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Old 11-08-2012, 10:54 PM   #15
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If you create a direct flush by whatever method it will require a lot of water with every flush to carry the waste to it's final desination. In our case you would need to raise the toilet to provide room for the Y and make the afflent travel across the width of the MH. YOu also need to hit the drain in the park which are not always in a great location so the material would have to travel quite a ways in many cases. Rare to find a direct drop to the sewer drain and anything horizontal makes your challenge all the more difficult.

I think it is too much pain for too little gain for me, but what the heck to each his own. When you get it figured out let us know.
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Old 11-08-2012, 10:57 PM   #16
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You would have to use a lot of water to get the solids to run out of the drain pipe unless it was very short and steep.

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Old 11-08-2012, 11:03 PM   #17
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To drain your toilet like a home style bath (Y valve engaged) you would need a home style toilet...needs a trap and a tank with enough water to cause a flush.

It is an interesting idea, just not what they design for RV toilets.

Another idea is a vacu-flush style commonly used in boats. The toilet looks like a RV straight drop toilet, but there is a suction unit on the end of a black waste pipe that pulls the waste away and drops it into a tank...could just drop it into a stinky slinky.
http://www.marinesan.com/VacuFlush_o...tems_s/214.htm
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Old 11-09-2012, 10:52 AM   #18
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You'd still have to hook up the slinky from RV to the sewer. You'd have to put the toilet up on such a high pedestal to get all that plumbing under it you'd need a ladder to reach it. Additional water would have to be added for each flush to clear the run. Typically, the bathroom sink goes into the black tank also, so it would have to be included in the new plumbing. The addition of two more slide valves increases places for things to go wrong. All this so you don't have to pull a handle every third day and dump the tank? I'm not seeing the advantage.
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Old 11-09-2012, 11:31 AM   #19
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I understand the concept and could be accomplished on some RV's but IMO really not worth the effort. Nothing to hard about pulling a little black handle. You could always install electric valves.
I must admit that I have never thought of people who RV as lazy (with all that has to be done) but in this case What the heck is the big deal with emptying tanks!
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Old 11-09-2012, 12:07 PM   #20
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Nothing wrong with looking for a different way to do things. Nothing would ever improve if we were satisfied with things as they are. You would definitly need something along the lines of a household type stool as without a trap the sewer gas would be unbearable. The boat type of stool has an unlimited supply of water at its disposal and quite often there is little drop between stool and tank. That is why the vacum type is popular and more expensive.
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Old 11-09-2012, 12:32 PM   #21
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Perhaps Rockman1 should investigate the old Thermosan system. It was a macerator that chewed up the waste and injected it into the exhaust pipe to burn it up. No muss, no fuss. EXCEPT it often clogged or malfunctioned. It only operated when exhaust was hot, idle or low speed wouldn't work. It rusted out exhaust systems prematurely. It would consume about 1 gallon of waste per 15 miles of driving, so to burn a day's worth of waste, (15 gal.?) you'd have to drive about 225 miles. LOTS simpler than a slinky emptying a holding tank every 3 days. I'm not discouraging creative thinking, just study history. By the way, I have dibs on the idea of feeding everyone Imodium, rice, cheese, and bananas before boarding the bus. No high fiber foods allowed in the pantry!
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Old 11-09-2012, 12:40 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luckiest Dre View Post
Nothing wrong with looking for a different way to do things. Nothing would ever improve if we were satisfied with things as they are. You would definitly need something along the lines of a household type stool as without a trap the sewer gas would be unbearable. The boat type of stool has an unlimited supply of water at its disposal and quite often there is little drop between stool and tank. That is why the vacum type is popular and more expensive.
But wait...the vacu-flush in my Express (29' Wellcraft) uses fresh water from the on-board tank to flush...it is very efficient on water use. And, after years of use has no salt or corrosion issues in the lines.

Not all of us have a BIG OL' Trawler
I know there are lots of marine toilets that use raw water (from the sea chest) but there are systems that use a tiny amount too. I would use one of these systems to add a half bath to the RV too.
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Old 11-09-2012, 12:41 PM   #23
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If you are near a dump you are also near a public toilet. So, use the public toilet, have the solids pass through the trap and then wherever they go.

The tank will fill with water again, and be ready for the next "dump".

No need to open your black tank valve at all.

Another option is a rigid 4" pipe from the bottom of the toilet to the access hole for the dump. Run the hose from the park water to the toilet and wash it down after every use.

The reality is that the solid waste is going to need a downhill slope and water to make it's way from the RV to the dump. Leaving the valve open means there will be no water left to encourage the solids to leave. As well as creating what is known as a "stench", which has the advantage of giving you a private area in the campground.

One widely used option is to have the tank dump into a small barrel, and when it's half full add diesel fuel and light. The ensuing fire will kill all harmful germs and also create quite an area for you to enjoy the solitude of nature.

Just some thoughts, meant to be light-hearted. Feel free to either use or disregard.
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Old 11-09-2012, 01:33 PM   #24
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Think of this:
No black tank at all--Sewage would drop directly into a small trap that would trigger a macerator and away goes trouble down the drain.
Of all the proposals made here, this is the only one that would work.

The biggest problems with what the OP proposes are:

1. Because of where the black tank is usually located, to implement the plan, the tank would have to be relocated or eliminated.

2. If the black tank is eliminated, the RV could no longer be used for dry camping.

3. Even if the tank is located, or can be relocated, to allow the Y valve (assuning you can even find one), RV toilets do not use enough water to flush the solids down a drain.

4. If a residential toilet is installed to correct the problem in #3, the drain lines have to kept sloped at 1/4" per foot (any slope greater than 45 is considered to be a vertical drop which is acceptable). Not enough slope and the water is unable to push the solids down the pipes. Too much slope and the water runs through the pipes too fast, leaving the solids behind. Some codes still permit 1/8" per foot but the vast majority require 1/4" per foot.

This isn't to say it can't be done but it could be more trouble to implement than it is worth. My suggestion would be to relocate the black tank from under the RV toilet. Install a small black tank (just a few gallons) to provide a holding area for frequent flushes in a row. Install a macerator pump fed by from the small holding tank. the output from the macerator pump can then be directed through some kind of a valving arrangement to either the relocated black tank or the park sewer connection as desired or needed.
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Old 11-09-2012, 05:54 PM   #25
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All this talk about a "y" valve and sewage makes me think about Robin Williams and his adventure in the movie "RV".

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Old 11-11-2012, 04:00 PM   #26
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Not a bad thought, just not practical. It might be more practical for someone living in an RV that remains stationary in a park.
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