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Old 04-21-2014, 10:54 AM   #1
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Type of batteries needed

I have a 39' pusher that we always plug in to shore power. My 6V wet cells are cooked thanks to a inferior converter (which I plan to replace with a Progressive Dynamics). My question is, since we don't bonnydock at all, do I still need a high amp hour rated battery or would a pair of less expensive 6v AGM marine batteries work?
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Old 04-21-2014, 11:24 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TennesseeBob View Post
I have a 39' pusher that we always plug in to shore power. My 6V wet cells are cooked thanks to a inferior converter (which I plan to replace with a Progressive Dynamics). My question is, since we don't bonnydock at all, do I still need a high amp hour rated battery or would a pair of less expensive 6v AGM marine batteries work?
Below is a link to a good write up on batteries that makes for good bedtime reading.
You can replace your batteries with a good Golf Car Deep Cycle battery for under a hundred bucks each. For ease of installation, I suggest staying with the same type. With decent maintenance and a good PD converter they will last you for ten years. I have a PD converter and can tell you it works as advertised. Constant 13.6 VDC.

Battery Maintenance Facts
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Old 04-21-2014, 02:38 PM   #3
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A common size of 6V battery used in RVs are GC2 golf cart batteries. Sam's Club and Costco both typically sell 6V GC2 batteries for around $90 each, which is the same or slightly more than what you would pay for a marine battery at Walmart and considerably less than AGM batteries.

Marine batteries, at least the wet cells at Walmart, are also usually 12V which would require rewiring to hook up in parallel instead of series.
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Old 04-21-2014, 02:48 PM   #4
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Like you, we never boondocked so I just used the WalMart/Costco "dual purpose" batteries and they began to wear out very quickly.

Looking back, I wish I had followed the advice here on the forum and gotten good golf cart batteries from the start.

BTW, you mention "less expensive 6v AGM batteries"... I wasn't aware that "less expensive" AGM batteries existed.

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Old 04-21-2014, 05:56 PM   #5
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Since when are AGM batteries "Less Expensive" (they are the 2nd most expensive Lead Acid I know of. OPTIMA which is a sub class of AGM holds the top spot).

Yes you can get by with a Group 31 (or even a Group 29) Maintenance free if you always have power when you camp.. But what happens when the campground suffers a power fail?

My recommendation is a nice pair of DEKA replacements for what you have now.. but that's like 300 bucks.

But then so are AGMs


Note also that I have been in a campground where the power failed, TWICE (over the course of years) once was a storm outage, short lived, the other time Digger O'Gray (Ok so his real name was Mr. Gray) Was digging a ditch to pour some concrete in when he dug right through the PRIMARY,, yes, the PRIMARY power feed to the park.

That is like 40,000 volts folks... OOPS. How to fry a backhoe.
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Old 04-24-2014, 01:24 PM   #6
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Battery blessing request

My wife came home and announced we're the proud owners of a 2000 Itasca 32ft gasoline RV, and she got such a deal. After less than 6 weeks, it's been in the shop for 5 weeks initially for a brake inspection, and over $2000 later we're about to take a short weekend trip while we wait on dash air conditioner parts. When I took it to the shop, the automatic step worked; when I got there they did not. While reading on the forum about steps, it was mentioned by a participant that there may be low electrical power. That prompted me to check the batteries, and that's why I'm on this thread of the forum. I was taken aback when I opened the compartment on the steps. The 1st battery was an automotive cranking battery. The 2nd and 3rd were 27DCs. Good, right? However, the 3rd was dry, as in no caps, no liquid, and the top was cut and pried open (that's how I knew it was dry). From what I've read so far on this thread I am going to buy 2 new 29DCs (as opposed to 27DCs). Does this seem reasonable? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Old 04-24-2014, 01:42 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by peggwn View Post
My wife came home and announced we're the proud owners of a 2000 Itasca 32ft gasoline RV, and she got such a deal. After less than 6 weeks, it's been in the shop for 5 weeks initially for a brake inspection, and over $2000 later we're about to take a short weekend trip while we wait on dash air conditioner parts. When I took it to the shop, the automatic step worked; when I got there they did not. While reading on the forum about steps, it was mentioned by a participant that there may be low electrical power. That prompted me to check the batteries, and that's why I'm on this thread of the forum. I was taken aback when I opened the compartment on the steps. The 1st battery was an automotive cranking battery. The 2nd and 3rd were 27DCs. Good, right? However, the 3rd was dry, as in no caps, no liquid, and the top was cut and pried open (that's how I knew it was dry). From what I've read so far on this thread I am going to buy 2 new 29DCs (as opposed to 27DCs). Does this seem reasonable? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Sounds OK but before you buy, check the dimensions of the 29D to confirm they will fit your enclosure. Then, take a photo of your connections so you make sure to go back the same way.
Now, when you go to remove the old batteries, disconnect the Negative Cable first and then the Positive. Use the reverse procedure to re-install by putting the Positive on first and the Negative last.

Oh and by the way, tape the positive leads while you are doing the swap and clean.
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Old 04-24-2014, 10:03 PM   #8
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Cut cable with backhoe...

On telecom we refer that as "backhoe fade"...

Not as bad as the time someone hit a state level very high pressure gas transmission line near here.

Took some time to find what was left of the backhoe.
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Old 04-24-2014, 10:05 PM   #9
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Check voltage to ground on hot leads after disconnecting the grounds as you may have other sources of power present.
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Old 04-25-2014, 07:30 AM   #10
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Good 6v golf cart batteries are the way to go.
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Old 04-25-2014, 10:34 AM   #11
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Thanks for the guidance. Just an update, the other battery that still had the caps was virtually dry. It's a wonder any lights came on inside. I actually had checked the sizes - they are within 1/8" in any direction and we still have some wiggle room in the compartment. I did take photos to make sure, but honestly I don't know if I'd trust the previous owner's setup since they took such poor care of their equipment. I do plan on installing parallel so they'll be red-to-red and black-to-black AND then connected to the coach red first and black last. They are each 845 MCA, so total would be 12v 1690 MCA. I will tape the ends. I had thought of some chunks/pieces of packing foam and stabbing the ends inside, but I didn't know if they would isolate the currents enough. Thanks again. Butch and Peggy
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Old 04-25-2014, 10:36 AM   #12
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Thanks. I'll do that. Butch and Peggy
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Old 04-25-2014, 10:41 AM   #13
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That will be next time; I couldn't do as much research as I wanted since Peggy had already booked a hook-up for this coming weekend (she's evidently not worried about no power, just when and where), so I just went with a known situation for now. However, from what I've seen the 6Vs look kinda tall for our compartment. Thanks for the advice, though. Butch and Peggy
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Old 04-25-2014, 04:10 PM   #14
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Been getting by really good for the last 8 years with good old Interstate Deep cycle batteries, I think they was about $50 each.
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