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Old 05-14-2014, 12:48 PM   #15
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Porter Cable .....Meguires Cleaner Wax and Foam Finish Pad.

Before from the factory and after. Went over the entire coach twice.
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Old 05-14-2014, 02:45 PM   #16
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The cheapie $20 buffers are a crap shoot. Might last 10 years or 10 minutes. Mine lasted 10 minutes and the innards came apart.
Did my research (Google is your friend) and bought the Porter Cable already mentioned. It is the STANDARD for orbital buffers. There are auto detailing forums out there with LOTS of info on purchasing the buffer and pads and how to get the kind of results shown by Bullheaded above.
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Old 05-14-2014, 02:53 PM   #17
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I have seen this one in action. It does an amazing job in half the time. As soon as I get final approval from my Financial Advisor (DW) I am going to have one in my arsenal of Detailing Equipment.

Cyclo Polisher, Dual Head Polisher, Cyclo Orbital Polisher, orbital buffer, cyclo buffer, machine buffer, airplane buffer, trailer buffer
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Old 05-14-2014, 05:59 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIRE UP View Post
To the OP,

It always cracks me up when I see people state "you'll damage the paint, put swirl marks and more) when using a buffer.

Scott
Very happy to have cracked you up!

Just wonder why you would criticize my opinion??

OP was asking what others do so he is probably not a detailing pro. As such, I still maintain that using a swirling electric buffer and risk swirls in the clear coat, it is safer to wax on wax off by hand.

But then again, it's just my opinion and is not worth any more than what I charged for it.
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Old 05-14-2014, 06:08 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by new rver View Post
tryed to look up old post,could not find just wondering which kind of buffers one uses when waxing mh. went to sears and they had big buffers.
safe travels bob,linda & missy
Sorry to get of topic. When you log on click your name where it says
welcome new rver. Then click on statistics and click on "find all posts by new rver'
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Old 05-14-2014, 06:13 PM   #20
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Dennis45 I have both the Porter Cable and the Cyclo buffer that I use in detailing cars. I purchased the Cyclo first because of it's reputation and the no swirl ability. Really expensive and very well built, also really heavy and really awkward. I then learned of the Porter-Cable and was hesitant to purchase one after just shelling out $300 for the Cyclo. I toughed it out until I couldn't take it any more. Purchased the Porter-Cable and wish I had found out about it first. Lighter and very versatile as well. One pad and lots easier on me! You do what you want, I detail cars as part of my business and am much happier with the Porter Cable. JMHO Randy
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Old 05-14-2014, 06:18 PM   #21
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Correct HHI. Very easy to "burn" paint with a buffer if it is left in the same place for a short amount of time especially on a corner.
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Old 05-14-2014, 11:06 PM   #22
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Dennis45 I have both the Porter Cable and the Cyclo buffer that I use in detailing cars. I purchased the Cyclo first because of it's reputation and the no swirl ability. Really expensive and very well built, also really heavy and really awkward. I then learned of the Porter-Cable and was hesitant to purchase one after just shelling out $300 for the Cyclo. I toughed it out until I couldn't take it any more. Purchased the Porter-Cable and wish I had found out about it first. Lighter and very versatile as well. One pad and lots easier on me! You do what you want, I detail cars as part of my business and am much happier with the Porter Cable. JMHO Randy

The proof in in tasting the Pudding no doubt. Thanks for the information. Maybe I will have to reconsider my purchase.


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Old 05-15-2014, 12:20 AM   #23
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I also use the Porter Cable 7424. I bought it a few months ago when I bought my new coach. The Porter Cable has a built in clutch that will prevent it from burning the paint. For the last nine years I hand waxed my coach about three to four times a year. I had a small orbital, but it finally fell apart.

The Porter Cable is heavy, but does a nice job. I also learned that when you use a buffer, it heats the wax and paint a little more, thus doing a better job.

I was running out of time before a trip tis weekend and waxed the roof of my new Dutch Star. If anyone has been watching the weather, it was 100 degrees today. It took me 3.5 hours, but would have taken me longer if I did it by hand.
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Old 05-15-2014, 12:41 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HHIDan View Post
Very happy to have cracked you up!

Just wonder why you would criticize my opinion??

OP was asking what others do so he is probably not a detailing pro. As such, I still maintain that using a swirling electric buffer and risk swirls in the clear coat, it is safer to wax on wax off by hand.

