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Old 11-01-2015, 07:31 AM   #15
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I have a 2000 Dutch Star. I'm doing a roof replacement this winter. I have no visual leaks but have some soft areas. Can you explain the process for taking the A/C units off the roof. Is the process for removal of the fasteners under A/C shroud on roof? Did you learn any short cuts for the job?
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Old 11-01-2015, 08:16 AM   #16
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I have a 2000 Dutch Star. I'm doing a roof replacement this winter. I have no visual leaks but have some soft areas. Can you explain the process for taking the A/C units off the roof. Is the process for removal of the fasteners under A/C shroud on roof? Did you learn any short cuts for the job?
I can't speak to Dutch Star specifics, but our Jayco has a Coleman unit on the roof. Basically, I removed the plastic egg-crate air return grill in the ceiling (4 screws). Next, there is a perimeter retaining "ring" up against the ceiling that clamps the unit to the roof. There are four bolts (one in each corner) that pass through this ring from below and thread up into the A/C unit. Remove these. Mine are LONG. Lots of turning. The retaining ring will come down with the last bolt.

Next, my unit has an electric junction box which is held up inside the A/C unit by wing nuts. This box stays with the coach. Undo the wing nuts and take the box down. Disconnect the A/C unit's plug from this box. There is also a sensor probe which is inserted in the A/C unit's fins (up inside, same general area as the J-box. Gently pull out the probe and let it hang into the coach. At this point you should be ready to lift the unit from the roof.

On the roof, I removed the plastic cover (four large screws on the top) and then lifted the A/C unit off. The gasket may tend to stick to the roof a bit. Then the fun part is getting the unit off the roof. I suppose two people with two ladders might do it safely. Or one really strong guy who is sure-footed.

If I didn't have the deck, I might have simply tried leaving the unit on the roof and carefully shifted it around as the work progressed.

Hope this helps. Good luck!
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Old 11-01-2015, 08:23 AM   #17
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That is a great start, one day and you are ready to rock with that rubber removal!

I have been brainstorming for months how I will accomplish mine. So far, my plan is to remove both roof AC units while it's in the barn, I can hoist them to a platform I will lay in between the trusses via block and tackle. Then run her out for the messy roof removal. Back in at night.

I am not all that fond of wood in the roof but unless we buy a bus, we are stuck with it. Even the fiberglass roof models are wood below. I will be looking around for a wood replacement that won't rot.
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Old 11-01-2015, 10:29 AM   #18
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I found that taking pictures of the installation and junction box was very helpful when putting it all back together. Electrical is not my forte so pictures made it very easy.
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Old 11-01-2015, 07:47 PM   #19
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Managed to squeeze in three hours today. Finished plumbing vent removal, ladder loosening, and one sidewall termination bar / gutter removal. With one side loose, I decided to go ahead and remove the TPO membrane. I simply cut it along the front & rear ends and down the passenger side. Will have to complete that removal next time. Wanted to see how bad the roof is & begin to think about next steps. Some areas were pretty wet. That old-style TPO with the fabric backing is bad stuff.

Photos are below... (note: the white stuff on the roof is TPO backing-fuzz, not mildew)

Key observations:
- wall & roof framing is box aluminum (good! so glad it's not wood...)
- there is white hard foam insulation in the spaces between the rafters
- the luan ply roof appears to have been glued to the rafters and the foam too.
- the luan is not all bad, but there are bad areas in many spots, especially along the roof edge. The roof has a bit of a valley just before the side, so water doesn't run off very well.

Problems:
- with the luan being glued down, I don't see how it's feasible to remove sections where the wood is still solid. I think the demolition would be hellacious and would tear up all of that foam, making the project a magnitude or three bigger.
- there's an aluminum 90 deg. corner strip that overlaps the luan and the fiberglass sides. That strip was pneumatically stapled on with really heavy staples (into the aluminum box framing. There are more staples than grains of sand on a beach. Removing it would be the absolute last option.

Solutions: (YOUR INPUT / ADVICE WELCOME!)
The most practical approach I can think of is to cut out the rotten sections (straight cuts in the closest solid wood) with a circular saw set very shallow. Pull out all the bad wood, chipping it out from under that corner angle. Cut new luan sections to fit and re-glue it in place, tucking it under the corner angles as best I can. I would make the sections as contiguous as possible to maximize strength, though obviously this approach will result in more joints in places away from rafters.

