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Old 03-13-2016, 09:22 AM   #15
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Did you have the opportunity to see first hand the locations of the leaks? I would think it would be normal to see bubbles at the weep or drain holes at the bottom of the frame and from around the glass on the active side of the window. But bubbles around the outside of the frame I would think is not good.


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Old 03-13-2016, 09:37 AM   #16
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Unfortunately not. But what I have read here on the forums and online it doesn't seem to be too difficult to remove and install the window.

I'll start with the window above the mushrooms and wet floor and see how that goes.

I did noticed that when the coach was parked sloping toward the curb side the floor was wet. Now we have it park with a slight slope toward road side and it's doesn't seem to be getting wet. Curious observation but not sure it means anything.

We'll find out today if it hold true. Suppose to have a lot of rain and wind gusts up to 65 mph today. That should be a good test.

Bill & Gabrielle
1999 Monaco Diplomat 38A
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Old 03-13-2016, 09:51 AM   #17
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Location: East Tennessee
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You will need a helper to remove and re-install a window. A cordless drill w/ proper bit, & a putty knife. Remove all the screws except for a couple along the top. Stick the putty knife between the frame and wall & work your way around the frame breaking the seal between the two. The helper might have to do the same inside. Once you have it separated, remove the last couple of screws and pull the window out, while the helper pulls the inside retainer frame off. Scrape off all the sealant, apply new stuff, re-attach window.

I had a leak over the drivers side slider window. Thought is was the slider...nope, water sprayed on the side of the coach had it coming above the inside frame in one corner. Took the window out and found that the moron at the factory must have been drinking a lot of cough syrup that day and routed the opening 1/2" too large in two of the corners. There was nothing, no caulk, so foam, no sealant at all there to prevent water from running inside the coach. The kicker is it was that way from day one and my coach is 20 years old.
1996 Fleetwood Flair 22' (aka Stumpy) Chevy 454
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Old 03-13-2016, 12:14 PM   #18
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I'm in the same boat as dubbyjig, only mine isn't to the mushroom stage yet. I had the windows out of our previous RVs which were wood frame TCs. Those just had screws that went into the wood frame, but from what Motor7 says his Flair is a bit different. Do the inner and outer window sections just clamp together? I haven't had mine out yet ('93 26' Flair) but I'm headed in that direction. The drivers side appears to have a slight bubble just behind it.

The windows I've removed from the TCs I did about like Motor7, except I screwed the few left in place out a small amount to allow the window a bit of movement there. I was able to do them by myself, but they may have been different (smaller?).

I have several side doors off resealing them and they are attached with self tapping sheet metal screws that go into the metal frame. Some of these break break off if rusted. I've been replacing them with stainless screws. For the broken screws I'm planning to use stainless self tapping. I removed the trim covering them with a long narrow screwdriver. If bent too much it will break, but can be bought in long strips at a place that sells RV parts.

I've been using plastic scrapers, that I think were intended to remove auto interior trim, from Harbor Freight to get windows off and remove the excess putty to avoid scratching paint. It works most of the time, and they are cheap.

I like butyl tape a lot better than the putty type.

I also found wood preservative and wood hardener at Home Depot. I've been applying the preservative to any exposed wood I find that is sound and any new wood that I add. I've used the hardener on wood that is still sound with some deterioration and will be difficult to replace. This is not for interior or decorative wood, only wood that is or could be exposed to the elements.

One more thing, If you remove windows with sections that roll out be sure to remove the handles from the inside or, like me, you will be replacing them.:-))

Best of luck.

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Old 03-13-2016, 01:59 PM   #19
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Dix, mine did clamp together and did not screw into the wall at all. So, with my "huge" opening, I used some rubber blocks to raise the window in the opening enough to barely cover the gap, then put Eternabond caulking all the way around. Can't remember if I used Butyl or Putty around the interior of the frame...........

1996 Fleetwood Flair 22' (aka Stumpy) Chevy 454
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