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Old 05-13-2014, 06:32 AM   #1
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UPDATE: On my RV building plans

UPDATE: On my RV building plans

Well, you spoke..... and I listened.

Thank you to all those that provided feedback to me on my RV building plans. Your ideas and suggestions have been very helpful. Some of the things pointed out to me were;

- My trailer was too high. (This was a rendering error and I corrected it) The actual trailer should come in at no more than 11' now.

- I didn't have enough storage. Now I added a storage cabinet over the desk and an access door to storage below the trailer in the back.

- Someone even pointed out that my tongue was not in the right spot and I corrected that.

If you haven't seen my plans to build an RV or you want to see the rendering revisions I made please go to: MY RV PLANS If you have any more suggestions, ideas or feedback I would greatly appreciate it.

Fondly, -Darla
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Old 05-13-2014, 05:18 PM   #2
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I have several thoughts.

First, have you tried to estimate the tongue weight as a percentage of total weight to see if it will be ok? There are several construction details that could be important variables, 1) location of the grey and fresh water tanks (and typical amount of liquid), 2) location of the roof A/C. Also, location of storage areas and where heavy items are placed.

Second is ground clearance. Cargo trailers are designed for a low floor height that may not be suitable for some RV situations.

And a related third issue is size of the grey/fresh water tanks. The frames of cargo trailers are thick gauge steel, but maybe just 4 inches high (again to minimize floor height). On the other hand, RV frames are at least 6 inches tall, but frequently 8 or more inches tall. Finding and fitting large tanks less than 4 inches tall will be a challenge. Or, hanging taller tanks below the frame reduces ground clearance and increases risk of damage.

Hopefully you have already considered these issues. With torsion axles, it is ez to add a subframe, like an additional 4 inches, to protect standard height tanks and at the same time improve ground clearance.
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Old 05-13-2014, 06:47 PM   #3
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Here's an off-the-wall suggestion. Consider placing the fresh water tank on the roof, using gravity-feed for water use. The Solar panels could be mounted atop the fresh water tank, both for energy collection and to shield the tanks from sunlight. This would limit your exposure to cold weather camping though.
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Old 05-13-2014, 08:39 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by dayle1 View Post
I have several thoughts.

First, have you tried to estimate the tongue weight as a percentage of total weight to see if it will be ok? There are several construction details that could be important variables, 1) location of the grey and fresh water tanks (and typical amount of liquid), 2) location of the roof A/C. Also, location of storage areas and where heavy items are placed.

Second is ground clearance. Cargo trailers are designed for a low floor height that may not be suitable for some RV situations.

And a related third issue is size of the grey/fresh water tanks. The frames of cargo trailers are thick gauge steel, but maybe just 4 inches high (again to minimize floor height). On the other hand, RV frames are at least 6 inches tall, but frequently 8 or more inches tall. Finding and fitting large tanks less than 4 inches tall will be a challenge. Or, hanging taller tanks below the frame reduces ground clearance and increases risk of damage.

Hopefully you have already considered these issues. With torsion axles, it is ez to add a subframe, like an additional 4 inches, to protect standard height tanks and at the same time improve ground clearance.

i all so feel if your going to make if your way then i would really make it from the ground up as with that you can add a lower floor so the tanks have some thing to set on

1.5 box still and 3in C for the frame like i used in the roof of my class A on here

i have made a hand full of trailers in my day and a few RVs

i really dont think you well be happy with how most cargo trailer are made and the side walls well have a hard time holding every thing you want

most
cargo trailers use 2 side ed tap for water proofing and only hold up for a few years

you can get full side walls from like EMT here in lakeland FL for like 150$ each 5x12 and stake them for water proofing and there not as thin as you would find on a
cargo trailer for help on sound proofing

if you do stay with a
cargo trailer add some still to stop the AC from falling in the roof and the added lbs of the solar panels and ac unit and cabinets well pop the front facing wall add still there as well as in a X or your going to get like some RVs do and pop the windshield out


all in all your doing the same thing i am but i am making a class A and on your webiste you are right get out there see all you can
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Old 05-13-2014, 09:16 PM   #5
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From: Darla

DAYLE:
Thanks for the extensive comments, especially the feedback on the tanks. That has me thinking about the frame thickness. Youíve got some great points about the weights and locations. Iím expecting the professional RV builder to not let me exceed safe towing parameters.

I have not estimated the tongue weight, but I recently started understanding itís importance as a building issue. I was hoping to install extra batteries on the tongue to give me some power reserves, but those things are pretty heavy and I am now questioning whether I can actually do that. What I can tell you is that I have based the tongue part of my design including the batteries, the battery rack and the LP tanks on the Forest River Work & Play 18EC which is pretty close to the structure I want to have built.

Forest River W&P 18EC

As for the tank placement I was hoping I could take advantage of the additional space the raised floor height (to get me a flat floor over the wheel wells) will provide. While I may have over estimated my desired tanks sizes in my specifications I want to have the largest fresh water tank I could safely tow.

Where I thought my tanks could go.

The location of the roof a/c is going to be dead center of the vehicle. Iím hoping that will facilitate the best cooling position, the best weight distribution and the best placement so that the solar panels can be installed around it. I am now debating how much air conditioner I will really need in my space 15,13.5 or 9 k btuís? (Iím one of these people that uses air conditioning right up until I see snow :ó). I will be using a generator to run the a/c when I am not connected to hook ups. I will most likely get one of the 3000wt Honda or Yamaha models with the starter boost.

- Other than the Corian counter top I donít think there are really any heavy weight interior items I will be transporting. The kind of cargo trailer I want to use is the type they use to transport cars (sometimes 2 at a time) so I wonder if the cabinetry I want to install is really a factor.

RAY, IN
Water tanks on the roof? Geez, I donít think Iíve ever seen or heard of that. I am not even sure an RV roof could support that kind of weight in motion.... and that would change the center of gravity.
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Old 05-13-2014, 09:30 PM   #6
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TERRY

I agree that there are some cheaply made cargo trailers out there.... I’ve seen a few. While I use the term “cargo trailer” I’m really hoping to build this like a truck without the engine. (A high grade of aluminum exterior, a solid framing, well insulated, etc.) I intend to go high end on the trailer structure like what they might use to transport expensive race cars across the country.

Terry, please tell me more about the build project you are working on. And thanks again for your feedback.
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Old 05-14-2014, 06:54 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by myrvplans View Post
DAYLE:

The location of the roof a/c is going to be dead center of the vehicle. Iím hoping that will facilitate the best cooling position, the best weight distribution and the best placement so that the solar panels can be installed around it. I am now debating how much air conditioner I will really need in my space 15,13.5 or 9 k btuís? (Iím one of these people that uses air conditioning right up until I see snow :ó). I will be using a generator to run the a/c when I am not connected to hook ups. I will most likely get one of the 3000wt Honda or Yamaha models with the starter boost.

Small area, well insulated, few windows, 9k btu will be sufficient. Get highest efficiency possible and a 2kw generator will work. Anyway, the A/C doesn't need to be centered, it will cool great in any location. Hence, pick a spot that helps achieve best tongue weight. Rear location might offset heavy batteries and provide slightly less noise in sleeping area. But who can tell for sure w/o doing a weight analysis and you can't expect the RV builder to do that work unless you are willing to pay extra and give the builder freedom to change plans as needed.
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