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Old 02-24-2013, 02:13 PM   #15
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I personally would upgrade what I already have.....unless there is some overwhelming issue with it.....half the enjoyment of RVing is making the unit "yours". But thats just how I feel.
I thought of that but the storage issue is killing us. We have been doing quite a bit of boondocking to get to our destinations and I cannot fit on the bed without putting the slide out and DW has to camp out elsewhere. My 3 older boys have taken an interest in coming with and it is not at all possible with our B+. We have no place to eat with the slide in as the table fits with it out. So they are some unfixables for us because we are doing a bit of everything, long and short trips, tailgating and just having people use it when they visit. Many factors we didn't even consider in our purchase.
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Old 02-24-2013, 02:24 PM   #16
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I understand fully what you mean....we had some of the same issues with our travel trailer before we upgraded to a class c. I was going to renovate it a little but the last winter we had it the roof leaked and we decided it wasn't worth the effort being 10 years old....I cleaned it well and traded it in on a used c. They gave me $2500 for it and sold it 2 weeks later for $7995.00.
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Old 02-24-2013, 02:29 PM   #17
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Just a couple of questions:
1. Do you really need to upgrade or can you live with what you have for a couple more years?
2. Are you in that much of a hurry that you can't take a month or so to sell the unit yourself?

The reason I ask is that you are upside down now at least $4000 and more. Is that worth buying another and being further upside down. They will wrap and you will pay thousands more in the long run. If you do want to upgrade then sell your current unit yourself and pocket the extra. Then go and deal with the unit you want. The problem is you still might be upside down in your loan with selling on your own. If you do choose to upgrade why not sell your current unit on your own and go buy a unit that is 1 or 2 years older with all the options you want and save the depreciation.

JMHO
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I cannot find many comparibles to even see what mine is worth. then the problem becomes being able to get enough extra to cover the additional taxes (but I may be able to negotiate then down more with cash to make up the difference). I really from what I can see would not be pocketing much if any cash. I don't think they really totally low balled me (I know if I walk they will squeak a bit more) as I went to a couple other dealers who offered $4000 less than this dealer. The big issue is we have been looking quite a bit since we have put some trips behind us and The ACE is about perfect all around for everything we need and want. I have spent hours looking at other units and floorplans and storage options and this seems to have everything we need or want. So the big thing is it is too new and there are no used units to even consider. That is where it comes in that I assume mine will keep depreciating (and needing expensive things like tires and roof repair) and will the ACE depreciate slower or faster (I know no one has a crystal ball). Just wondering. Maybe way too much.
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Old 02-24-2013, 02:33 PM   #18
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The reason I ask is that you are upside down now at least $4000 and more. Is that worth buying another and being further upside down. They will wrap and you will pay thousands more in the long run. If you do want to upgrade then sell your current unit yourself and pocket the extra. Then go and deal with the unit you want. The problem is you still might be upside down in your loan with selling on your own. If you do choose to upgrade why not sell your current unit on your own and go buy a unit that is 1 or 2 years older with all the options you want and save the depreciation. Arnold
If you add $4k to a new unit and then go to sell it in a few years, you will be majorly upside down due to the depreciation again and the additional wrap. Not a good place. I agree with Arnold on selling it on your own and buying a 1 to 3 year old unit... and let some one else take the depreciation hit.
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Old 02-24-2013, 05:31 PM   #19
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I guess I look at it slightly different. 4k doesn't seem like that much to be worried about in the grand scheme of things. Money is money, but if the lady handling the books says you can handle it then go with it. I would rather take a 4k hit and be happy in my new rig for years to come, than regret and want for years. Never know what the future holds...
I agree.
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Old 02-24-2013, 07:38 PM   #20
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. They gave me $2500 for it and sold it 2 weeks later for $7995.00.
One will most often do better when not using existing vehicle for trade in, but selling privately, then buying new or used.
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Old 02-24-2013, 07:40 PM   #21
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If you add $4k to a new unit and then go to sell it in a few years, you will be majorly upside down due to the depreciation again and the additional wrap. Not a good place. I agree with Arnold on selling it on your own and buying a 1 to 3 year old unit... and let some one else take the depreciation hit.
x2 New units, never! It takes a few years to 'break them in' and 'fix what breaks'. We would not buy anything less than three years old, with low mileage.
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Old 02-25-2013, 04:55 PM   #22
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One will most often do better when not using existing vehicle for trade in, but selling privately, then buying new or used.
How do you sell something that you don't have the title for? I have sold 30+ cars and have always had the title. We owe $40,000, may be able to get close to that. The ACE deal is $101,000 list. Deal is 67,000. They are offering me $36,000. Kbb say between 40 and 42,000 worth. Where do you sell these things to hit the most people. I alway sold my car from the front yard or word of mouth. How much more could I get off from a no haggle price?
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:31 PM   #23
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A tt we were interested in back in the summer of 11' the dealer wanted $19,500 + our 05' tt (out the door price)...Long story short, ended up buying from another dealer 2 hours away for get this, $9800 + our 05' (out the door price)....Both gave us a trade value of $6500....After signing a contract to order it I ended up selling it on Craigslist for $8500.....the next day. So to upgrade from a 2005 (24' Aerolite hybrid with 380 nights) to a 2013 (25' Aerolite hybrid) it cost us $7800.....

First time ever buying a car or RV where I didn't bargain for a better price...When he told me $9800 over the phone plus mine...I was like what ?? I was like speechless ???? I'll be right over to put down a deposit. That other dealer was going to screw me royal.....
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:08 PM   #24
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Any idea's of what a consignment deal cost the seller?
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Old 02-27-2013, 04:45 AM   #25
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Any idea's of what a consignment deal cost the seller?
I sold a big Sea Ray boat on consignment once, I told them what I wanted for it, so anything above my price they would keep. 1week later they called and said they had sold it and my check was in the mail. (first thought was I didn't ask enough for it)
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:07 AM   #26
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I sold a big Sea Ray boat on consignment once, I told them what I wanted for it, so anything above my price they would keep. 1week later they called and said they had sold it and my check was in the mail. (first thought was I didn't ask enough for it)
My first thought is...wow, what a lucky guy! I've been trying to sell my 41 Silverton for 3 years now and nuttin! It's in pristine condition, is all over the internet, and at a very easy to move into price... but I guess nobody wants a boat that burns 30 gals an hr and does 20 miles an hour... So now I own a boat and a 39 ft coach...
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:04 AM   #27
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KBB guesses at prices

have you tried this : Travel Trailers/5th Wheels Price, Travel Trailers/5th Wheels Value & Travel Trailers/5th Wheels Trade In | NADAguides | Travel Trailers/5th Wheels Price Specs

if your rv is not listed on the main page, scroll and look for the

Don't see your manufacturer? Select from the full list: link
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Old 03-03-2013, 01:13 PM   #28
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Sciguy6, the NADA and Kelly guides you see for free online are "consumer guides". The ones the dealers and banks use are a pay for service and have way more data that is compiled from auction and dealer sales. Ask the dealer to let you see his NADA book it's about 4" thick and comes out 3 times a year. But as others have said you will much better off selling your current unit out right, that way when you purchase another unit there is nothing to muddy the $$$ waters. good luck
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