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Old 06-08-2016, 09:40 AM   #71
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As the OP, its great to see this post lives on!

Just drove down from NJ to FL Keys ahead of Tropical Storm Colin and hits some winds so tried to adjust TruCenter. Did not seem to help. Just checked it now listening for the loud click but nothing.

I'm going out west in July so may make a pit stop at the BlueOx factory in NE!

This 4th TruCenter seemed to last the longest. But I don't think I'm ready to covert to air yet!
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Old 06-12-2016, 06:05 PM   #72
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Today I re-installed my modified Trucenter, installed magnet valve and ran air lines. Everything works fine. I also installed quick exhaust valve to shorten reengaging time, but probably it was not needed. Will see, hopefully air cylinder will be more robust than solenoid.
Mike
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Old 06-14-2016, 02:21 PM   #73
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myarmar,

Thanks for the info. I too noticed no locking sensation at the wheel during my last outing. I may have to convert my solenoid to air as well.

Do you have any photos with the solenoid cover off? I'd like to see your conversion a little closer.

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Old 06-14-2016, 02:34 PM   #74
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Yes Craig, scroll up to post 68. There is a picture with cover off.
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Old 06-14-2016, 04:16 PM   #75
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TruCenter Solenoid Problems with Pics!

Quote:
Originally Posted by myarmar View Post
Yes Craig, scroll up to post 68. There is a picture with cover off.
Mike

Duh!

Thanks Mike!
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Old 06-14-2016, 04:59 PM   #76
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Larger picture of the inside for you
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Old 06-14-2016, 05:41 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myarmar View Post
Larger picture of the inside for you

Thanks Mike.

Where did you tap into the air system?

What is the device in this photo?

Craig

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Old 06-14-2016, 05:51 PM   #78
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I have 2015 Thor Palazzo and there is a customer manifold at the right front, behind the generator hood. See picture, plug was removed and fitting installed and white line was added. But the connection point would depend on the type of the RV you have.
The device in the picture is a magnet valve. When I push the button to recenter, it gets 12V and lets air into the Trucenter cylinder.
Mike
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Old 06-14-2016, 07:22 PM   #79
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Thanks Mike. I have the same manifold on my Providence.

Recovering from back surgery right now, but I now have a new project when I'm healed up.

Thanks again for sharing!

Craig
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Old 06-14-2016, 08:56 PM   #80
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Craig I wish you a speedy recovery.
Mike
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Old 08-16-2017, 06:05 PM   #81
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Just reviving this thread (again) to relate my problem which I think is related to the discussion.
I recently purchased a 2008 HR Scepter 42PDQ. I noticed that it had a Truce Center button On a 400 mile drive home I constantly had to keep the wheel to the right. I tried the button but nothing happened.

This week I took it to my local shop to check the the alignment but they said everything was OK. They recommended a specialty truck center a few miles away that specializes in alignments and I have an appointment next Tuesday.

Now that I read this thread I'm thinking the pull is caused by the True Center, not by any steering components. I think I'll probably have the specialty center take out the True Center and then test drive it before going any further.

Since we are going on a month long trip in September I thought I'd check out the True Center. I have power at the switch, power at the solid state timer, and power at the plug just before the solenoid box, but no click

So I assume I have a bad solenoid. The box is slightly loose as well.

So my question is how do you get the box off? Does it come off completely?

The 4 screw head facing forward are extremely hard to get to and I was hoping to be able to take the box off and then open it.

Thanks for the all the info here and there are probably others still with the same problems. Are there any recommendations for a similar product that works with the RR10S chassis?

Thanks

Chris
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Old 08-16-2017, 07:21 PM   #82
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You would have to open the box to get access to the mounting screws inside. If the box is loose remove the trucenter ASAP before you lost the box completely.
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Old 08-17-2017, 09:40 AM   #83
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TruCenter Solenoid Problems with Pics!

Sitting still with engine not running, but key on, you should hear a definite "Clunk" when you press the TrueCenter button. If not, the solenoid is not activating.

I'm told it's not serviceable by even a handy Do-It-Yourselfer, and in my case had to send it back to BlueOx for repair.

That being the case, you should do as myarmar suggest and just remove it as it's going to have to go back to the factory for repair.

As your box is loose anyway, pull it and bench test the solenoid (apply 12 volt power to it and see if it "Clunks"). Remember, there is a fuse and a relay between the switch and solenoid and any one of those could be the problem.
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Old 08-17-2017, 10:00 AM   #84
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OP, here. Glad to see the thread lives on but not glad that people are still having problems.

In one of my iterations with my TruCenter, the box did come completely off somewhere out West but they still took it back.

I was at the BlueOx factory in July 2016 and thought my TruCenter had gone bad as there was no 'clunk' when I hit the button. The tech there (Lane) looked at my install (which I did myself) and said that you can't use a spare hot wire in the dashboard but need to run a heavy gauge wire from the battery. Evidently the solenoid needs a lot of juice and the thin wires in the dash can't consistently supply it as they compete with other electrical loads. So even if you have power at the solenoid, it may not be enough.

He brought me some 10 gauge multi-strand wire, showed me where there were battery lugs in a front compartment behind my fuses and I rewired the TruCenter. Voila the solenoid started clicking away.

I just went out to my coach to check for a click on the TruCenter. If I just put the ignition in ACC mode, no click. If I start the motor and let it run, the TruCenter provide a loud click. So you may want to test with your engine running.

Good luck!
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