Using an electric heater in your RV?

[FatChance]

With winter conditions starting, I wanted to start a thread about using electric heaters in your RV, especially if you use it to keep your RV's water system from freezing while you are not using it.

First, be aware if your heater has digital or mechanical controls. Digital will probably have buttons and analog will probably have a switch and/or a rotating knob(s).

Why does this matter?

If there is any interruption of power, even for an instant, a digital controlled heater will not turn on again by itself. So, if you are using a heater in the RV or it's water bay to keep it from freezing and you lose power for a minute and the heater does not come back on, whatever you were protecting from freezing will probably freeze.

Some people connect their electric heater on a Thermocube. A digital controlled heater will not turn on if using a Thermocube.

Test your heater to be sure. Plug it in, turn it on, unplug it and plug it back in. Did it come back on or not?

Another issue with digital controlled electric heaters is if it ever runs on MSW (modified sine wave) power from your inverter, the electronics in the digital controls will probably overheat, causing damage to the heater and potentially a fire. So, if you have the expectation that your RV's inverter will ensure the heater will keep functioning in case of a power outage, be aware of the very real fire danger.

We full-time and spend the winters in cold places. I keep an electric heater with mechanical controls using a Thermocube in our coach's basement for emergency heat back up. I know it will work and work safely. If you are depending on electric heat, educate yourself in selecting and using your electric heater.

[BruceNeu]

Originally Posted by FatChance

With winter conditions starting, I wanted to start a thread about using electric heaters in your RV, especially if you use it to keep your RV's water system from freezing while you are not using it.

First, be aware if your heater has digital or mechanical controls. Digital will probably have buttons and analog will probably have a switch and/or a rotating knob(s).

Why does this matter?

If there is any interruption of power, even for an instant, a digital controlled heater will not turn on again by itself. So, if you are using a heater in the RV or it's water bay to keep it from freezing and you lose power for a minute and the heater does not come back on, whatever you were protecting from freezing will probably freeze.

Some people connect their electric heater on a Thermocube. A digital controlled heater will not turn on if using a Thermocube.

Test your heater to be sure. Plug it in, turn it on, unplug it and plug it back in. Did it come back on or not?

Another issue with digital controlled electric heaters is if it ever runs on MSW (modified sine wave) power from your inverter, the electronics in the digital controls will probably overheat, causing damage to the heater and potentially a fire. So, if you have the expectation that your RV's inverter will ensure the heater will keep functioning in case of a power outage, be aware of the very real fire danger.

We full-time and spend the winters in cold places. I keep an electric heater with mechanical controls using a Thermocube in our coach's basement for emergency heat back up. I know it will work and work safely. If you are depending on electric heat, educate yourself in selecting and using your electric heater.

Any ideas or recommendations for electric space heaters? Brands, price, and sellers...

[FatChance]

Depends on what you want it for? Supplemental heat in the bedroom while you are in the coach? Maintaining minimum temperature while in winter storage? I usually get the different type of electric heaters we use from Walmart or Home Depot. I don't think brand matters much as long as they are UL approved. ALL electric heaters are rated at 1500 watts or less. One 1500 watt heater will not produce more heat than any other 1500 watt heater, though they may distribute the heat differently. Radiant or fan powered. Determine how you want to use it, educate yourself on different options and take your pick. Anyone who says "I bought XYZ and it is the best" is not giving you helpful advice.

[Busskipper]

Originally Posted by FatChance

With winter conditions starting, I wanted to start a thread about using electric heaters in your RV, especially if you use it to keep your RV's water system from freezing while you are not using it.

First, be aware if your heater has digital or mechanical controls. Digital will probably have buttons and analog will probably have a switch and/or a rotating knob(s).

Why does this matter?

If there is any interruption of power, even for an instant, a digital controlled heater will not turn on again by itself. So, if you are using a heater in the RV or it's water bay to keep it from freezing and you lose power for a minute and the heater does not come back on, whatever you were protecting from freezing will probably freeze.

Some people connect their electric heater on a Thermocube. A digital controlled heater will not turn on if using a Thermocube.

Test your heater to be sure. Plug it in, turn it on, unplug it and plug it back in. Did it come back on or not?

