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Old 05-15-2016, 01:36 PM   #29
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After looking at all the options, I'm leaning toward putting a 90-degree metal extension on the valve stem, then a flexible extension on that, then out through a hole in the outside wheel with a "L" bracket attaching it to the hub. I think I can use a 7" flexible extension so it should be pretty sturdy. What do you guys think?
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Old 05-15-2016, 03:48 PM   #30
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Joe,

Too many connections where problems could occur. Just buy a longer flexible extension that will go from the existing valve on the inside wheel to the L bracket on the hub.

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Old 05-15-2016, 04:23 PM   #31
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Richard, I wanted to do that but I don't think there is enough clearance from the valve stem to the back side of the outside wheel to bend the flexible extension into the 90 degree turn that would be required.
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Old 05-15-2016, 04:39 PM   #32
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Joe, do you have 19.5 or 22.5 wheels? The reason I ask is the link you posted for the extensions are for 19.5 wheels. Anyway, what I did was to have metal valves installed with braided extensions mounted to a lug nut. So far, no problems.
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Old 05-15-2016, 07:43 PM   #33
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Joe, do you have 19.5 or 22.5 wheels? The reason I ask is the link you posted for the extensions are for 19.5 wheels. Anyway, what I did was to have metal valves installed with braided extensions mounted to a lug nut. So far, no problems.

This is for a neighbor's 2015 Itasca Navion 24J. I'm not sure what size wheels they are, probably 19.5, definitely not 22.5! She will be home tomorrow and I will check further then!
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Old 05-17-2016, 10:07 AM   #34
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Standard woven steel extender hose sets come with one hose with a 90 degree end so I'm not sure what the problem is. I have found that if you attach the outer end of the hose as seen in my pictures, using the supplied "L" brackets pop riveted to the hub cap or wheel simulator there should be no problems. The longer hose with straight ends comes from the inner dual.

I am less confident about the large rubber donuts that stick in the wheel hole doing a good job of retaining the extender hose.

When tightening the hose extenders to the valves on the wheel you need to tighten just finger tight. Do not use pliers as the extra force can tear the small O ring seals that are in the hose ends. I usually tighten to where there is no air leak plus 1/4 turn. I also use soap water to confirm no slow leakage but of course my TPMS will also confirm there is no leakage.

When I was working with Indy race teams I learned an important lesson. There are many short-cuts that people can take to do a job and sometimes that's good enough but in the long run but it's pretty hard to beat those that always try and choose the best way to do a job.

IMO Bolt in metal valve stems + woven wire hose extenders that are bolted down with the L brackets + TPMS may be a bit more work to do the first time but if you do the job right there will be no need to do it over.
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Old 05-17-2016, 10:24 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by Tireman9 View Post
Standard woven steel extender hose sets come with one hose with a 90 degree end so I'm not sure what the problem is. I have found that if you attach the outer end of the hose as seen in my pictures, using the supplied "L" brackets pop riveted to the hub cap or wheel simulator there should be no problems. The longer hose with straight ends comes from the inner dual.

I am less confident about the large rubber donuts that stick in the wheel hole doing a good job of retaining the extender hose.

When tightening the hose extenders to the valves on the wheel you need to tighten just finger tight. Do not use pliers as the extra force can tear the small O ring seals that are in the hose ends. I usually tighten to where there is no air leak plus 1/4 turn. I also use soap water to confirm no slow leakage but of course my TPMS will also confirm there is no leakage.

When I was working with Indy race teams I learned an important lesson. There are many short-cuts that people can take to do a job and sometimes that's good enough but in the long run but it's pretty hard to beat those that always try and choose the best way to do a job.

IMO Bolt in metal valve stems + woven wire hose extenders that are bolted down with the L brackets + TPMS may be a bit more work to do the first time but if you do the job right there will be no need to do it over.

Hi Roger! Thanks for the reply! The extension hoses with the 90-degree ends will be perfect, along with the "L" brackets to rivet to the hubs! I called Wheel Masters and they agreed to sell me the two hoses, part #9021, along with the brackets & nuts, for a total of $31.40 plus shipping!

I really appreciate your help and advice on this!
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Old 05-17-2016, 10:38 AM   #36
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This is a little off the subject but still pertains to our MH tires and inflation. My new FW and I am sure your MH's had warnings all over about not standing in front of the wheel when airing up.

