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Old 11-04-2015, 09:07 AM   #29
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When I repaired mine I used liquid nails for wood/foam, plus my pneumatic stapler and as an extra step, low voc epoxy resin compatible with these materials. Don't waste your time with screws in that luan, use the glue and staples unless you are directly over a wood support beam. The staples will angle in two directions for each one providing more holding power than one thread of a screw. The Gorilla glue sounds promising also. Lastly, in the spotty areas with too much foam missing to seat the luan properly with the glue I pumped that sticky foam into the areas via holes I had drilled for that purpose. Used cement blocks to hold the panels into place until everything set up. The area I repaired is stiffer than the original.
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Old 11-04-2015, 09:57 AM   #30
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Thanks for the input, everyone! (Monkey Run, I agree about the screws - there's little to bite into and little room to countersink either.) Will be back at it again tonight & see how far I get. On tap will be removal of Eternabond tape from the front & rear cap seams. Not looking forward to that.

One other item occurs to me: I may have places where I need to "fair" in (make a smooth transition) between new & old wood. Doesn't have to be pretty, since TPO will cover. Just a smooth surface for the TPO to rest on. Anybody have thoughts? I'm thinking some sort of tube caulk that can be laid down and smoothed out with a putty knife.
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Old 11-04-2015, 10:29 AM   #31
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Hi Red,

Thanks for the reply and the good advice. Will definitely be taking it into account as I dig into this.

For reference, you mentioned a fixed TV antenna vs. the crank-up batwing. Could you give me a link or example? Might want to do the same...
Steverino
I can tell you from experiace that you will not find a RV TV antenna that gets better long distant OTA TV reception than your batwing...(IF you simply add a $20 Wingman): Winegard GS-WING Wingman HDTV Antenna at TigerDirect.com

(I have tried 5 or 6 different "made for RV TV antennas" and ended up using my original 19 year old batwing with a Winegard Wingman attached).
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Old 11-04-2015, 02:12 PM   #32
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sorry for the late reply-we have had no internet for over a week. The antenna is here:
RV Digital TV Antenna - Complete Antenna - PPL Motor Homes

As for glue to hold the plywood down, if you are going to use it as a primary fastening method I would use Bostik wood floor adhesive and trowel down with a 1/8 inch notched trowel. This will provide complete adhesion and is designed to last a lifetime. Also pretty easy to apply. Just place heavy objects on the boards as they dry overnight, when it's cured the bond will be stronger than the wood. Also is a moisture barrier as an added bonus. You WILL want a clean, new surface to glue your new roof down to.

If you do any "patch" replacement of rotten wood just be mindful that you need support under ALL joints or you will have bad deflection when you step on the joint after it is completed (firsthand experience here). All the jobs we did had rafters running across the roof and very few supports running front to back, and even with 16 inch spacing 1/2 inch plywood flexed substantially. This meant any "patch" had to be gutter to gutter.

That said I would leave any and all wood you can-even minor damaged wood-and just put new luan over it. Just make sure it is dried out above and below. You are right on with perfect being the enemy of good enough. Tear out is a pita and usually causes other repairs in the process.
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Old 11-04-2015, 02:36 PM   #33
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Just for clarification: there is no such thing as a "digital" over-the air (OTA) antenna. ALL OTA antennas can recieve digital. If it says digital on the box or the description, it is just sales fluff. What does need to be digital is the receiver (TV) or a digital converter for older TV's. But ANY working antenna can recieve digital signals.

I agree with the previous poster that the Winegard Sensar batwing with Wingman attachment is one of the best available. If you want to splurge, get Winegard's Sensar Automatic antenna, which makes antenna pointing much easier.

As for Eternabond vs Dicor, the best thing to do is use both. Apply the Dicor and let it cure for 30-60 days, then cover it with Eternabond. Done correctly, you will have a double water seal that will last for as long as you do. The Enternabond will protect the Dicor from the elements so that the Dicor does not deteriorate as it normally does. Years later the Dicor will still be like new underneath the Eternabond.
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Old 11-15-2015, 07:31 AM   #34
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Sorry for the long delay in replying. Been spending all my spare time working on the project. :roll eyes: Thanks for the antenna advice - I'll be keeping the Winegard Sensar...

The quick summary: Sawcut & removed all rotten areas of 1/8" luan, cleaned it down to the hard foam. Rafters are almost nonexistent at the roof level - at least 8' apart. Patched in 5mm luan. No 1/8" available locally. Weighted it down as best I could to get it to form to the roof shape. Not as flexible as 1/8", nor am I equipped like the factory was. Used a multipurpose 2-part Bondo patch to fair in the patch joints, going over it with a sander to smooth out. Went over any potential sharp / rough spots / unpatched seams with wide masking tape as a protection for the TPO.

Seriously considered doing a complete overlay as well, but ultimately decided against it:
1. the patched surface, while not as "pretty", seems to be strong enough
2. time is not unlimited
3. logistics (the rig is 8' 4" wide so standard material sizes would require odd joints; no simple way to terminate at the edges of the roof; difficulties in getting the 5mm luan to properly conform to the existing shape.

If I had unlimited time and a proper workspace at home, I may well have done it differently - it was very tempting. I do feel that when all is said and done, this will give a long-lasting, waterproof result.

