
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Old 10-24-2015, 10:43 AM   #36
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There are two ways to winterize with air. One can pump air through for an hour hoping they got all the water or one can do a 5 minute air up to work all the valves getting most of the water out then push in the diluted pink stuff.

There used to be a third way of just pushing the pure pink stuff in and letting it push out the water. Then the price of the pure stuff skyrocketed so all one gets is one of a couple of blends with water added. Read the labels. Propylene glycol is a common food additive. Not sure what alcohols are in the cheap blend.

Either way work all the valves while the system is under pressure to push water out of the cavities in those ball or plunger style valves. If you do not the captured water will crack the side of the valve. BTDT.

Either way do a clorox sanitization in the spring and it will clear out residual compressor oil or proplylene glycol.
Pumping through with air for an hour. We did 50 to 100 coaches a year and never blew out the lines over 15 minutes on each coach.
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Old 10-24-2015, 10:55 AM   #37
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Simple Winterizing Solution

We get our rig ready for winter by driving to Texas. Costs about $500 in fuel. But -- we're fulltimers so YMMV.
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Old 10-24-2015, 11:12 PM   #38
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I've been winterizing my travel trailers since 1985. I blew out the lines one year. After that, I bypassed the hot water heater, drained it, put 2 gallons of RV antifreeze in the fresh water tank, turned on the 12 volt pump and ran all the faucets until they turned "pink."

This year, I'll be doing the same thing except I'll run the faucets til they turn purple.

With my low point drains, I see no reason to blow out the system with compressed air. I just let gravity do its job.

We often use our trailer on weekends after winterizing without using the hot water heater. It just takes me a couple of minutes to rewinterize since I have the purple stuff waiting in the fresh water tank to pump thru the lines.
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Old 10-25-2015, 08:43 AM   #39
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For those pouring anti freeze into their water tanks and pumping it from there, you're aware there is no way to completely drain those tanks, and you are very likely diluting that anti freeze you're pouring in there significantly? This method also requires the use of much more anti freeze vs. other methods to bring the liquid level high enough to allow the pump to pull from it.

A much better plan is to put an A/B (source selector) valve in the water line between the tank and the pump. This valve is very simple to install (great DIY project) and will allow the user to select the liquid source desired. You can select to pump from either the tank, or from a line leading down into a gallon of anti freeze. This valve will pay for itself very quickly with savings from the reduced amount of anti freeze required to winterize.

The first reason you might want to consider this plan is so you can pump undiluted anti freeze through your system. The second reason is that getting the taste of that anti freeze out of that tank is VERY (!!) difficult. The 3rd reason is many (most?) coaches can be winterized with 1 gallon of anti freeze with that valve in place (assuming there is a water heater by-pass already installed).

Last thought. Carry an empty coffee cup with you as you move through the coach winterizing each fixture. Open one side (hot or cold) and run it until you see pink (telling you that side is now full of anti freeze). On the second side, run until pink as before, but then fill the coffee cup with anti freeze before shutting it off. Use that cup of antifreeze to do that drain trap, and move on to the next. This process will allow you to move through a coach pretty quickly, and winterize the traps without guessing if you've poured enough in. -Al
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Old 10-25-2015, 09:32 AM   #40
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When blowing out lines there needs some understanding with mechanical law: #1 "path of least resistance" once you start getting air mixed with the water coming out the other end, simply said the air will rather ride over the water than push all the water out... there is no guarantee all the water will be out of the lines. #2 "friction loss" what ever air pressure your putting in whats coming out the other end will be something less, length of lines, elbows, turns all equals resistance.

I just flush out with the pink stuff, I buy 3 gallons, been doing it for 15 yrs, no problems.

Mike
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Old 10-26-2015, 12:48 AM   #41
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When blowing out lines there needs some understanding with mechanical law: #1 "path of least resistance" once you start getting air mixed with the water coming out the other end, simply said the air will rather ride over the water than push all the water out... there is no guarantee all the water will be out of the lines. #2 "friction loss" what ever air pressure your putting in whats coming out the other end will be something less, length of lines, elbows, turns all equals resistance.

I just flush out with the pink stuff, I buy 3 gallons, been doing it for 15 yrs, no problems.

Mike
I really do not care if people use air or antifreeze. However, If what you say is true, how do you explain the fact that we used only air at our dealership for fifteen years with no frozen lines.
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Old 10-26-2015, 07:38 AM   #42
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I really do not care if people use air or antifreeze. However, If what you say is true, how do you explain the fact that we used only air at our dealership for fifteen years with no frozen lines.
Luck, and you're no further north than you are would be my guess....

(20 years at an Mi. dealer... with a TON of experience replacing frozen toilet water valves)
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