I know where this comes from as I was a truck stop mechanic when I was in high school. The old two piece and one piece split rings were notorious for blowing off with explosive power. Many a mechanic was hurt and even killed when a split ring was not seated properly. We always used a tire cage to air them up and I saw my fair share of them blow off. Our tire cage had a significant bow to it. The issue was that once the tire was aired up and the ring properly seated there was little to no concern about it blowing off.

Regardless of this the warning is posted all over my literature. The manual even calls for using an extension that screws on the valve stem so you can air up from a distance.

Have any of you went to that level of safety for airing up your MH tires and if so what did you end up purchasing?
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Old 05-17-2016, 11:02 AM   #37
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Have any of you went to that level of safety for airing up your MH tires and if so what did you end up purchasing?
I use THIS little device when I air up my coach tires.

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Old 05-17-2016, 11:02 AM   #38
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Hi Roger! Thanks for the reply! The extension hoses with the 90-degree ends will be perfect, along with the "L" brackets to rivet to the hubs! I called Wheel Masters and they agreed to sell me the two hoses, part #9021, along with the brackets & nuts, for a total of $31.40 plus shipping!

I really appreciate your help and advice on this!
OK I trust the owner has a long stem pressure gauge to get to the inner dual. Also what do they do when addting air to the inner tire.

Don't firget to tell them to hold (support) the end of the hose extension when checking or adding air by hand as they can over stress the small L bracket mount if they push too hard.
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Old 05-17-2016, 11:06 AM   #39
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OK I trust the owner has a long stem pressure gauge to get to the inner dual. Also what do they do when addting air to the inner tire.

Don't firget to tell them to hold (support) the end of the hose extension when checking or adding air by hand as they can over stress the small L bracket mount if they push too hard.

These are for the inside dual tires. Nothing needed on the outer tires.
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Old 05-17-2016, 11:20 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by tim myers View Post
This is a little off the subject but still pertains to our MH tires and inflation. My new FW and I am sure your MH's had warnings all over about not standing in front of the wheel when airing up.

I know where this comes from as I was a truck stop mechanic when I was in high school. The old two piece and one piece split rings were notorious for blowing off with explosive power. Many a mechanic was hurt and even killed when a split ring was not seated properly. We always used a tire cage to air them up and I saw my fair share of them blow off. Our tire cage had a significant bow to it. The issue was that once the tire was aired up and the ring properly seated there was little to no concern about it blowing off.

Regardless of this the warning is posted all over my literature. The manual even calls for using an extension that screws on the valve stem so you can air up from a distance.

Have any of you went to that level of safety for airing up your MH tires and if so what did you end up purchasing?
Good observation. But before we get people too terrified to top off their tire inflation I feel it is important to point out the difference between inflating a tire from zero or re-inflating a tire that has been run with tire pressure that dropped 20% or more from the suggested inflation level.

With large tires (19.5 and larger) owners should always leave mounting and initial inflation or inflation after a tire was inspected for run flat or repaired to professionals who will use a safety cage. For simply adding a few psi I would just take reasonable precaution and be to off to the side of the tire and not right at the side of the tire & wheel. A short (3' or longer ) extension hose with clip on chuck would be a reasonable precaution for extra safety.

Harbor Freight has a $6 HOSE and $3 CHUCK that might work if someone felt the need.
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Old 05-17-2016, 11:23 AM   #41
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These are for the inside dual tires. Nothing needed on the outer tires.

OK.. Most duals have valve pointing out on the inner dual and pointing to center of vehicle on outer tire which are the ones needing some angle on the hose extender. But what ever allows the owner to more easily get to the tire for air check is good.
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Old 05-17-2016, 03:13 PM   #42
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Good observation. But before we get people too terrified to top off their tire inflation I feel it is important to point out the difference between inflating a tire from zero or re-inflating a tire that has been run with tire pressure that dropped 20% or more from the suggested inflation level.

With large tires (19.5 and larger) owners should always leave mounting and initial inflation or inflation after a tire was inspected for run flat or repaired to professionals who will use a safety cage. For simply adding a few psi I would just take reasonable precaution and be to off to the side of the tire and not right at the side of the tire & wheel. A short (3' or longer ) extension hose with clip on chuck would be a reasonable precaution for extra safety.

Harbor Freight has a $6 HOSE and $3 CHUCK that might work if someone felt the need.
I agree completely and as stated in my experience once the tire is aired up and the split ring in it's proper position it is safe.

Here is a good question. Aren't our tires now tubeless and most of the split ring wheels history? I hate to admit it but I haven't even looked at mine close enough to comment on that.
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