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Old 02-25-2014, 07:51 AM   #3431
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Seems if most grills grills come with regulators and it wold be common to tee before the regulator. That way, you could use the same port to re-fill the man tank from the same port on the auz tank. Am I off base here.? Don't have one, but hooked at T pictures bunch of times.
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Old 02-25-2014, 09:00 AM   #3432
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Use the search function above. There have been several discussions on this topic. Most have the solution being buy a 10lb tank and hose. Use a plastic milk crate to hold your tank and hose. That's what we did and it has worked out very well. Everything can be found at CW for approx. $70.
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Old 02-25-2014, 10:10 AM   #3433
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Light holders for the awning, step covers, cross bar for the screen door, volcano 3 grill, outdoor digital amplified antenna (going to try not to use the satellite), vortex II replacement upgrade fan, flag pole, oxygenic shower head

can't wait until warm weather so I can get the new to us 5th wheel ready for camping.

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Old 02-25-2014, 11:07 AM   #3434
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I just ordered a box of disposable booties for the camper. we go barefoot in here but service people prefer to keep their boots on I think.

I hope the box of fifty pairs lasts me a lifetime!
I ordered them on amazon, they were under ten bucks and i'll have clean carpets and floors forever, lol!
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Old 02-25-2014, 12:07 PM   #3435
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New outside step covers and a motion sensor LED porch light. I guess this qualifies, but I also added electrical wiring with a 50amp connector to my storage barn.
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Old 02-25-2014, 06:58 PM   #3436
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NukeRef View Post
The Weber won't work if you plug into the low pressure side of the RV's propane system. A modification is required. I'm guessing the brass tee that BiginSeattle bought will be used either to create a tap upstream of the regulator in the RV's system, kind of like an Extend-a-Stay, or to create a low pressure inlet on the Weber. I have tried modifying two different grills for low pressure inlets. Both worked, but the RV's system wouldn't deliver enough gas to create a strong flame because of the pressure drop through the lengthy hoses. I'm not ready to modify the RV's high pressure side just yet. It's not complex or dangerous, just inconvenient. The bottles are too easy to make it worth my while (my personal opinion only).
I called Webber Cust Svc today. The guy said no on hooking into the RV system. The only safe way is to use either the small tanks or the larger portable tanks---5 gallons to that type. So that is straight from the "horses mouth".
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Old 02-25-2014, 08:08 PM   #3437
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finhawk View Post

I called Webber Cust Svc today. The guy said no on hooking into the RV system. The only safe way is to use either the small tanks or the larger portable tanks---5 gallons to that type. So that is straight from the "horses mouth".
Many Rv'ers use the Weber Q because it's very simple to remove the regulator and connect it directly to the low pressure side. It's no surprise that the manufacturer of a certified gas appliance doesn't recommend modifying it, but that doesn't mean it can't be done.

The alternative is using the T fittings that go between tank and the trailer's regulator.
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Old 02-25-2014, 08:47 PM   #3438
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Many Rv'ers use the Weber Q because it's very simple to remove the regulator and connect it directly to the low pressure side. It's no surprise that the manufacturer of a certified gas appliance doesn't recommend modifying it, but that doesn't mean it can't be done.

The alternative is using the T fittings that go between tank and the trailer's regulator.
Remove the Regulator and install a Male Quick Connector. Tee into one of the lines to an appliance in the MH ( like the fridge) that is regulated off the tank. Install a 1/4" hose of what ever length you require. On one end of the hose you will have a 1/4" NPT fitting that will thread into the Tee. On mine, I added a Shut-off Valve so I could remove the hose if required without effecting the House Propane System.
The other end of the hose will have a Female Quick Coupler with a No-Go Valve that will only allow you to turn on the Propane after it is coupled to the BBQ.
BBQ Shops will have all these parts on hand and be able to give you a hand with what you need.
You should have basic knowledge of Gas Fitting Practice to tackle this but it is not rocket science.
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Old 02-25-2014, 09:15 PM   #3439
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Replacement ShurFlo strainer at the water pump...ice cracked the bowl. I may need to replace the main filter that also cracked in the threaded area. I'm going to try epoxy first. Then I will need to check the rest of the system for leaks. never had to winterize before, but shoud have this winter.
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Old 02-26-2014, 12:16 AM   #3440
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marcham View Post
Many Rv'ers use the Weber Q because it's very simple to remove the regulator and connect it directly to the low pressure side. It's no surprise that the manufacturer of a certified gas appliance doesn't recommend modifying it, but that doesn't mean it can't be done. The alternative is using the T fittings that go between tank and the trailer's regulator.


I have a Go Anywhere Weber Grill that I took the regulator off . I installed a valve and a quick connect on my propane tank AFTER the regulator. Ran my hose to the grill and added a control valve for the flame and another quick connect at the grill . Works great !!!
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Old 02-26-2014, 02:57 AM   #3441
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Why so much for the install? CW is offering to install anything for $39 for Good Sam members. I paid $78 for my install ($39 for installing the Invisibrake and another $39 for installing a brake light relay).
It was like going to war with CW JUST to have them honor the $149 install for the invisibrake...because I ordered it 'online'...at camping world.com NOT from there store. And the 'small print' does say that 'all installs are $39....invisibrake is $149 - if bought at super centers". (Of course, the salesman on the phone didn't mention any of that..."sure, it's a $149 install...just give your local center a call, once your invisibrake comes in, and they'll be fine..."


Although I did get a catalog in the mail today that says $149 Club sale price install now.

Oh...and they mailed it to my OLD address...even though the guy I ordered from online had my new (as of last May) address...So, I had to go over to the people who bought our house and pick it up last night...Got home - and verified that both Camping World and my Good Sam memberships have my correct address...so not sure how that happened.


Oh, yea...they also said my Jeep (2010 Wrangler) will need a brake light switch...another $50...and STILL ANOTHER $39 install...
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Old 02-26-2014, 09:55 AM   #3442
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Found crack

Quote:
Originally Posted by 96 Wideglide View Post
Did you 'find' it with the snow shovel ?
I was wondering the same thing.


I read a little farthur and found out the answer.

.
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Old 02-26-2014, 10:27 AM   #3443
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A New 60 gallon Fuel tank it was a surplus unit from a Bluebird bus. even has a sending unit installed if i wanted a separate fuel gauge. Should site nicely on the passenger side.
I'll have 110 gallon total capacity when installed.
53L x 20.5 W x 14.07H.
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Old 02-26-2014, 09:43 PM   #3444
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Remove the Regulator and install a Male Quick Connector. Tee into one of the lines to an appliance in the MH ( like the fridge) that is regulated off the tank. Install a 1/4" hose of what ever length you require. On one end of the hose you will have a 1/4" NPT fitting that will thread into the Tee. On mine, I added a Shut-off Valve so I could remove the hose if required without effecting the House Propane System. The other end of the hose will have a Female Quick Coupler with a No-Go Valve that will only allow you to turn on the Propane after it is coupled to the BBQ. BBQ Shops will have all these parts on hand and be able to give you a hand with what you need. You should have basic knowledge of Gas Fitting Practice to tackle this but it is not rocket science.
Thanks for the pics!
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