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Old 10-27-2007, 08:47 AM   #1
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Well here it is that time of the year for us non-South bounders WINTERIZATION TIME

The first move is the RV anti purchase pink stuff no other. 4 gals mine will take have two toilets two black tanks 1 gray and plumbing for washer dryer. No washer dryer. What to do Washer-Dryer

NEXT I go around and open all faucets kitchen, baths, showers in & out, plumbing for washer and remove water filters sink, ice maker combo and main filter.
Close valve for water line to filtered faucet on sink and ice maker, disconnect the water line to ice maker, let water drain from ice maker itself, had previously defrost the refer and shut off refer. Cleaned water out of ice maker container with sponge or paper towels to dry and open switch arm to back drain water in line with lines disconnected from water valve in back of refer you can blow out water from this valve, after water out of lines will tape so no little creatures can get in. This water line from filter under sink to faucet and ice maker will leave disconnected all winter.

NEXT go to all low point drain valves I have four, two in water bay and one each on both split water tanks both sides of coach in compartments where you can see fresh water tanks. The two toilets let water seal in bowl drop into tanks you will reseal with anti at end of operations. NOW close all faucets you opened before, before going outside.
The water heater is drained by removing anode rod plug bottom of tank open relief valve and let water drain. Check your rod if eaten away you may need new one, mine was still in tack, new this year and will reuse next year, cleaned and wrapped in paper towel and store in HW bay.
Turn your by-pass valves, three of them, to the opposite direction from summer use. This will stop anti from entering tank. I have a long yellow plastic wand to clean out bottom of tank of sediment that may collect there. To remove remaiming water in tank use a siphon to remove if you wish.

NEXT find a large bucket to hold two or three gallons of anti and fill. Shut off valve to fresh water tank siphon to water pump and open valve to plastic hose. REMOVE brass plug on end of hose and place in bucket of anti. Go to water bay and turn on pump you will see pump suck anti up hose and open the two low point valves until you see pink stuff and close. OPEN the exter- shower for pink stuff your done outside.

NEXT go inside with a small container and open each faucet slowly and allow any water to drain into container to clear, clear water, when pink shows shut off and go to next faucet and so forth. I throw clear water outside and double check each faucet for the pink stuff. The toilets, operate foot pedal and also spray hose if you have one for that pink stuff. I have to add another gallon in bucket outside you maybe OK with the two gallons.
Once you have this done take remaining anti and pour in all traps all sinks and ample amount into all toilets and sinks so anti will be in back of all your drain valves in water bay and leave a ample amount in toilet bowel.

Well that should just about do it just DO NOT FORGET to remove all can goods liquid containers from storage cabinets and you will not have a mess in spring time when you will do everything in reverse.
One other thing shut off switch for LP DETECTOR up in your tank display area so as to not drain chassis battery.

People that do not own Newmars will have same drain points on their coach but some what different. Fleetwood fresh water drains on older coach's had one large drain off tank, Atwood water heaters do have problems with by-pass valves. Atwood parts


If anyone has questions about their particular coach feel free to ask plenty of answers on IRV2.
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Old 10-27-2007, 11:11 AM   #2
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007

That sounds like way too much work. I prefer to just fill up the fresh water tank, (so the toilet is usable), empty the black and gray tanks and then back the rig into the heated storage condo I bought a couple years ago. Then I plug in the sat dish that's on the roof, plug into the 50 amp outlet, extend the slides and consider my winterization is completed.

I now have my winter hideaway.

Jack
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Old 10-27-2007, 11:54 AM   #3
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Jack

Living in Minnesota you better have the heat on, in storage condo. What happens if you lose power to your condo.
If I could do it would be in south but thats not to be right now.
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Old 10-27-2007, 12:28 PM   #4
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Roger, as this is not necessarily Newmar specific, it might be of better use to all in the general forums...
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Old 10-27-2007, 01:28 PM   #5
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I have added more info for others of SOB's so maybe this thread can help you also.
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Old 10-28-2007, 04:11 AM   #6
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When the power goes out I have a unit that calls me (I have a phone line in the unit) and alerts me. I'll just run out and fire up the furnace with the door open to keep things from freezing. The couple times power has gone out, it's been back on before the temperature got below 45 degrees. That was almost 12 hours with an outside temp of around 0 degrees. The units are very well insulated.

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Old 10-29-2007, 12:13 PM   #7
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I plug in the block heater when the temps are forecast to be below 50-degrees.

I LUV my RV.
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Old 10-29-2007, 02:55 PM   #8
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Thanks 007, the tips are appreciated. The temps are going to go into the lower 30's or upper 20's tonight up on the Cumberland Plateau of middle Tennessee. Because we're going to Florida the first week of December, I did a "modified" winterization. Drained the HW tank, all the lines, each holding tank and put pink stuff in the drain traps. Then, I put 75 watt light bulbs in the areas in the basement where the three drains and the pump are as well as the compartment where the dump valves are. We run a portable heater inside the coach if it gets real cold for a long time. This way, I don't burn up to much propane.
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Old 10-29-2007, 03:12 PM   #9
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Using portable heaters just make sure you open some cabinet doors in sink areas to get heat in there. when furnace runs heat comes off tubing from furnace under cabinets.
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Old 10-29-2007, 04:17 PM   #10
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Man im glad i dont have to do all that, it just seems like work... and ya cant use your trailer
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Old 11-07-2010, 05:50 AM   #11
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thanks for info.1st time winterizing. drained hot water heater by opening releaf valve and opening all valves.thanks i'll go back and take plug out.then turned by pass on hot water heater.unhook water line from pump and pump anti threw all system.turn by pass and punp more in hot water heater.do u leave pink in lines or do u drain them.
safe travels bob,linda & missy
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Old 11-07-2010, 06:27 AM   #12
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Jack
Can I park my MH next to yours? But I don't have a dog.

Fred rom Pasco, WA.
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Old 11-08-2010, 08:43 PM   #13
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Thanks for this great information. I live in Houston, TX and we might only have a hard freeze 5 or 6 nights this year. (guessing) I keep our RV in a covered outside storage facility plugged in (20a) This will be my first year with our 96 Pace Arrow so I am most definitely a noob for winterizing the coach. I did buy 2 gallons of pink RV anti-freeze last month. I was thinking about just pouring some into the grey and black tanks which we mostly keep empty. and draining the water. Do you think I should pour some of the stuff into the fresh tank and circulate it around? sounds kind of nasty to me.

Mike
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Old 11-08-2010, 09:20 PM   #14
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Lightbulb Pink stuff

Greetings, please, do not put any PINK stuff in the FRESH WATER tank....!
Nothing in the HOT water tank. I
just bought today the pink stuff for our MH, since we do not go south until February or so.
On the surrounding mountains I see the snowline coming lower and lower after a front moves through.... I just need about an hour to do the work.
Empty sewer (at the other end of town)
Drain HOT WATER tank
Drain FRESH WATER tank
Turn the waterline valves OFF (to Winter operation)
PINK STUFF in all the Drainlines, inlc. toilet
some PINK stuff in the sewer tanks (grey and black)
Pump PINK stuff through all lines, inlc the shower head

For our MH the winterzing ie pretty simple and easy.
So - tomorrow is the day (still in the 40's or higher)
First time I'll do it myself on this MH
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