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Old 06-18-2019, 09:18 AM   #1
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Water Heater Wizardry electric help.

I have an SW6 DE Water Heater WITHOUT ELECTRIC. I don't understate that part but don't care as we use gas. Electric cost $.24 KWh here.

What I need help with is wiring a pilot light to the heater so I know when it is running on gas. We cannot hear it running as we did in the Wildcat 5er. That's how we knew we had plenty of hot water. Wife would hear it shut off and say go take a shower.

The red light stays on as long as the switch is on. Heater shuts on and off but light stays on. I want to locate the pilot light on the wall right above the heater in the bunkhouse.
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Old 06-18-2019, 10:14 AM   #2
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First, the red light should go off 15-18 seconds after the burner lights, so something is wired correctly on your heater. Once the controller senses a gas flame, it is supposed to shut the light off. However, fixing that doesn't solve your problem about when is the water hot enough to shower. Basically you want to know when the thermostat opens, meaning the water is hot. The simplest solution is to wire a pilot light to the closed side of the thermostat, so that it receives power when the thermostat is closed (water is being heated). The pilot remains on when the burner is running, so pilot Off means the water is now hot. Run the hot wire from the thermostat (see the service manual) to the pilot and then ground the other pilot wire to any convenient 12v ground wire or direct to the chassis.



Service manual for your heater: http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/subsw.pdf
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Old 06-18-2019, 10:42 AM   #3
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Or maybe even a simpler solution. Parallel a set of wires off of the gas valve solinoid and run them to a same voltage small pilot light and locate it wherever you want it.
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Old 06-18-2019, 12:37 PM   #4
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My suggestion, keep it simple. As posted by Gary, your light is wired incorrectly or the module is faulty as that light should be OUT when the heater is firing the gas boiler or reigniting during cycling. Inspect the connections for the light at the control module and if all looks good, replace the module if there is no way to test it. Call customer support, if necessary.
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Old 06-18-2019, 05:34 PM   #5
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Your heater is ALL messed up
Suburban SW6DE---that is the model for a Suburban Water heater 6 Gal Direct Spark ELECTRIC

The 'E' in model means Electric Option .....
Should have a 120V AC Set of t-stats (under the Push to Reset cover above gas valve (Left side/black wires)
Should have an ON/OFF Switch in outside compartment lower left area behind gas valve
Should have an oval cover over the element...behind gas burner tube/to right of On/Off Switch


***GAS only Model would be an SW6D






As stated...RED Light should come ON when first turning Gas Switch ON then go OFF when Flame Lights & PROVES it lit
(Turning ON and NOT going OFF means Flame didn't PROVE and DC to GAS Valve should have been dropped)


Sounds like your Circuit Board is Faulty


As for 'Indicator Light'
Here is the 12VDC wiring





oh..here is the 120VAC wiring
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Old 06-19-2019, 06:00 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer View Post
First, the red light should go off 15-18 seconds after the burner lights, so something is wired correctly on your heater. Once the controller senses a gas flame, it is supposed to shut the light off. However, fixing that doesn't solve your problem about when is the water hot enough to shower. Basically you want to know when the thermostat opens, meaning the water is hot. The simplest solution is to wire a pilot light to the closed side of the thermostat, so that it receives power when the thermostat is closed (water is being heated). The pilot remains on when the burner is running, so pilot Off means the water is now hot. Run the hot wire from the thermostat (see the service manual) to the pilot and then ground the other pilot wire to any convenient 12v ground wire or direct to the chassis.



Service manual for your heater: http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/subsw.pdf
Yep, I know about the light on light off operation but this as a gas only and just a lighted handle switch. light on when switch is on. Not a separate light that goes on and off like my last trailer. I did get a wiring diagram and will install a light on the 12 volt hot side of the T-stat. (Red wire). Thanks every body.