What kind of glue would I use? Liquid nails? I think I'd like something that set up a bit faster...

I could consider overlaying the entire roof with another layer of luan for added strength, but I'm not sure it's necessary. The roof feels pretty strong as-is. And of course it's a lot more work. Also, it would have to rest on top of that corner angle along the sides, though I could sand / round the edge prior to putting the new TPO on.









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Old 11-02-2015, 07:47 AM   #20
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If that were mine I would be looking at a way to lay new material over the top of the entire rig provided the stuff under the radius is OK, but you don't have a way to tell do you? Those staples look rusty which may indicate that there was water going past them.

You could remove the metal radius from the side walls and cut the plywood beyond the aluminum at some point to allow removal of it all. From there, you could overlay the entire roof and tuck the wood under the new radius you will be installing. Thus eliminating the worry of cleaning that old wood or leaving any rot. This will also eliminate any edge sticking above the radius.
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Old 11-02-2015, 08:49 AM   #21
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If that were mine I would be looking at a way to lay new material over the top of the entire rig provided the stuff under the radius is OK, but you don't have a way to tell do you? Those staples look rusty which may indicate that there was water going past them.

You could remove the metal radius from the side walls and cut the plywood beyond the aluminum at some point to allow removal of it all. From there, you could overlay the entire roof and tuck the wood under the new radius you will be installing. Thus eliminating the worry of cleaning that old wood or leaving any rot. This will also eliminate any edge sticking above the radius.
Thanks for the reply! What you've outlined is for sure the most complete method, and given unlimited time probably what I would do. (Still may...) What worries me is that I really need to have this done by the end of the month, and I do have a FT job & family . Am hoping to do some further exploration tonight & see if the way forward becomes more clear. I am a perfectionist by nature - my challenge here will be balancing "perfect" with "good enough" given the whole picture. If I can repair 95% of the damage and put on a solid 15-year roof (with good care), I'll feel good owning it now and also upon resale that I've given it a responsible repair.
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Old 11-02-2015, 12:01 PM   #22
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IMO it is better sometimes to go back to the beginning and do all of it. Would eliminate any issues of fitting joints together.

What may seem like a larger task is sometimes made easier by getting rid of some of the finicky work.
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Old 11-03-2015, 08:50 AM   #23
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I know what you mean Steve re the perfectionist and limited time. My two surgeries and full time job were not the only reason we missed an entire season, I went over the 1999 Bus with a fine toothed comb as well as repairing the rear cap leak and some associated wood issue. Ultimately, in a year, you will feel much better about the project if you do what you think you don't have time for. Judging from your pictures you have considerable work on that old wood to get new rubber to stick to it so overlay may actually be a time saver as Gordon suggested.
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Old 11-03-2015, 09:49 AM   #24
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Adhesive?

Thanks to you both for the thoughts / advice. Did a couple more hours last night - mainly removing bad wood. I think most is out now.

Key question: what adhesive to use? There are very few rafters (like 8 feet apart). The factory relied exclusively on glue to hold the 1/8" lauan to the white foam and the few rafters. That adhesive worked very well and is still holding tightly.

So, I will need an adhesive that's compatible with (polystyrene?) foam & wood, and will set up fairly quickly. The foam is molded/curved and I will try to put weights on to maintain contact during cure, but I won't have any way to mechanically fasten the wood for most of the area where no solid lauan remains. Any suggestions? Will be stopping by the hardware store today to inquire.

If I do choose to do an overlay, I figure I can possibly use countersunk screws into the (still good) lauan underneath, along with glue. Course, 1/8" doesn't give much room for countersinking or gripping...
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Old 11-03-2015, 09:53 AM   #25
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Maybe this?: LIQUID NAILS Adhesive | Panel & Foam Adhesive
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Old 11-03-2015, 10:15 AM   #26
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Gorilla glue is great. One surface put the glue on and the other surface mist of water. Put them together and attach the panel in areas that you can't screw add weight. The glue becomes a type of foam and it will be there forever.


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Old 11-03-2015, 12:56 PM   #27
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Good idea - thanks Johndale.... will consider that too.
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Old 11-04-2015, 04:52 AM   #28
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I was thinking liquid nails also.
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