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Old 09-18-2019, 08:48 AM   #29
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We did air on our 5th wheel but still had problems. We have had plex lines but the elbows were not plex. We had a low spot that was a 90-degree elbow that water collected in enough quantity that it froze and cracked the elbow. Not a costly repair but just a pain to get to and of coarse we were getting ready to leave on a trip. Now we blow out the lines and we use antifreeze.
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Old 09-18-2019, 06:27 PM   #30
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I always thought the Aqua-hot systems are filled with the appropriate mixture of anti-freeze, not plain water. A buddy has had his Aqua-hot that way for over 7 years.
There is no way to safely winterize a washer/dryer combo with air pressure, don't know about a residential refrigerator with ice N water in the door.


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Old 09-18-2019, 07:14 PM   #31
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I always thought the Aqua-hot systems are filled with the appropriate mixture of anti-freeze, not plain water. A buddy has had his Aqua-hot that way for over 7 years.
There is no way to safely winterize a washer/dryer combo with air pressure, don't know about a residential refrigerator with ice N water in the door.
There is a domestic water heater in an AquaHot as well that heats fresh water for shower / sink use. That's what gets winterized with air and then antifreeze.
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Old 09-18-2019, 09:15 PM   #32
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There is a domestic water heater in an AquaHot as well that heats fresh water for shower / sink use. That's what gets winterized with air and then antifreeze.
There is a Dometic, not sure about a Domestic; (I'm not who brought it up) what about the Aqua-hot proper?
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Old 09-18-2019, 09:30 PM   #33
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"Domestic hot water" is what you drink. It's not a brand.

"domestic hot water (sometimes abbreviated as dhw)

Water used, in any type of building, for domestic purposes, principally drinking, food preparation, sanitation and personal hygiene (but not including space heating, swimming pool heating, or use for processes such as commercial food preparation or clothes washing)."
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Old 09-18-2019, 10:08 PM   #34
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I used air last fall to winterize and pink in the drains, then we had a few weeks in January and February where the daily highs never got above 0ºF. Filled it up the first week of April for a trip and blew it out again when we got home, then had many more nights of below freezing temps. Never had any issues at all. Used my Porter Cable 6 gal pancake that I keep in the bay where the inverter sits.

I'll be repeating this process in a few weeks, but I hope to get in one more weekend trip before I have to winterize.
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Old 09-19-2019, 06:47 AM   #35
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I used air last fall to winterize and pink in the drains, then we had a few weeks in January and February where the daily highs never got above 0ºF. Filled it up the first week of April for a trip and blew it out again when we got home, then had many more nights of below freezing temps. Never had any issues at all. Used my Porter Cable 6 gal pancake that I keep in the bay where the inverter sits.

I'll be repeating this process in a few weeks, but I hope to get in one more weekend trip before I have to winterize.
Without a doubt there are some who have had success with using air to blow lines, like your experiences.

However, the fact that some rigs are able to be successfully winterized with air doesn't mean that all rigs can be winterized in this manner.
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Old 09-22-2019, 04:01 PM   #36
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I blow out the lines with 60psi air then pump in rv antifreeze. Blowing out the lines alone does not get all the water out of the water pump, fridge ice maker or washer.
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Old 09-22-2019, 04:16 PM   #37
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Camping World messed up and didn't do the refrigerator properly. Flooded the coach and cost quite a bit to get tech to come out and isolate the ice maker. they used anti-freeze. what a mess. I do both air and anti-freeze on my Winnebago. Better safe than sorry.
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Old 09-22-2019, 04:17 PM   #38
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I bought an adapter that fit my water inlet to compressor and a regulator for my air compressor. I set the regulator at 25 psi and blow out the water lines for winterizing mine. You would be surprised at the amount of water that comes out even after draining the system with the low point drain.
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Old 09-22-2019, 04:32 PM   #39
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You mentioned it was stored inside, so why not blow out with air then add enough heat to be safe. Antifreeze in drains is not a taste problem so add 60 watt light bulbs in compartments where a freeze could occur. Have used light bulbs in my boat for years with no problems. I always use two bulbs at each station and check them frequently. Also have a small standby genny in case of a power outage. Unfortunately my MH is not set up for cold weather use so we put urs to bed with antifreeze for the winter. However the boat gets used all year when a warm spell opens up for a few days.
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Old 09-22-2019, 04:50 PM   #40
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I am with JimJ. I had a class C for quite about 10 years and now have a small (Sprinter based) Class A. We have had it for two winters now. I have always blown out with air. I have a fitting I made that connects to the water inlet and accepts the quick connect air hose. I set the air pressure regulator to about 50 psi so that I don't blow my water piping apart. I drain the hot water tank and put the plug back in then pressurize the system and plow out each water outlet until all the water is out. This can blow large and sudden bursts of water so a put a rag over each tap until it is mainly air coming through. I rotate through each tap, hot and cold until I am sure I have all the water out and pay close attention to the toilet and the toilet hand sprayer (I missed the hand sprayer one year and it froze and broke …. $50).
When I am sure I have it all out (about two hours), I shut off the air and depressurize the system then remove the plug from the hot water tank and drain it again. I then put the plug back in in case I loose it. I also put anti-freeze into the drains (shower and sinks).
I also visually check the pump and pump filter and run the pump disconnected for a few minutes. I also put plenty of antifreeze into the drains so that any water that ends up in the tanks has enough antifreeze to take care of that. It is easier than catching and disposing of what comes out of the water lines. I also put some antifreeze into the black tank just in case.
I used to live at 8500ft in the Colorado mountains and temperatures could drop down to -20f. We have NEVER had a problem except the aforementioned toilet sprayer that I missed.
As JimJ said, all I have to do when we de winterize is fill up and go.
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Old 09-22-2019, 04:57 PM   #41
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I use air and antifreeze in the sink and shower drains. A few years ago I didn't blow out the black water tank rinse lines, a $400 error. Basically, if there is a water hose connection, blow it clear.
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Old 09-22-2019, 05:15 PM   #42
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If you hav an ice maker, dishwasher or washing machine, you have a solenoid operated water valve. Be sure to run a partial cycle to have the solenoid blown out with the air. I personally just follow each manufacturers recommendation for winterizing these appliances. All instructions can be found online using google.
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