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Old 04-24-2012, 09:51 AM   #15
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I have a Nitrogen tank and regulator that I use for the shocks in my sandrail. It prevents rust and contamination in the shocks. I don't think the size tank I have would do all 6 19.5 MH tires to 85 psi.



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Old 04-24-2012, 10:27 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_D View Post
X3.

The only "saving grace" is that it's moisture free. And compressed air might not be unless there's an air dryer in the line.

Moisture can attack the metal belts in a tire and cause them to rust, which breaks the bond between the metal and rubber and can easily lead to a blowout. And then the tire manufacturer gets blamed for a faulty tire.
The only way moisture can attack the steel belts in tires and cause rust is if there are cuts in the tire down to the metal allowing the moisture to access the belts. In 10 years of working in a retread facility that was my observation. In my years of trucking, I have seen hundreds of tires mounted and dismounted and never found moisture in side when dismounted.

Most tire leakage comes from a damaged inner liner in the tire mostly caused by under inflation!
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Old 04-24-2012, 11:03 AM   #17
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The paddle tires on our sand rails have very thin sidewalls and tend to leak. So bad, that with some, when you come out on a dewey morning, it looks like foam on the sidewalls. At first, a lot of us used SlimeŽ stop leak. We found that SlimeŽ caused cancer inside the aluminum rims. So bad, that a friend had it eat all the way through the rim. I switched to a 50/50 mixture of NAPA tire sealant/filtered water and my tires no longer leak. My friends have had the same success.

Point being that it stays liquid and there is never any rust inside the wheel. They don't have steel belts, but there is also no corrosion. Unlike SlimeŽ, it washes right off when it's time to sell the tires to newbees or people with lower powered rails that don't need the bite of a tire with taller paddles. Don't use Slime if you have aluminum rims on your MH or trailer. Slime says they have a more aluminum friendly version, but I won't take the change.



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Old 04-24-2012, 11:10 AM   #18
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Nitrogen will follow the gas laws and when the tire heats the air in the tire, the pressure will rise....so the theory that nitrogen charged tires do not heat up and increase pressure is pure BS. Any tire that runs down the road will heat up due to flexing of the sidewall and thread and also due to friction on the pavement.

So save your dollars and use free air which is 74% nitrogen. On your home aire compressor you can easily add a drier to take care of the moisture.

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Old 04-24-2012, 12:31 PM   #19
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While N2 can't and won't solve tire problems, it IS better than regular old air. There is a reason that every commercial and military aircraft has N2 in the tires and that is because it is dry. No moisture equals less pressure change during temperature fluctuations.
Now whether the cost trade off is worth it for the average Joe, that is for them to decide. But to flatly say that it's snake oil is ignorant. I do agree that a quality filter/dryer on an air compressor will work just fine for airing up tires, but even then, it's at best a wash vs. nitrogen.
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Old 04-24-2012, 01:39 PM   #20
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I think the OP's question is quite valid. Even though air is 78% nitrogen there is still some water vapor and oxygen remaining. In the internal tire environment the combination of mechanical flexing, temperature cycling and high pressure might allow moist O2 to permeate to the steel belt

I would like to hear from some nitrogen users whether they have been able to exceed the 5-7 year tire life or not.

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Old 04-25-2012, 02:49 AM   #21
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Tire manufacturers have engineered the increase in air pressure due to heat build up in the tires. Using a cold tire pressure setting for a certain weight load for a particular tire will end up at the correct pressure under hot conditions. Tire failure of a properly maintained tire without road debris damage is just plain old age; the rubber compound of the tire fatigues and cannot perform it job of handling the load. If you use dry air, keep the tires properly aired up, out of direct sunlight and as dry as possible the only other better thing one can do is to just keep driving it. A rolling tire will last in time longer than a sitting tire.
Keep in mind that tires are rated for a maximum speed of 65 mph. For every mph over 65 the tire rated carrying capacity must be reduced 50 lbs.
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Old 04-25-2012, 06:05 AM   #22
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Do the tire dealers that "sell" nitrogen vacuum the air out prior to installing nitrogen?
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Old 04-25-2012, 06:14 AM   #23
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Nitrogen vs Air In Tires - Why Nitrogen in Tires - Popular Mechanics



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Old 04-25-2012, 10:59 AM   #24
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IMHO, I think that for the tire industry, nitrogen is one of the best marketing tools they have used in a long time. As an Earth bound user of their products, I can't justify the cost of nitrogen's limited benefits.

The left sidebar with the FAQs, should provide some good info...Bob

Nitrogen for Tires: FAQ
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Old 04-25-2012, 11:24 AM   #25
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Since our motorhome tires seem to heat up within normal limits while traveling, and we lose only about 4 psi per year (from 105) I will stick with the cheap ordinary air.
Which is already 78% Nitrogen anyway.
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Old 04-25-2012, 11:26 AM   #26
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Most tire leakage comes from a damaged inner liner in the tire mostly caused by under inflation!
Which then allows moisture in and attacks the steel belts and the tire manufacturer is criticized for producing bad tires.
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Old 04-25-2012, 11:33 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darrel View Post
I think the OP's question is quite valid. Even though air is 78% nitrogen there is still some water vapor and oxygen remaining. In the internal tire environment the combination of mechanical flexing, temperature cycling and high pressure might allow moist O2 to permeate to the steel belt

I would like to hear from some nitrogen users whether they have been able to exceed the 5-7 year tire life or not.

Darrel
I don't use nitrogen and easily got 8˝ years out of our Michelin's before I changed them out. Even then they had never leaked and the sidewalls, while not crack free were still within Michelin's "safe" band.

BTW, the "507 year tire life" is an old wives tale or Internet legend. No tire manufacturer says tires need to be changed out that soon. They do say that as tires age they become more susceptible to damage and should be checked at least yearly.
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Old 04-25-2012, 11:34 AM   #28
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Keep in mind that tires are rated for a maximum speed of 65 mph. For every mph over 65 the tire rated carrying capacity must be reduced 50 lbs.
Michelin rates almost all of their RV tires for 75 mph.
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