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Old 08-28-2015, 05:48 PM   #15
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Don't forget you are going by axle weights. You really should have 4-corner weights.

Since you don't. Err on the side of caution. Add 5 -10 PSI.

The reason, one side of an axle can be, and most likely is, heavier than the other. If you just divide the axle weight in half, you are ignoring that and might be under pressure on one side.

We all know that an under pressure tire can heap up faster than a properly aired tire.

You may just see uneven wear on the tread.

Run them a few thousand miles and note tread wear. If it looks good, you probably have the pressure right.
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Old 08-28-2015, 06:03 PM   #16
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Placard states 82. Found it.
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Old 08-28-2015, 09:36 PM   #17
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It's often on the interior sidewall by the driver seat.
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Old 08-28-2015, 09:57 PM   #18
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It's often on the interior sidewall by the driver seat.
Yeah it was there. Hidden behind the curtains.
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Old 08-29-2015, 08:43 AM   #19
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Tireman9,

Why if the tire manufactures have a recommendation would you add another 5 or 10% to that number? Wouldn't they have taken all the factors in to make sure the pressure is correct, safe and won't cause damage to the tire?

This is just a for what it's worth question as I do add 5psi extra.
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Old 08-29-2015, 03:41 PM   #20
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Tireman9,

Why if the tire manufactures have a recommendation would you add another 5 or 10% to that number? Wouldn't they have taken all the factors in to make sure the pressure is correct, safe and won't cause damage to the tire?

This is just a for what it's worth question as I do add 5psi extra.
Did you by chance fly for Emery? I was a DC-8 Cappie there.
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Old 08-30-2015, 09:39 AM   #21
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No, I flew for Buffelo as a PFE during the Emery/Burlington days then went to Kalitta starting as a PHE then up front for the next almost 17 years til I got to old for the fed's (65). Twenty years AF, twelve at Travis and four at Dover as a PFE.

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Old 08-30-2015, 10:05 AM   #22
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Tireman9,

Why if the tire manufactures have a recommendation would you add another 5 or 10% to that number? Wouldn't they have taken all the factors in to make sure the pressure is correct, safe and won't cause damage to the tire?

This is just a for what it's worth question as I do add 5psi extra.
I am guessing Tireman9 will respond with "to not have to constantly chase ambient temperature and altitude fluctuations" The tire manufacture (Tireman9 can verify) is most likely based on "standard conditions" I am not sure what "standard conditions" are but would guess something like Barometric pressure of 29.92 and ambient temperature of 68 or 70 degrees. Thus, if you add 5 or 10% you won't have to worry about being underinflated when starting out on a cold morning or making an overnight stop at higher altitudes. At the same time you are not running the tires based on max weight rating of the axles and/or max gross weight of the MH.

In my case I am approximately 3,800lbs below gross weight, so I run my tires at 85-90 in the front and 105 in the rears, based on corner weights. This is well below 110 lbs all around that the placard (lawyer's sticker) calls for. This results in better handling and ride and gives me the largest, safe footprint for my tires which improves stopping distance/wet road performance.



Just my opinion,
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Old 08-30-2015, 10:30 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by dc8cappie View Post
Tireman9,

Why if the tire manufactures have a recommendation would you add another 5 or 10% to that number? Wouldn't they have taken all the factors in to make sure the pressure is correct, safe and won't cause damage to the tire?

This is just a for what it's worth question as I do add 5psi extra.
Tires are designed to meet published standardized tests. These tests are run on smooth test wheels (no pot holes or curbs) using calibrated pressure gauges with specific loading, speed and test chamber temperature controls.

My suggestion for adding 5% to 10% margin has been mentioned by STIK as "to not have to constantly chase ambient temperature and altitude fluctuations" which is a major part of why I make this suggestion.

Another part is that the requirements are based on an assumption that the operator will not operate above the published tire speed limit which for most RV applications is 75 mph or lower.

Would you accept the premise that operating any piece of equipment right at it's design limit will probably result in a shorter life than if you operate that same equipment at say 80% or 85% of its stated limit?

All I am trying to do is to address the complaint that tires don't seem to last as long as owners want. I know from the data that over half of RVs on the road have a tire and or axle in overload. I also know from my own testing at RV events that about 15% of RV owners are using pressure gauges that are off by more than 5psi.

So if you have tested your pressure gauge against an ISO laboratory standard and know your gauge is accurate to +/- 1.0 psi or less, AND you NEVER exceed the speed limit for your tires (this includes passing maneuvers), AND you NEVER load your RV such that any tire ever exceeds the load you used to calculate the minimum inflation, AND you NEVER hit a pot hole or drive over a curb, AND you ALWAYS keep your tire inflated to the stated CIP no matter the temperature or altitude PLUS you are willing to change tires at the end of the warranty period then you are more than welcome to ignore my suggestion and should get the warranty time with no tire failures.
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Old 08-30-2015, 10:34 AM   #24
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I am guessing Tireman9 will respond with "to not have to constantly chase ambient temperature and altitude fluctuations" The tire manufacture (Tireman9 can verify) is most likely based on "standard conditions" I am not sure what "standard conditions" are but would guess something like Barometric pressure of 29.92 and ambient temperature of 68 or 70 degrees. Thus, if you add 5 or 10% you won't have to worry about being underinflated when starting out on a cold morning or making an overnight stop at higher altitudes. At the same time you are not running the tires based on max weight rating of the axles and/or max gross weight of the MH.
In my case I am approximately 3,800lbs below gross weight, so I run my tires at 85-90 in the front and 105 in the rears, based on corner weights. This is well below 110 lbs all around that the placard (lawyer's sticker) calls for. This results in better handling and ride and gives me the largest, safe footprint for my tires which improves stopping distance/wet road performance.
Just my opinion,
Almost. Please don't confuse Chemistry lab "Standard Conditions of temperature and barometric pressure with the requirement that tires be at Ambient temperature. I occasionally run into those that want to adjust the inflation in the tables to some assumed "lab standard" when Ambient temperature and prevailing barometric pressure are the intended conditions.
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Old 08-30-2015, 10:02 PM   #25
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Here is Goodyears RV tire pressure chart. Just follow the instructions on how to figure the pressure you need.

http://www.goodyearrvtires.com/pdfs/rv_inflation.pdf
Since you brought it up, read the 2nd paragraph under Goodyear Tire Loading, which states:
"Tire pressure should never be reduced below the vehicle manufacturer's recommended levels to support load conditions in order to improve the ride quality of a vehicle. The difference in ride quality is not significant."
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