Using Regulator for Black Water Flush?

[Raining Star]

Do I need to have a pressure regulator attached when using my black water flush on my 1999 Winnebago Chieftain 36L?
Common sense would say the more pressure the better, but is that how they are built?

[Gary RVRoamer]

I wouldn't be concerned one way or the other. My regulator is set for 60 psi and I don't see many places with more pressure than that anyway. Note that the static pressure might be higher, but as soon as the water starts flowing it typically drops substantially. If you have a pressure gauge on your hook-up, watch it and see.

Flow arte (gallons/minute) might be a concern, though. If you have one of those small, inline regulators sold at most RV stores, it is probably limited to about 2 gpm. A "whole house" type regular would be 2x-5x that.

[glarnold]

In my opinion, having a regulator in the black tank line is not necessary. In fact, I prefer it not there. As you said, the more pressure, the more flush.

That being said, the one thing I strongly recommend is to DISCONNECT the hose from the black tank flush valve as soon as you finish flushing. I have seen parks with pressure well over 110, and a little pressure at that black tank flush valve can overcome the backflow valve and provide more pressure than you want, inside.

One thing I have often wondered - is how parks that prohibit any "Y" connections on water lines, think you can flush the black tank?

GL Arnold

[Raining Star]

Originally Posted by glarnold

One thing I have often wondered - is how parks that prohibit any "Y" connections on water lines, think you can flush the black tank?
GL Arnold

That's why I've learned to first run the water, and then to spray all the faucets and fittings with Lysol before connecting my hoses, and later before storing equipment.

[webslave]

I'll buck the trend here. I use a pressure regulator on all of the fittings in my trailer (I attach it at the spigot first and take it off last). Most every "third party" rinser I've encountered has high pressure warnings and the manufacturers use off the shelf rinsers, they aren't "custom made" to extreme specs (nothing in an RV is "over engineered). IIRC, the Tornado says not to exceed 45 psi. While initial blush would tell you that the more, the merrier, the reality is that these flushers are hooked to the same type plumbing lines as your other water devices and the end of the flusher is quite often plastic with tiny holes in it; the result is the same as holding your thumb over the end of a garden hose. Excessive pressure isn't needed and can literally blow the end off the rinser (picture a cork in an air gun) and a friend of mine did exactly that with one of his rinsers.

My Watts is set for 50 psi. That's what goes in the shore inlet and what is used on the rinser. Getting to the rinser to replace it because of one campground that has 100 psi or better (the highest I ever encountered was 125 psi out of an irrigation pump assembly that the CG was using, left over from when it was a working farm). Considering that, on top of that, your are talking about a 14 year old coach... Your rig, your call, but, I run a Watts regulator at 50 psi on every bit of water going to my trailer.

[MSHappyCampers]

No, I want all the pressure I can get on the black tank flusher! If I pop a water line it will be easy to replace, but I am really not concerned that it will ever happen.

[UFO Pilot]

My black tank flusher won't work with excessive pressure (flow stops) so I use a regulator all of the time.

[Ed-Sommers]

If you are a weekender, it won't hurt. If you are a full timer, flushing, or cleaning of the black tank is not only needed, but can be a curse.

IMHO

Ed

[RickO]

Originally Posted by glarnold

That being said, the one thing I strongly recommend is to DISCONNECT the hose from the black tank flush valve as soon as you finish flushing. I have seen parks with pressure well over 110, and a little pressure at that black tank flush valve can overcome the backflow valve and provide more pressure than you want, inside.

One thing I have often wondered - is how parks that prohibit any "Y" connections on water lines, think you can flush the black tank?

GL Arnold

I certainly agree about disconnecting the flush hose as soon as the job is done, but I don't think I understand the point about the high park pressure being a problem if the hose is left connected. Wouldn't the tap be turned off? Still a bad idea to leave the hose connected since, if the tap were to be turned on the black tank would quickly fill and just as quickly over flow. Don't ask how I know.

As for the "Y" connection... I've always been a bit anal about these things but I carry a brown colored hose which I use only for tank flushing and it's never connected to the domestic water supply at the same time as a white hose.

Rick

[glarnold]

Originally Posted by RickO

I certainly agree about disconnecting the flush hose as soon as the job is done, but I don't think I understand the point about the high park pressure being a problem if the hose is left connected. Wouldn't the tap be turned off? Still a bad idea to leave the hose connected since, if the tap were to be turned on the black tank would quickly fill and just as quickly over flow. Don't ask how I know.

As for the "Y" connection... I've always been a bit anal about these things but I carry a brown colored hose which I use only for tank flushing and it's never connected to the domestic water supply at the same time as a white hose.

Rick

Agree with you completely. But if the tap connection is just a little bit on, it puts enough pressure on the back flow prevention valve to allow excessive pressure on the water line (which can result in a slow drip, drip, drip that can awaken you at 5:00 am, and moisten your bathroom and bedroom floors, or in a tank overflow). Feel free to ask me how I know.

About the brown hose...Do you connect it directly to the park water supply? And are you able to rinse and flush at the same time?

On another note. On mine, when the black rinse is on, the supply pressure drops to under 20.

GL Arnold

[RickO]

Originally Posted by glarnold

Agree with you completely. But if the tap connection is just a little bit on, it puts enough pressure on the back flow prevention valve to allow excessive pressure on the water line (which can result in a slow drip, drip, drip that can awaken you at 5:00 am, and moisten your bathroom and bedroom floors, or in a tank overflow). Feel free to ask me how I know.

About the brown hose...Do you connect it directly to the park water supply? And are you able to rinse and flush at the same time?

On another note. On mine, when the black rinse is on, the supply pressure drops to under 20.

GL Arnold

Did your floors get wet because the toilet overflowed when the flush was left on a little bit? I thought the backflow valve was to prevent water from passing from the black tank back INTO the domestic water supply so there would be no flow restriction on water entering the tank.

As for the brown hose, yes, I do connect it directly to the park water supply after disconnecting the white hose. I spray the connections well before reinstalling the white hose. I am able to flush (dump) the black tank while water is flowing through the San T Flush. I typically dump while the flush is running... let it rinse a few minutes while the flush is running... then close the valve and let the tank fill at least half way with fresh water before dumping again. I then add about 10 gallons of fresh water to my 57 gallon black tank before disconnecting the brown hose. I NEVER leave the brown hose connected when not in use.

Rick

[glarnold]

What I found at 5 am was a drip-drip inside the wall by the bathroom sink, wetting the floor. No black tank water involved. I then found the valve to the black tank rinse hose barely on. It's a hard turn, very small handle, and temp was below freezing. Campground pressure was way above the 50 of my regulator, causing a very small leak in the connection to the bathroom sink, inside the wall. When the hose was disconnected, the drip stopped. No harm, no foul. Lesson learned.

Don't rush the basics. Cold or no.

GL Arnold

[baraff]

I blew apart a Tornado rinser that I had installed in my old travel trailer. This happened at Huntington Beach State Park in SC. The pressure snapped off the fitting flush with the tank. What a mess. So yes, I would use a regulator.
Our current motorhome, I use an elbow with a hose port. Did not have that option with the trailer, very poor design.

[MaxTurner1]

I too didn't feel I needed protection on the black tank flush, until we were at a CG with more than plenty pressure. I hooked it up, turned water on and "Blamo" = Big Bang. It blew up the internal spray assembly. I use a pressure limiter on any water going into our coach.