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Old 12-22-2015, 11:57 AM   #15
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Had our unit level by the floor but found that the Convection oven was off enough to distort my DW's cakes she loves to bake. So now I level the oven and the floor is close enough to not notice, and the Dw's happy her cakes turn our level and even.
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Old 12-22-2015, 12:08 PM   #16
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Torpedo level on the floor. Check a couple three places (front, middle, and rear) as the frame will twist.

Get used to being not perfectly level. Close counts in horseshoes, hand grenades, nuclear weapons - and RV leveling.
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Old 12-22-2015, 12:19 PM   #17
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It seems like your trailer has fairly typical construction. Depending upon where you check you will get a different reading.

At issue is what do you want level? The fridge should be close so it works properly and the bed should be level so you don't feel like you are rolling out of bed, and the stove should be level so cooking is not made difficult.

What matters to you?

We (I) like to have the stove level. Fortunately when the stove is level the doors stay where they are put, the fridge is very close and the bed and the floors are level enough to be comfortable.

So I place my level on the counter right by the stove.
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Old 12-22-2015, 12:59 PM   #18
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Here's your problem - you are trying to level your camper using the stabilizer jacks. When you pull onto a site, use something under the wheels on the low side to bring that side up level with the other side. I personally like and use Anderson levelers, they level and act as wheel chocks for that side. Once you have it level from side to side, unhook from the hitch and level front to rear. Then lower your stabilizer jacks at each corner. Put a pad or two or three (depending on room) under each jack. As the jack settles on the pad, give the crank 1/2 to 3/4 turn to set it firmly. Now your doors and drawers will cooperate.
The best place to set your level is on the counter top, it's smooth, hard, and reasonably level to begin with. However, there is nothing wrong with installing a small bubble level on the front side and front for side to side and front to rear leveling. They are very accurate if installed when the camper is actually level.
Finally, when you level, you don't really want your camper perfectly level. In the summer, air conditioner condensate will puddle on the roof, and potentially cause corrosion and intrusion. Set your camper tilted ever so slightly towards the corner you want the water to run off from. If you set it to run away from the doors, this will help prevent overloading your awning in the event of rain, as well. And since your head is toward the front of the camper when you sleep, having the bubble up just a bit will help you sleep better, too.
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Old 12-22-2015, 03:42 PM   #19
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When I get a trailer, I carefully level it with a 4' or longer level. I use the frame rails in front of and behind the axles checking side to side and front to back. I do this without using any significant pressure from the stabilizer jacks. When I get it as close as possible, I attach 4 levels on opposite corners. I can now depend on those levels to be correct and they will show any twist as well.
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Old 12-22-2015, 03:54 PM   #20
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When I had the trailer I used a 12 inch level on the stovetop. I just hate it when the egg slides out of the skillet.
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Old 12-22-2015, 03:59 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Gordon Dewald View Post
It seems like your trailer has fairly typical construction. Depending upon where you check you will get a different reading.

At issue is what do you want level? The fridge should be close so it works properly and the bed should be level so you don't feel like you are rolling out of bed, and the stove should be level so cooking is not made difficult.

What matters to you?

We (I) like to have the stove level. Fortunately when the stove is level the doors stay where they are put, the fridge is very close and the bed and the floors are level enough to be comfortable.

So I place my level on the counter right by the stove.
That's where I level also. If the counter and stove are level then the rest is very close.
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Old 12-22-2015, 04:07 PM   #22
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A quick way to check the counter without a level is to fill a glass to almost full. You will see the level by the rim.
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Old 12-22-2015, 04:30 PM   #23
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I am sorry to be still asking obnoxious newbie questions, when we have owned this thing for 6 months and are currently on our 7th trip, but...

This is our second trip where we are on level concrete pads. So levelling should be simple, right?

My current procedure is to open my levelling app on my cell phone, which is good to .1 degrees, so very accurate.

I place it on the floor just inside the door, and either one of us reads it while the other one runs the jacks up and down until it reads pretty close to level. I like to see within .5 degree both ways.

Then I step inside and it feels like it is leaning, and the doors and drawers are not cooperating. Then I place the level in the middle of the floor and it says we are 1.5 degrees facing down in the front, and leaning 2 degrees to the side, and it feels like it.

Just to experiment, I have placed the level on upright door frames, other countertops (not ones inside the slideouts), and I get different readings everywhere.

Should I read from the center of the floor, or maybe on the frame on the tongue, or what?
Or are trailers just not made to square, and I need to find my trailer's sweet spot?
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IMO a level RV absorption refrigerator is most important.
I suggest you place whatever instrument/device you use to determine the level of your RV on the floor of the freezer compartment of your RV refiderator.

BTW, others may disagree with the importance of a level refrigerator... but the now 19 year old Norcold RV refrigerator in my now 145k mile coach, has NEVER been used "off level" ... and it's still working perfectly.

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Old 12-22-2015, 04:52 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jporietis View Post
A quick way to check the counter without a level is to fill a glass to almost full. You will see the level by the rim.

Now that's an idea I haven't seen before!
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Old 12-22-2015, 06:27 PM   #25
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Humů two TTs, one class A and now a class C. If the water goes down the kitchen sink drain with no pools in the sink. That is close enough.

Eggs cooking like it, the fridge on 24/7 likes it all summer. Never a problem.

Then again, I am old enough to drink cold water out of any garden hose also.

Just believe in KISS. The life is much simpler that way.
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Old 12-22-2015, 06:36 PM   #26
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In the pan on your stove where you cook your eggs!

Crack a egg in a frying pan, that will tell the story!
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Old 12-22-2015, 07:28 PM   #27
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Well then...KISS it is!

I always like I Wanna Rock And Roll All Night!!! Beth was cool too, for a slow ballad.
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