But then again, it's just my opinion and is not worth any more than what I charged for it.
I don't think I would say I was criticizing your opinion, just saying it cracks me up when people make statements that are not clarified which, makes people who, really don't know, think that ALL "BUFFERS" DAMAGE PAINT!

Well, as many on here have stated, that's not the case. I've done quite a bit of painting in my life, cars, motorcycles, boats, and much more. And, many kinds and types of paint, enamels, lacquers, Urethanes, and, single and dual stage applications.

There are times when a paint job is done with and expected rough or, dull finish. When that's the case, a painter will do what's called a "cut and buff" finish on it. That's when a BUFFER, or, higher speed non-random orbital unit is used. And, yes, those have the ability to do damage in the hands of non-experienced users. With the right compound and pad, I've brought back many-a aged or, sun damaged or, neglected paint jobs. I've made older, sun damaged regular gel coated motor homes shine seriously well with a buffer and compound. The roof on our present coach, is about 5 times shinier with the use of a high speed buffer.

But, the use of the random orbitals like the models of Porter cable that have been mentioned, is pretty close to impossible to damage paint with, even on edges. I'm not saying it cannot be done, but, you'd have to TRY and damage the edge of paint with one, in order to do it.

Those who've used all the types and styles of "Buffers" out there, know what they're all capable of. To answer the OPs question, as you can read, there's definitely buffers out there that will do exactly what you want and, with minimal effort and, will NOT DAMAGE PAINT.

The smart thing to do here is, watch a pro. That is, go to just about any big RV event/camp ground/RV park, etc. and watch what tools they use and, the compounds/waxes they use. You can buy anything they use, (that is you want what they use) at any detailers supply house. I've used a zillion types of wax, liquid, pastes, sprays, and more. Very few last for more than a month or so. Especially if the coach is in the elements consistently. If, it's under cover or, in a garage of some sort after it's detailed, it will last considerably longer. Good luck.
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Old 05-15-2014, 12:55 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don View Post
I also use the Porter Cable 7424. I bought it a few months ago when I bought my new coach. The Porter Cable has a built in clutch that will prevent it from burning the paint. For the last nine years I hand waxed my coach about three to four times a year. I had a small orbital, but it finally fell apart.

The Porter Cable is heavy, but does a nice job. I also learned that when you use a buffer, it heats the wax and paint a little more, thus doing a better job.

I was running out of time before a trip tis weekend and waxed the roof of my new Dutch Star. If anyone has been watching the weather, it was 100 degrees today. It took me 3.5 hours, but would have taken me longer if I did it by hand.
Hi Don, I assume your new coach has a Britec Rubber Roof. Everything I read about this material says not to use anything but a Mild Soap like Murphy's Oil Soap and do not treat with sealers etc.
Just curious, if you have a rubber roof why do you wax it?
I wash mine twice per year and do not use any treatment. I used to use 303 but according to my Newmar Manual, it is unnecessary.
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Old 05-15-2014, 05:45 AM   #26
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thanks for all the replys. looks like the pc 7424 is the way to go, now which pads to use and cleaner & wax ? we have a new 2015 fleetwood excursion and want to keep it nice.i see theres black, yellow, ext,ext pads. all i'm after is to put a good cleaner-wax on and take off. sence its been raining about every day here starting to get some black streaks.pole barn is starting to get built for mh. yes here to used to wax with kit wax by hand but shoulder ant like it use to b and don'nt get good job.
safe travels and thanks agian bob,linda & missy
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Old 05-15-2014, 06:46 AM   #27
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Check out Griot's Garage for information on paint care. I have used some of their products. But not their buffer. I use a 5" Bosch orbital sander/buffer. 6" polishing and buffer pads work very well on. Light weight and easy to handle with one hand. Unfortunately I do not see it available any more. Doing the vertical surfaces of a RV is different than doing a car. My arms ache just thinking about having to do my little motorhome compared to some of the class A's that many have.
Another place to look for buffers and supplies is Autogeek.net.
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Old 05-15-2014, 06:55 AM   #28
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I have used one of these for years. First used on my boat back in the 80s and then used on my cars also use on my prize 64 deVille , then when I bought my MH, works great.
Must use carefully or you can and will burn the paint. Once you get the hang of it, its a breeze.
This year I tried doing by hand, I have a torn rotary cuff (repaired) and did it by hand with the help of partner 1/2 way thru I had to get a cortisone shot in the shoulder then was able to finish.
I used these products bought from a car show last summer and works great.
ThePerfectWax.com, spendy yes but worth it. easy on and easy off.Also used Nu-finished Wax,again easy on and off

JMO, Tim
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