As of the end of the day yesterday, the new TPO is glued down, one side gutter/termination strip is fully screwed in, and the other side is 3/4 done. BTW, I was able to do the job without removing the huge awning. A little trickier, but definitely a time-saver. Need to do the front and rear terminations, and then on to installing all the new vents, etc.

For anyone considering it, the TPO is not hard to work with. Hardest part was trying to work most of the bubbles out. BTW, I have an extra gallon of Dicor adhesive I'd be happy to sell for something less than retail...

The rear cap is molded plastic and the old TPO tucked underneath. Given that Dicor recommends that the rear termination OVERLAP the cap, and the additional complexity / risk in trying to remove all of the rear capping, I may use Eternabond for that joint. I had previously applied it there and boy-howdy, it was still stuck on!

A parting question - I am thinking about how I will re-install the solar panel. It has four Z bracket feet, each with two screws (so 8 total). I had previously attached it with toggles through the 1/8" luan, however obviously couldn't re-use them and not eager to repeat that process. Do you think that screws into the relatively thin luan are adequate? Or how would you attach it?







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Old 11-15-2015, 10:53 AM   #35
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Nice job Steve, I know it's never easy working on a timeline! It appears that you ran down the radius on both sides and are finishing off the end caps with a Eternabond product.
I may go that route myself if my wood is in good shape below. After looking at the joint again and given the fact that I just removed both sides and re-bed them I hate to think of pulling it apart a second time. All will depend upon how much prep work is necessitated by the wood under the rubber...when the time comes...
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Old 11-15-2015, 05:42 PM   #36
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That's correct, Don. Our rig uses aluminum termination bars along the side (they double as gutters). They use screws every 4" into the sidewalls, and have the typical vinyl covering strip inserted to finish off.

Did some work today on installing roof vents. With any luck, maybe I'll get this thing wrapped up next weekend...

Still looking for ideas for the solar panel install hardware...anybody?
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Old 11-15-2015, 08:33 PM   #37
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If it does not need to be on the roof I would look to do a mount such as used by many with their dishes. Pole or ground tripod would place it where it does the most good and you could run the cable to the battery bank with whatever type of quick connect.

ps..take a look at how it's done on sailboats.
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Old 11-15-2015, 08:35 PM   #38
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By the way, I finally caught up with some of my accounting tonight. Total cost for the project thus far is $1,600. That includes the TPO, a Dicor roof kit, two pop-up vents, fridge vent, shower dome bubble, wood repair materials & glue, stainless screws for everything...
I'll probably need a tube or two of Geocel Proflex yet, and maybe some more Dicor self-leveling. The above figure also includes $350 for a month's rent of a heated storage bay where I could work. So for materials only, figure on $1,250 or so.

I'm guessing I have around 50 hours in the project. I imagine I might be a bit slower than a professional with some experience, but not horribly so. If I charge that at the dealer shop rate of $95, that's another $4,655! At least I know the quality of what I got, for better or worse.
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Old 11-15-2015, 08:38 PM   #39
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If it does not need to be on the roof I would look to do a mount such as used by many with their dishes. Pole or ground tripod would place it where it does the most good and you could run the cable to the battery bank with whatever type of quick connect.

ps..take a look at how it's done on sailboats.
Thanks Don. Actually it does need to be on the roof, as it keeps our batteries fresh while in storage, and it can't be laying on the ground there. Will check out the boats, though I imagine with fiberglass you can use various adhesives since the fiberglass is solid, whereas my top surface is only a membrane.
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Old 11-16-2015, 07:26 AM   #40
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I was watching program on TV about solar panels for the sticks and bricks roof and they used long metal strips attached to angle brackets to attach the panels. I wonder if you could get some type of aluminum metal strips that would be 8" in length so that you could attach both ends to a truss, then attach the panels to the metal strips. That way you'd know the panels were very secured to the truss instead of the Luan plywood. The aluminum would be light weight. Just a random thought I just had and don't know if it's feasible.
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Old 11-16-2015, 08:35 AM   #41
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I had to stop by Home Depot on the way in this morning to make some returns. Spent some time looking at their anchor hardware section. Ended up buying these: E-Z Ancor Twist-N-Lock 75 lb. Medium Duty Drywall Anchors (50-Pack)-25310 - The Home Depot

The reason I liked it is that the anchor threads are quite broad, which should give a good grip under the luan. Also, the anchor will expand into the hard foam beneath, giving additional stability. My only concern is whether the plastic will deteriorate over time, but it will not be exposed to UV, and I will add "tug on solar panel" to my maintenance list - maybe 2x-3x per season.

I will pre-drill for install - luan may be thin, but it ain't as soft as drywall...

There are better anchors out there, but they require a hollow wall cavity, and sometimes a thicker wall surface, neither of which I have.

Hi Minnow, I had thought of something like that, but couldn't quite wrap my head around how to make it immobile enough - it's a really long span between the rafters
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Old 11-16-2015, 09:07 AM   #42
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Just a FYI, Good choice on anchors. We used them all the time where I used to work. (Bldg maintenance, 7 office bldg.'s) 28 years.
Looking good.
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