The switch outide bottm left is for 12 ignition.
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Old 06-19-2019, 06:06 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Your heater is ALL messed up
Suburban SW6DE---that is the model for a Suburban Water heater 6 Gal Direct Spark ELECTRIC

The 'E' in model means Electric Option .....
Should have a 120V AC Set of t-stats (under the Push to Reset cover above gas valve (Left side/black wires)
Should have an ON/OFF Switch in outside compartment lower left area behind gas valve
Should have an oval cover over the element...behind gas burner tube/to right of On/Off Switch


***GAS only Model would be an SW6D






As stated...RED Light should come ON when first turning Gas Switch ON then go OFF when Flame Lights & PROVES it lit
(Turning ON and NOT going OFF means Flame didn't PROVE and DC to GAS Valve should have been dropped)


Sounds like your Circuit Board is Faulty


As for 'Indicator Light'
Here is the 12VDC wiring





oh..here is the 120VAC wiring
I don't understand it either. No control board. No Electric to it. No breaker for WH. Seems to me it would have a different model #. but that is what is on the lable on the righj hand side. WH very accessible in bunk-room. I don't care about electric. Too costly in my seasonal park.
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Old 06-19-2019, 07:11 AM   #8
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Mistery solved.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cavie View Post
I don't understand it either. No control board. No Electric to it. No breaker for WH. Seems to me it would have a different model #. but that is what is on the lable on the righj hand side. WH very accessible in bunk-room. I don't care about electric. Too costly in my seasonal park.
Finally got time to look into this. Turns out I knew I wasn't crazy. PO changed out the WH. Electric wiring was rerouted and hidden behind the WH. Control box was TY-Warped onto the BACK SIDE of the heater against the outer wall out of sight. Why would you do that? Had to reach around back to find it. Breaker for WH was not labeled. Imagination that. When he was demonstrating the heater it was just happenstance that when he turned on the switch the gas kicked on at the very same time. I questioned it but he said it had to be on so we moved on. All is well in trailer land. I still need to put in a HEATING light as we cannot hear the WH from the inside of the trailer. I'm assuming the little dot light between the pump switch and the heater switch, that is with the tank levels, is the ignition light. On my Wildcat the heater sw and lighting was independent of anythisg else.

Thanks everyone for your help. Thank you OB for waking me up!
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Old 06-19-2019, 07:34 AM   #9
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Not to go too off topic but we've never had a need to time stat operation when taking a shower. As long as the heater is already hot, it doesn't matter where in the heating cycle the WH is when we shower.

I guess my question is, could it be a problem with the stat's differential? Not positive but I was thinking those clix on type switches were set for about a 20° differential. I could see a problem if that differential was more for some reason.
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Old 06-19-2019, 08:54 AM   #10
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Quote:
Or maybe even a simpler solution. Parallel a set of wires off of the gas valve solinoid and run them to a same voltage small pilot light and locate it wherever you want it.
Same thing. The thermostat closes to provide 12v power to the module (igniter) board and the module board then provides power to the gas solenoid. Choose whichever connection point is easiest to access.


Quote:
I did get a wiring diagram and will install a light on the 12 volt hot side of the T-stat. (Red wire).
Just to be clear, you want to connect to the red wire that runs from the thermostat to the module board in the diagram. Not the red wire that brings 12v power to the thermostat. The idea is that the light comes on when the while the water is being heated but goes off once it reaches the thermostat upper limit (water is hot).
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Old 06-19-2019, 10:59 AM   #11
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On/Off Switch in outside compartment.......Electric (Not for gas ignition)

Model # on label......SW6DE
That is Electric/propane

Sounds like previous owner just disabled the electric side not swapped water heaters --- otherwise no on/off switch in outside compartment or a label denoting it as a 'DE' model

Remove black oval cover behind/below gas valve and I bet there is a element




Not uncommon for 'installers' to slap the circuit board on a cabinet sidewall.
Circuit Board is for Propane control only with DSI
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