Update

[bargeman]

EPDM Roof replacement on our 2005 Four Winds Majestic 28' Class C:

So DW and I removed the awning this morning. Removed the trim strips on both sides and the remainder of the rubber...

Removed AC unit and all staples. There are 3 roof panels affected by water and rot.

Started removing roof panels. Found 2 sheets 3/16" thick, stapled and glued.

Top one came off okay. Lower one is glued to rafters and insulation. Insulation is polystyrene- aka cheap styrofoam. Rafters are metal. Problem is the lower sheet of plywood would rather come apart, leaving a layer adhered to the rafters and insulation than be removed.

Any advice? So far I am using a 2" wood chisel to work the upper layers off, but this is slow going...

Also, previous roof underlap at the front cap was almost 2 feet!!! Any thoughts on why?

My understanding is that the front cap underlap is 6" or so with similar overlap on the rear cap.

Last one, I'm going to have to repair or replace the ceiling skin in the shower... Was considering something like shelf paper or wallpaper for bathrooms.

Thank you

[mel s]

Originally Posted by bargeman

EPDM Roof replacement on our 2005 Four Winds Majestic 28' Class C:

So DW and I removed the awning this morning. Removed the trim strips on both sides and the remainder of the rubber...
Removed AC unit and all staples. There are 3 roof panels affected by water and rot.
Started removing roof panels. Found 2 sheets 3/16" thick, stapled and glued.
Top one came off okay. Lower one is glued to rafters and insulation. Insulation is polystyrene- aka cheap styrofoam. Rafters are metal. Problem is the lower sheet of plywood would rather come apart, leaving a layer adhered to the rafters and insulation than be removed.
Any advice? So far I am using a 2" wood chisel to work the upper layers off, but this is slow going...

bargeman
Use an "oscillating multi-tool", Oscillating Multi-Tool, with a "sraper blade" attached: 2 in. High Carbon Steel Multi-Tool Rigid Scraper Blade
Mel
'96 Safari

[RVThere]

Have you tried a hand held belt sander to remove the glued wood? May allow you a finer touch when you get close to those metal supports.

[bargeman]

I don't have either... Just a small quarter sheet orbital sander… But I like both ideas between the oscillating multi tool and the small belt sander… Which do you think would work better

[beenthere]

well not what others may do but i would leave it and get the right size ply to make fairly level..does not have to be exact as i woudl go the next 1/16th .. and glue it with water proof elmers or gorrilla...but have to have bottom stuff straight and positioned correctily

[bargeman]

@beenthere.... I wish I had a nickel for every time I thought of that but the problem I keep running into is that I've already cropped out most of the damaged wood and that's about 25 - 30% of that lower sheet…

[bargeman]

Especially since they appreciate came up fairly easily…

[bargeman]

So I bought the $89 Porter cable oscillating multi tool with three spare wood blades… We will see how this works in the morning…

[beenthere]

well i was a builder contractor until '03 then opened a retail hobby store..and i have done that a few times but hind site never makes ya feel good eh ?

[bargeman]

@beenthere <chuckle > hindsight... But wouldn't I have had to get rid of the rotten wood?

[bargeman]

FWIW oscillating tool was too difficult to be consistent with... Depending on the blade it would float up or dig in... 1-1/2 wood chisel won out. About 2 - 3 hours to de-laminate a sheet of plywood, leaving only the "skin"...

[bargeman]

All damaged wood removed. New FAn-tastic fan for shower. Rotten and moldy shower skylight framing removed. New frame and insulation installed in shower ceiling. 3 sheets of 3/8" plywood down. One more to go and I can start my Luan skin...