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Old 07-08-2015, 10:03 AM   #15
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We only use RV paper so maybe it's the water. We only take short trips and do no get the tank too full. I will try LOTS of water this trip.
Andrea ;
I do not own a class A but I am on my third fiver and have learn a lot over the years. I am also a fanatic when it comes to dumping the tanks and maintaining my RV.

So this is my procedure it will take all most a half hour to complete. I normally use full hook-ups sites only. So time is not of the essences. I use a flush king clear sewer connect port when connecting the sewer hose to the sewer tube on the RV. I also place a bucket under the sewer tube when connecting to collect any debris from the tube if necessary.

First: the black tank should not be dump until it is at least 2/3 full (unless the camper is being put into storage).
Second: when 2/3 full or more open the drain valve and let drain until it appears to be empty than close tightly. The following steps applies only to breaking camp.
Third: hook up and turn on black tank flush hose (separate hose from potable water hose) to black tank flush port if equipped.
Four: at the same time have another person dump between four and five buckets of water down toilet (10QT or larger bucket)
Five: wait until the water runs clear and then shut of the flushing water.
Six: now open gray tanks and let them drain, when water has completely stop. Close all valves and cap line.

Jim
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Old 07-08-2015, 01:05 PM   #16
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The valves should close no matter how much or little water you use.
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Old 07-08-2015, 03:46 PM   #17
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I have a clear plastic extension with a cap that has a hose connection .That way I have no surprise when removing the cap.If I see anything I can drain it thru the hose connection.
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Old 07-08-2015, 08:22 PM   #18
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We only use RV paper so maybe it's the water. We only take short trips and do no get the tank too full. I will try LOTS of water this trip.
That could be part of your problem. #1 use more water for each flush, there may not be enough fluid to move the solids out. #2 add enough water to bring the level to at least 3/4 full before you dump, you may have waste (whatever that may be) that is getting caught in the seal because of insufficient initial flow. Then last dump a couple buckets of water down the commode to flush it out further.
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Old 07-09-2015, 12:53 AM   #19
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Tank was 2/3 full when we drained. Then we held flush handle down for a good 5 minutes, then dumped that. We don't have any trips planned until the end of September but will likely take another short weekend before then. Fingers crossed that this method will work for us.
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Old 07-09-2015, 12:54 AM   #20
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I have a clear plastic extension with a cap that has a hose connection .That way I have no surprise when removing the cap.If I see anything I can drain it thru the hose connection.

How do you hook up to hose without leaking?
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Old 07-09-2015, 10:22 AM   #21
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If you have cabled 'T' handles...

Our last MH had four tanks, 2 forty gal. black and 2 forty gal. gray...all with 'T' handles and cables connected to the valves. Two of the 'T's
had no cushion(or 'spring back') indicating the valves were fully closed. Those two leaked, so I went to the valves and lengthened the travel of the cables on both. Now I had positive indication(spring back) that the valves were fully closed, and the leaking problem was solved.
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Old 07-09-2015, 11:15 PM   #22
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Our last MH had four tanks, 2 forty gal. black and 2 forty gal. gray...all with 'T' handles and cables connected to the valves. Two of the 'T's had no cushion(or 'spring back') indicating the valves were NOT fully closed. Those two leaked, so I went to the valves and lengthened the travel of the cables on both. Now I had positive indication(spring back) that the valves were fully closed, and the leaking problem was solved.
Forgot the 'not'.
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Old 07-09-2015, 11:57 PM   #23
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Our last MH had four tanks, 2 forty gal. black and 2 forty gal. gray...all with 'T' handles and cables connected to the valves. Two of the 'T's
had no cushion(or 'spring back') indicating the valves were fully closed. Those two leaked, so I went to the valves and lengthened the travel of the cables on both. Now I had positive indication(spring back) that the valves were fully closed, and the leaking problem was solved.

What do you mean by cushion or spring back?
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Old 07-10-2015, 10:50 AM   #24
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Get a ball valve on the drain cover and use it as a test and drain.

Place bucket under and open ball valve and drain whatever seeped in there .


When clear remove cover and proceed.
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Old 07-10-2015, 12:34 PM   #25
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I tried a ball valve and it slowed the draining too much.Wlthout an opening to let air in it has to travel up from the bottom thru the same opening as the water coming out.
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Old 07-10-2015, 12:50 PM   #26
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askunk, when we are breaking camp my DW will dump 1 or 2 dish pans full of dish water with Dawn in it down the toilet to add more water to the black tank to assist in the "dumping" of that tank. Seems to make a difference that the tank drains fast with a good "whoosh" when I open the drain valve.
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Old 07-10-2015, 09:27 PM   #27
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Ball valve is NOT for draining.

It is for "testing"...

If you forget to close the gate valve and remove the cap you get brown surprise.

If you have the ball valve you can open it and the surprise is small and controlled.

You shut gate then drain what is above the cap then remove cap knowing what is not there.
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Old 07-11-2015, 07:31 AM   #28
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I have a 6 inch clear extension so there are no surprises.I can also see when the tanks are finished draining and if the rinsing has worked.
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