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Old 09-23-2019, 07:30 AM   #57
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The one advantage to using antifreeze over air is that the antifreeze can more easily overcome gravity. If your plumbing system has low spots, particularly low spots which contain valves or other similar devices, there is always the chance that the air won't fully remove the water from the lines. Lines have a way of drooping over time between anchor points, especially flexible lines like PEX. Add condensation or moisture from the air itself and you can have problems when the temps get really cold. Antifreeze, when done correctly, will totally fill the spaces and voids inside the plumbing system and displace all the water.

Bad taste? My experience has been using the alcohol-free antifreeze, and after flushing for a few minutes in the spring there is no noticeable taste. We don't add antifreeze to the fresh water tank itself, since that would be really difficult to remove. Instead, park on a slight slope which moves all remaining water towards one side of the tank. Then I drop a weighted narrow vinyl tube in via a vent cap, and use the tube to suction out all the remaining water from the fresh tank.

In the end, we each use whatever method we're comfortable with. There are trade-offs either way, and there is no 'right' answer to this question.
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Old 09-23-2019, 07:42 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richard5933 View Post
The one advantage to using antifreeze over air is that the antifreeze can more easily overcome gravity. If your plumbing system has low spots, particularly low spots which contain valves or other similar devices, there is always the chance that the air won't fully remove the water from the lines. Lines have a way of drooping over time between anchor points, especially flexible lines like PEX. Add condensation or moisture from the air itself and you can have problems when the temps get really cold. Antifreeze, when done correctly, will totally fill the spaces and voids inside the plumbing system and displace all the water.

Bad taste? My experience has been using the alcohol-free antifreeze, and after flushing for a few minutes in the spring there is no noticeable taste. We don't add antifreeze to the fresh water tank itself, since that would be really difficult to remove. Instead, park on a slight slope which moves all remaining water towards one side of the tank. Then I drop a weighted narrow vinyl tube in via a vent cap, and use the tube to suction out all the remaining water from the fresh tank.

In the end, we each use whatever method we're comfortable with. There are trade-offs either way, and there is no 'right' answer to this question.



Sums it up pretty well - as always stay in YOUR comfort Zone
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Old 09-23-2019, 08:02 AM   #59
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My Plan:
Air, blow out the system first. Lots of air.
Antifreeze, lots of antifreeze, don't spare it, it's real cheap.
Air again, blow that antifreeze out and into the traps. Very little is left in the pipes.
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Old 09-23-2019, 09:56 AM   #60
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The one advantage to using antifreeze over air is that the antifreeze can more easily overcome gravity. If your plumbing system has low spots, particularly low spots which contain valves or other similar devices, there is always the chance that the air won't fully remove the water from the lines. Lines have a way of drooping over time between anchor points, especially flexible lines like PEX. Add condensation or moisture from the air itself and you can have problems when the temps get really cold. Antifreeze, when done correctly, will totally fill the spaces and voids inside the plumbing system and displace all the water.

Bad taste? My experience has been using the alcohol-free antifreeze, and after flushing for a few minutes in the spring there is no noticeable taste. We don't add antifreeze to the fresh water tank itself, since that would be really difficult to remove. Instead, park on a slight slope which moves all remaining water towards one side of the tank. Then I drop a weighted narrow vinyl tube in via a vent cap, and use the tube to suction out all the remaining water from the fresh tank.

In the end, we each use whatever method we're comfortable with. There are trade-offs either way, and there is no 'right' answer to this question.

This is what happened to me and it collected in an elbow and cracked it. One line went up to sink and the feedline had an elbow that was the lowest point and water collected and froze.
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Old 09-23-2019, 11:05 AM   #61
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Sixty years plus of camping and I’ve never used antifreeze. We have spent winters in the south for 32 years and I blow ou5 the lines in my house before we leave. The next frozen pipe I get will be the first one. For whatever that’s worth.
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Old 09-23-2019, 12:39 PM   #62
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Check your owners manual. If you have any questions, call Tiffin.
Yes, if the instructions do not include an air pressure procedure, contact Tiffin to make sure it's possible AND to get a proper procedure. My owners manual includes an air pressure winterizing procedure. If yours doesn't, it makes me wonder if it's even possible. I hope it works out for you.
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Old 09-23-2019, 03:48 PM   #63
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You can blow it out then find some low buck vodka or other favorite spirit and fill the lines. No bad taste after dumping and you can take a swig or two and enjoy 'dewinterizing' . If you are not an imbiber, you probably have a friend who would gladly volunteer to help
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Old 09-23-2019, 05:30 PM   #64
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If you have good and very reliable power, use 60 watt old style light bulbs. Put two where ever you need a bit of heat, toilets, refrig, Aqua Hot (shut it off), water pump, W/D, etc. Use two in case one burns out. If really cold I check at least every other day. Put the bulbs in Wally World's cheap drop lights....under $7.
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Old 09-23-2019, 05:37 PM   #65
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its nice to see people thinking of winterizing while its over 100 here in phoenix
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Old 09-23-2019, 06:51 PM   #66
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If you have good and very reliable power, use 60 watt old style light bulbs. Put two where ever you need a bit of heat, toilets, refrig, Aqua Hot (shut it off), water pump, W/D, etc. Use two in case one burns out. If really cold I check at least every other day. Put the bulbs in Wally World's cheap drop lights....under $7.
No way a light bulb is going to be enough to overcome -20F like we can get here. Not even two of them.

Anyone that's experienced a real winter knows how much damage this kind of cold can cause, especially when it's around for a while.
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Old 09-23-2019, 08:16 PM   #67
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Nature hates a vacuum, anyone try using shop vac to suck the water out?
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Old 09-23-2019, 08:38 PM   #68
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No way a light bulb is going to be enough to overcome -20F like we can get here. Not even two of them.

Anyone that's experienced a real winter knows how much damage this kind of cold can cause, especially when it's around for a while.
I worked with a couple guys that lived in there 5th wheel all winter in as cold as -30 for sure and they used light bulbs under there trailer to keep the lines from freezing. They were skirted in as well but no other heat under the trailer.
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Old 09-23-2019, 09:17 PM   #69
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Ive never posted more than twice anywhere, I don’t know what’s come over me.

In the early 70’s We lived in Soldotna Alaska in a 31’ Airstream for three winters and we never froze up. I put a string of 100w light bulbs under the trailer and then I lowered it as much I could without crunching the bulbs. I put a couple of bulbs in the utility compartment. I skirted the trailer with 2”x2’x8’ pieces of foam. I did do some sculpting on the insulation to make fit snugger. After the first snow I would shovel the snow up against the insulation to help hold the it in place. We left cabinets door open whenever possible. Once, when temperature hit 25 below everyone in the park froze, the cast iron sewer pipe had to be thawed out using welding machines. So light bulbs and skirting work well.
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Old 09-24-2019, 12:05 AM   #70
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I only use air, then dump the pink stuff in p-traps.
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