Another issue with digital controlled electric heaters is if it ever runs on MSW (modified sine wave) power from your inverter, the electronics in the digital controls will probably overheat, causing damage to the heater and potentially a fire. So, if you have the expectation that your RV's inverter will ensure the heater will keep functioning in case of a power outage, be aware of the very real fire danger.

We full-time and spend the winters in cold places. I keep an electric heater with mechanical controls using a Thermocube in our coach's basement for emergency heat back up. I know it will work and work safely. If you are depending on electric heat, educate yourself in selecting and using your electric heater.

Good bit of Info

Thanks, will help many out,

Analog is for RV's

[MingusPirate]

In spite of all the purposes for use of an electric heater, the biggest concern is safety. We bought a Honeywell tower heater. The reason is it has several safety features not necessarily found in other heaters, and not in the one that was rated #1 by consumer reports. The first safety feature is a tip-over switch that shuts the heater off when tipped over. Second is the infrared sensor on the front that shuts it off if something comes within 2" to 3". Good for cats, papers falling in front, etc. Third is the melting device on the heater core itself. If the fan quits, the thermostat sticks, or the core gets full of dust, the melting device melts and shuts down the heater. At that point the heater is dead, but your RV is not burning. The only complaint is that the deadband for the heater is +/- 2 degrees. BTW this heater outran the Bob Villa heater and kept the place warm and it was around $80.

[KanzKran]

Originally Posted by FatChance

ALL electric heaters are rated at 1500 watts or less. One 1500 watt heater will not produce more heat than any other 1500 watt heater, though they may distribute the heat differently. Radiant or fan powered.

Excellent point, and a pet peeve of mine - manufacturers' claims of higher efficiency over another brand or type. ALL the energy into the unit ends up as heat, including the little bit a fan uses to move air, as friction turns that air motion into heat, too. Same with radiant type heaters, though aiming it out a window means a lot of it literally goes out the window. A 1500W heater that's actually drawing 1500 watts is outputting 1500 Joules/s or 5118 BTU/hr or whatever other units you like.

There can be efficiency consideration in terms of the best use of that energy, like running a little fan powered space heater in a garage and not feeling immediate warmth vs using the same 1500W in a radiant unit which is shining on you and making you feel warm as long as you're in the beam (like Home Depot checkout lanes in the north), but in the end, all the heat is going into the space.

[HR2004]

I use a small tower heater when we are on board and the old fashion milk house heater when we are sitting at home. I do take them apart 2 times a year and get the dust out and a drop of oil on the fan motor shaft. Amazing how much stuff gets sucked into them.

[Dasmoeturhead]

$16.00 Comfort Zone 1500 watt ceramic heater works for us quite well.

[twogypsies]

Keep in mind that propane heaters are excellent - a nice constant heat.

[ThePowells]

We use an oil filled radiator type heater with the onboard LP set about 5 degrees cooler as a back up.

[bamaboy473]

Before the Hurricane Heat system got repaired (diesel-fired zone forced-air heating) we used two 1500w space heaters in our MH. Anything less than 30 degrees outside and we were fetching the second blanket.

The 2800w SW inverter somehow kept us from using the 50A that fed the coach, though. If two heaters were On, then the refer and HWH had to be placed to LP if we were to make coffee or microwave something.

Admittedly, my bride doesn't like rules, so having bacon/eggs/coffee/rolls/heat/hot water was what she expected. I'm just along for the ride....and to re-set trip fuses as they happen.

As far as the OP, what others have said is the answer, 1500w = 1500w

[Ray,IN]

Originally Posted by twogypsies

Keep in mind that propane heaters are excellent - a nice constant heat.

And they add moisture to the inside air, sometimes good, often bad.

[bamaboy473]

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

And they add moisture to the inside air, sometimes good, often bad.

While not affected by LP heating, can you tell us why it increases humidity? Seems that this might be a good thing in low-humidity climates...and that they are most prone to cold weather.


What am I missing?

[Ray,IN]

Originally Posted by bamaboy473

While not affected by LP heating, can you tell us why it increases humidity? Seems that this might be a good thing in low-humidity climates...and that they are most prone to cold weather.


What am I missing?

The main byproduct of burning LPG is water. During cold weather most RV's are prone to condensation problems on cooler exterior walls, especially in closed cabinets on exterior walls.