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Old 06-05-2016, 09:14 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by scottandanna View Post
I am trying to fill up my black tank with fresh clean water, and run it out, but when I put the hose on outside, I can see the tank fill up to 2/3 pretty quickly, then it seems to stop filling.
Is there a safety switch in there to prevent it from accidentally overflowing while on the hose?
When looking down into the toilet, I can see lots of motion and water sloshing, then it sorta just calms down when it hits 2/3 full.

If there is a safety valve, that is a pretty cool deal, and I am glad to know it is on there.
scottandanna
Are you sure your black tank "stops filling" at 2/3 full?

Mine also "sorta just calms down when it hits 2/3 full", because at 2/3 full the "in tank rinser" gets covered with water.....but it continues to fill.

BTW I have never seen or heard of a black tank rinse "safety valve" or "safety switch".
(In fact I've been told that mine will continue to fill, run up the vent pipe and out onto the roof... if left unattended).

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Old 06-05-2016, 11:16 AM   #16
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If there is a safety valve, that is a pretty cool deal, and I am glad to know it is on there.[/QUOTE]

I get pretty nervous filling up the black tank via the rinse hose. I would hate to have it come out the vent and give me an unwanted shower, or worse yet it comes out the toilet. 2 minutes is all I give it. I have a clear plastic extension on my dump hose so I keep filling and dumping for 2 minutes till I see nothing but clear water.
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Old 06-05-2016, 11:47 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by scottandanna View Post
I am trying to fill up my black tank with fresh clean water, and run it out, but when I put the hose on outside, I can see the tank fill up to 2/3 pretty quickly, then it seems to stop filling.

Is there a safety switch in there to prevent it from accidentally overflowing while on the hose?

When looking down into the toilet, I can see lots of motion and water sloshing, then it sorta just calms down when it hits 2/3 full.

If there is a safety valve, that is a pretty cool deal, and I am glad to know it is on there.

As someone else stated, this happens when the water level gets above the flusher nozzle!
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Old 06-05-2016, 12:11 PM   #18
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i think mel nailed it. it will keep filling, until... you guess it, on the roof. be careful - when the level reaches "F" or near "F", stop! otherwise you could experience what i have gone through: No functional roof vent on black tank?

the check valve under the sink is a place prone to leak; i have opened it up to look into how it worked. well, as other members have said, it prevents water from backflow. in my case, it's way up there higher than black tank and even toilet, backflow will never happen; the max coming out of the port is the water between the port and up to the position of the valve, but that is clean water. why need i bother to have it?

so, i sealed the valve with a pvc shell joined by epoxy. it will never leak, and the smell will never escape from there to the cabinet under the sink!
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Old 06-05-2016, 12:26 PM   #19
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The Plastic Vac breaker is a PITA. Here is a recent thread on the subject. My new brass valve works great and does not leak.

Leak in Black Tank Flush line

As for the black tank not filling, I think what you are seeing, hearing, is the water level rises above the flush nozzles and then you don't hear the noise from those nozzles. I think if you check at the water source in the wet bay, you will find water is still running. As Mel said, once you don't hear the flush running, be careful cause the next phase will be stinky water running out of the roof top vent.
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Old 06-05-2016, 02:45 PM   #20
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i think mel nailed it. it will keep filling, until... you guess it, on the roof. be careful - when the level reaches "F" or near "F", stop! otherwise you could experience what i have gone through: No functional roof vent on black tank?

the check valve under the sink is a place prone to leak; i have opened it up to look into how it worked. well, as other members have said, it prevents water from backflow. in my case, it's way up there higher than black tank and even toilet, backflow will never happen; the max coming out of the port is the water between the port and up to the position of the valve, but that is clean water. why need i bother to have it?

so, i sealed the valve with a pvc shell joined by epoxy. it will never leak, and the smell will never escape from there to the cabinet under the sink!
I am thinking about just pulling the valve out and bypassing it. I use a backflush valve on the outside, since I did not know there was one inside.
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Old 06-05-2016, 04:17 PM   #21
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I am thinking about just pulling the valve out and bypassing it. I use a backflush valve on the outside, since I did not know there was one inside.

Do whatever you think you gotta but this valve is there to prevent back flow from the black tank flush line into the fresh water system. If it was not required I doubt if the manufactures would bother putting it in since it adds to their cost. IMHO,,,,,
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Old 06-06-2016, 08:28 AM   #22
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i think mel nailed it. it will keep filling, until... you guess it, on the roof. be careful - when the level reaches "F" or near "F", stop! otherwise you could experience what i have gone through: No functional roof vent on black tank?

the check valve under the sink is a place prone to leak; i have opened it up to look into how it worked. well, as other members have said, it prevents water from backflow. in my case, it's way up there higher than black tank and even toilet, backflow will never happen; the max coming out of the port is the water between the port and up to the position of the valve, but that is clean water. why need i bother to have it?

so, i sealed the valve with a pvc shell joined by epoxy. it will never leak, and the smell will never escape from there to the cabinet under the sink!
CountryFit
If when you say: "check valve under the sink", you are talking about a "vacuum breaker", (aka: "back flow preventer"), in the water supply line for the black tank rinser...it's required to prevent you from contaminating the city or campground water system with your sewage.


