What's the best way to increase my MPG?

[MotorPro]

Originally Posted by twinboat

So, I can gain 1 MPG, 10% of 10 MPG, by changing my oil.

Increadable !!!!

Yep and I have a bridge you really need to buy

[Russ Silber]

Originally Posted by MotorPro

Yep and I have a bridge you really need to buy

0W10 helped my autocross engine spool up faster due to lower resistance to moving parts
However i don't think your rv will tollerate such a thin oil film[emoji21]

[baraff]

Spending money on hardware and/or software upgrades to achieve increased mileage is false economy. It takes a very long time to realize a payback vs the cost of a Banks system or transmission shift program upgrade. Doing these upgrades for other reasons, such as increased power if you need it might make sense, although I think for most the stock V10 does just fine as it is. I could see it if you are constantly hauling a large trailer or primarily driving in mountainous regions.
Crummy mileage is all part of the cost of hauling a small home down the road, in my opinion.

[Unicorn Driver]

Someone on here said before to drive like an egg was under the accelerator pedal :-)

[TonyMac]

Make sure your engine intake is getting cold outside air, not air heated by the radiator. Some of these aftermarket air intakes open the intake to heated after-radiator air.

[Simibob]

The first "Class A" we had was a Overland 1986 28 footer with a big block Dodge, 440, I used to get about 6 mpg. Tried most of what was brought up in this thread and saw a modest increase in mpg (about .1-.2 %) the best bang for your buck that I have seen is using an after market oil bath, cleanable, air filter, I like the ones KN makes. We now have a Class A pusher with a 360 HP Cummings diesel. First upgrade to the motor home, and it is the only thing I have done to the motor, was to install a K&N air cleaner. We went from about 8 mpg to around 9 mpg, almost a 10% increase in mpg. The only thing we could do now to improve the MPG and offset the cost of the K&N, is to push the motorhome on our next trip..... Not too sure how far we need to push the motorhome for it to offset the cost of the upgrade. But I didn't buy the RV because of the green footprint it has, and the cost of fuel is only one part of the cost to use it, bottom line is "it is what it is". Don't get me wrong, I would like to have better mileage, but if I have to stay an extra day or two where I am to make up for the poor mileage it will be okay, I would rather sit in my chair and watch the sunset then to work on the RV.. "Worst day camping is than the best day working!" Enjoy your rig!
Bob

[leadman]

Install a vacuum gauge hooked up to the intake manifold just before the throttle body. Has to be a port that shows high vacuum at idle and lower when the throttle is opened. Then drive trying to keep the needle on the gauge at the highest reading you can.
I had one in my '88 Itasca and put on in my '99 Winnie with the V-10. Helped more in the Itasca with the carburated 454 than the V-10. It shows how far the throttle is opened by the lower gauge reading. I found it especially helpful when accelerating from a stop and when climbing hills. I found it also indicated when my road speed was high enough to cause the needle to show only a couple of inches of vacuum so I would slow down a little.
On our last trip when we went to Michigan with the Winnie that is 35' and towing a dolly with my wife's Tracker on it and heavily loaded there was no hope for any fuel mileage over 7mpg. On the was back we hit a couple of days with high winds and it dropped down to around 5.5 mpg. with our speed around 50 mph. Felt like I was in a sailboat instead of a motorhome due to the lean to one side.

[Geo19Irv]

Those of you who still don't believe in synthetics here are some numbers:


10mpg, 10,000 miles = 1000 gallons at $2.50 per = $2500 Dollars. 10% of that = $250.



You paid for the oil and it put money in your pocket. Plus a high quality oil will make your engine last longer.

[dennis45]

My research has proven that the mileage on my motorhome improves by 100.00% over the winter when it's parked in my garage. I've found that if I park it with a full tank in the fall it is still full come spring.
Now of course when I start it up in the spring the whole thing goes south.

[F4Gary]

Originally Posted by Geo19Irv

Those of you who still don't believe in synthetics here are some numbers:


10mpg, 10,000 miles = 1000 gallons at $2.50 per = $2500 Dollars. 10% of that = $250.



You paid for the oil and it put money in your pocket. Plus a high quality oil will make your engine last longer.

Synthetic oil does not get 10% better gas mileage than dino oil.

[Russ Silber]

Originally Posted by F4Gary

Synthetic oil does not get 10% better gas mileage than dino oil.

Best way is have toad push rv up hills. Might have to put wife in it to step on gas [emoji1] [emoji1] [emoji23] [emoji36]

[cfowler55]

So how about so called "Green Technology " tires. Lower rolling resistance.

[GNRVNG]

Originally Posted by Russ Silber

Count you blessings 8.8 is a miracle for F 53 no matter what the year. I guess 55 is majic. I tow at 65 and average 6-7 depending on which way the wind blows[emoji12]

[emoji106] same

[edge68474]

Originally Posted by Russ Silber

Best way is have toad push rv up hills. Might have to put wife in it to step on gas [emoji1] [emoji1] [emoji23] [emoji36]

That will take care of a couple things, LOL.
I'm with RoadDog. Best answer. I get about 7.5 with mine. I just live with it.
I really don't think synthetic or blended oil makes a difference for fuel mileage, nothing significant any way. As far as longevity of the engine, changing oil often is the best. My old Ford 5.8 litre is still running with over 400,000 miles, never been touched on the inside, same with tranny. I changed oil every 3000 miles. When I went to blended, 4000 miles. I am doing the same with my MH. Hopefully it will last as long.
Just my thoughts. Have a great day.