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Old 12-02-2014, 04:00 PM   #29
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It should really be a compression tank, and most of them are. That is a tank with a diagram in it to keep the air from absorbing all the water. If that happens, no expansion tank, just a large tank in the system that does no good.


You can mount one or more compression tanks anywhere on the discharge side of the pump. You can install as many as you desire. Your compression effect will be the sum of all the tanks you install.


In this case, more volume in the compression tank, the better, and it will be the sum of all the tanks.


The air bubble in the water heater will not help you at all on the cold water side of the system. Only the hot water line from the heater to the outlet will see or feel it.


Good Luck!
Wil
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Old 12-02-2014, 04:04 PM   #30
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I forgot to say,
Don't use a variable pump with a compression tank. In such a case, it is very likely that the pump will never be shut off by the pressure switch.


Use a constant speed pump with any compression tank.


Good Luck!
Wil
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Old 12-02-2014, 04:29 PM   #31
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As others have mentioned, the noise produced is a factor of where and how the pump is attached, and the hoses connected directly to it.

The water pump in my motorhome is located directly under my bed!! However, it is so quiet, I always thought it was located under the chassis, outside. It's bolted to a piece of plywood, which is in turn bolted to the floor, very solid, no vibration or resonating noise. The flexible reinforced hoses going in and out are colored blue and red and are not strapped or attached to anything.

Years ago I owned a Fleetwood Niagara Popup with a Sherflo pump under the slideout dinette. It originally sounded like a jackhammer at a construction site when it was working. It had very hard PEX tubing in and out, and it was bolted directly to the resonating particle board floor. I installed extra loops of PEX, some rubber washers between the floor and the pump, and the noise then sounded muffled enough to not wake anyone if they were asleep.
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Old 12-03-2014, 06:13 AM   #32
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I like to hear our water pump for those just in case moments. I must say it is very quiet. My question is, should there be air space left in the hot water heater? Our hot water flows much less than our cold water.
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Old 12-03-2014, 07:23 AM   #33
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The volume of the water in the tank will increase due to expansion as it comes up to temp. If you don't leave some air space in the WH, your lines are going to be exposed to whatever pressure it takes for the pop off valve to vent - there's nowhere else for it to go. Could be well over 60psi at that point...

Some, not all, WH installations have a check valve installed as a back flow preventer. That might reduce your flow on the hot side (especially if it's trapped some debris), or it could be something as simple as a kinked line.
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Old 12-05-2014, 07:58 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mojoracing View Post
I like to hear our water pump for those just in case moments. I must say it is very quiet. My question is, should there be air space left in the hot water heater? Our hot water flows much less than our cold water.
I have had the same problem when spending time in TX. The water is full of minerals. I had to shut my system down and remove the airaitors, and the faucet cartridge in some cases to remove the junk stopping the water flow. It is important that the water heater be drained ever few months and the at the scavenger rod be replaced when needed if you have one. I used a coat hanger to swab the inside of the tank when I had the drain plug out. We have not spent much time in TX with this coach and so far the problem is not near as bad.

When you are doing the cleaning it would be a good idea to place a mug or glass over each open faucet port, aiming the bottom of the glass at the sink, and get someone to briefly turn the water on. This will flush the pipes.

Also, check the instructions in your water heater manual about care and maintenance. The temperature/pressure valve needs to be exercised from time to time manually. When done correctly this adds a air gap back into the tank.

Hope you solve the water flow problem. Happy trails.

Rick Y
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Old 12-06-2014, 02:07 PM   #35
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UPDATE to the OP: Per several good suggestions, I mounted the pump onto a dense rubber mat. It was on a rubber mount already, but adding another layer of rubber couldn't hurt. Next, I bought 10' of clear tubing that is soft and flexible, cut into two 5' sections, added proper fasteners and connected it up.

In a word, Amazing. What used to sound like a jack-hammer now sounds like the guy next door is running his pump. My guess is a 75% reduction in noise.


You guys rock
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Old 12-06-2014, 02:13 PM   #36
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Pictures? Glad it worked for you! Enjoy the quiet.
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Old 12-06-2014, 07:36 PM   #37
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Bamaboy, the clear is fine for the intake side of the pump, but unless it's reinforced, it may not work out so well on the pressure side. Not for long anyway. -Al
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Old 12-06-2014, 10:43 PM   #38
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Boy I will tell ya that ours was the nosiest 32 year old pump around. I took and wraped the water supply lines that ran from the pump across the fresh water tank. I used that black foam tubing and then wired tied them together.
The pump and lines are 90 % quieter now
Ours is just screwed to the floor over the carpeting. If I was to take it off then slide a pcs of 3/4 plywood and then remount it that it would help with the 10% ?
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Old 12-07-2014, 07:42 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bamaboy473 View Post
UPDATE to the OP: Per several good suggestions, I mounted the pump onto a dense rubber mat. It was on a rubber mount already, but adding another layer of rubber couldn't hurt. Next, I bought 10' of clear tubing that is soft and flexible, cut into two 5' sections, added proper fasteners and connected it up.

In a word, Amazing. What used to sound like a jack-hammer now sounds like the guy next door is running his pump. My guess is a 75% reduction in noise.


You guys rock
Great work done. BUT. The clear tubing may not be rated for the water pressure you may encounter. You should be able to find white braided tubing the same size, like used on kitchen sprayers. This will do the same job but will hold up better.
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Old 12-07-2014, 12:09 PM   #40
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Boy I will tell ya that ours was the nosiest 32 year old pump around. I took and wrapped the water supply lines that ran from the pump across the fresh water tank. I used that black foam tubing and then wired tied them together.
The pump and lines are 90 % quieter now
Ours is just screwed to the floor over the carpeting. If I was to take it off then slide a pcs of 3/4 plywood and then remount it that it would help with the 10% ?
Tim
Once you have exhausted all of the common fixes, then you get to the "Law Of Diminishing Returns" trying to get that remaining 10%! You can input more and more fixes, but the gain in quietness gets less and less. Maybe a pair of noise canceling headphones will work?
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Old 12-07-2014, 12:36 PM   #41
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Is there a way to store pressure so the pump doesn't run after two seconds of use?
Is there such a thing as a noiseless pump?
bamaboy473
An "accumulator tank": http://www.menards.com/main/plumbing...391-c-8674.htm, "stores pressure".
If/when one is added to the fresh water system it will stop that irritating "pump run" after two seconds of water use.

However, if you had a "noiseless pump" there would be no way to tell if/when your pump was running needlessly.

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Old 12-08-2014, 05:45 PM   #42
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bamaboy473
An "accumulator tank": http://www.menards.com/main/plumbing...391-c-8674.htm, "stores pressure".
If/when one is added to the fresh water system it will stop that irritating "pump run" after two seconds of water use.

However, if you had a "noiseless pump" there would be no way to tell if/when your pump was running needlessly.

Mel
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Good Point, I'm going to leave as is,
Thanks, Tim

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