VACUUM BREAKER
------------------------------------------------------------------

However...If you are talking about a "AVV", ("air admittance valve") in the sink drain plumbing...it's necessary to allow the sink to drain properly.

AIR ADMITTANCE VALVE
--------------------------------------------------------

IMO "Sealing either up", (or eliminating either one)... is just plain WRONG.

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Old 06-06-2016, 09:38 AM   #23
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CountryFit
If when you say: "check valve under the sink", you are talking about a "vacuum breaker", (aka: "back flow preventer"), in the water supply line for the black tank rinser...it's required to prevent you from contaminating the city or campground water system with your sewage.


VACUUM BREAKER
------------------------------------------------------------------

However...If you are talking about a "AVV", ("air admittance valve") in the sink drain plumbing...it's necessary to allow the sink to drain properly.

AIR ADMITTANCE VALVE
--------------------------------------------------------

IMO "Sealing either up", (or eliminating either one)... is just plain WRONG.

Mel
'96 Safari
It would be wrong, IF it wasn't leaking and potentially causing damage to my trailer, and IF I wasn't using one on the outside of my trailer that is brass and works better than the one inside.

In essence, I am simply replacing the faulty one with a better one that is not faulty.
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Old 06-06-2016, 10:10 AM   #24
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It would be wrong, IF it wasn't leaking and potentially causing damage to my trailer, and IF I wasn't using one on the outside of my trailer that is brass and works better than the one inside.



In essence, I am simply replacing the faulty one with a better one that is not faulty.

Actually you are simply adding one at the inlet connection to the RV, if I understand you correctly, and that's great but it does nothing to replace the Vac Break under the sink.
The reason for the one under the sink is, as was said previously, to prevent back flow from the black tank flush line into your RV's Fresh Water System. Each time you run water into the flush and turn it off, there is the potential for a back flow from the black tank into your fresh water system.
What you are referring to (I apologize if I misunderstood) will prevent back flow from the RV into the City Water Supply. Whole different animal.
But, as I stated, it's your RV, your family, your choice. All I'm trying to do is explain the purpose of of valve. If you choose to eliminate it, go for it.
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Old 06-06-2016, 10:42 AM   #25
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I have the backflow protection device installed permanently on my hose and there is also a ball-cock cutoff valve on the hose.

So, I have a brown hose that is designated to be used ONLY for flushing my black tank. It gets hooked directly to the park's fresh water line with the brass backflow protector on it. At the other end is a brass ball-cock cutoff valve, and THEN it is attached to the black tank flush inlet on the side of the trailer.

So no black water back into the fresh water supply, and I can turn water on and off while standing there watching the black tank being flushed out.

And once I bypass that stock plastic backflow valve inside the trailer, no more leaks.

As for the second plastic vent attached to the sink plumbing, I am not messing with that at all.

This all has nothing to do with the freshwater supply to, or inside, the trailer. Only the black tank flush hose.
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Old 06-06-2016, 11:21 AM   #26
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I have the backflow protection device installed permanently on my hose and there is also a ball-cock cutoff valve on the hose.

So, I have a brown hose that is designated to be used ONLY for flushing my black tank. It gets hooked directly to the park's fresh water line with the brass backflow protector on it. At the other end is a brass ball-cock cutoff valve, and THEN it is attached to the black tank flush inlet on the side of the trailer.

So no black water back into the fresh water supply, and I can turn water on and off while standing there watching the black tank being flushed out.

And once I bypass that stock plastic backflow valve inside the trailer, no more leaks.

As for the second plastic vent attached to the sink plumbing, I am not messing with that at all.

This all has nothing to do with the freshwater supply to, or inside, the trailer. Only the black tank flush hose.
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Old 06-06-2016, 11:38 AM   #27
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I get pretty nervous filling up the black tank via the rinse hose. I would hate to have it come out the vent and give me an unwanted shower, or worse yet it comes out the toilet. 2 minutes is all I give it. I have a clear plastic extension on my dump hose so I keep filling and dumping for 2 minutes till I see nothing but clear water.
My manual for my 2016 Jayco is most specific: "The drain valve for the black water tank must be OPEN to use this feature."

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Old 06-15-2016, 08:26 PM   #28
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OK, been at Manitou Springs for 3 days with VERY high water pressure. Rinsed the tank, and didn't look under the sink until we got to Steamboat Springs. Guess what...tons of water under the sink.

So today, I mopped up the water, pulled out the valve and the secondary hose, and hooked the primary hose directly to the hose fitting in the wall.

This park has very high water pressure, also, so I hooked it up (with the fixture hanging out of the side of the trailer) and ran it for about 10 minutes, and not a drop came out.

So, permanent fix is get rid of that indoor valve, and install a brass in-line one-way valve on the hose outside of the trailer.

Yes, I realize that some on here do not realize that I am replacing the indoor one-way valve with an outdoor one, and keep telling me "you are doing it all wrong", but in reality, same thing is accomplished, without leakage inside the trailer. As long as I remember to put the valve on the hose (which i leave on permanently, anyway).
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