Winterizing MH by Draining Water ONLY

[Bainbridge]

Originally Posted by BobJones

Great point! My Dad was faithful to always blow out the lines and then one year he must have done something different because....when we got the motorhome ready to go what did we find? The water filter under the kitchen sink had burst and leaked on the carpet. This discolored the carpet and...we no longer have a water filter under the sink. So there is always some odd thing...as you mentioned!

A couple years ago I forgot to remove the under sink filter cartridge in my MH. Apparently the antifreeze didn't fill the cartridge and when I connected the water in the spring the rear slideout suddenly extended and I saw water pouring out of the outside storage compartment, which was below the sink. There was black carbon from the split filter cartridge everywhere under the sink. When I opened the outside compartment I found the water had run down into one of the two slideout controllers causing it to fail. I was able to jumper 12 volts to the motor and retract the slide and had to order a $100 replacement controller. Luckily the second controller, located behind the damaged one, was OK.


Bob B.


2007 Winnebago Voyage 35L
1994 Saturn SW2

[CMore]

Oh, thanks. I just winterized our Class A last week and your comment made me realize I didn't get the kitchen sprayer. I blew the lines out of all the others. Antifreeze goes in next week. . .or before if a cold snap pops up.

[m.elliott63]

Originally Posted by Murphcrud

Hello Guys,

I already know what most of you guys will say before you even finish reading this, but for the ones who winterize by blowing out the lines only, with a bit of antifreeze in each trap, I have a thought that I would like to share.

On your final outing before leaving your dump station, drain hot water, and thoroughly drain holding tanks with all taps, inside and out fully opened, including shower. All drain points will also be left open until we arrive at our MH parking space for the winter which will be 75 miles from last outing site. ALL water will be drained leaving you to just add a cup full of antifreeze to each p-trap.

No need to blow out the lines as there will be nothing to blow out.This method is only a theory and am wondering if anyone has done this up in the Great White North or Michigan, New York, or other border States.

Someone is going to say, "Why would you even attempt to do this???" "Use antifreeze, it's cheap and safer"
I am only addressing anyone who has an opinion on my theory, not the antifreeze users.

This posting is meant for ONLY those who blow out their water lines -----, I have been blowing out the lines over many years without the use of antifreeze (except final cup in traps).

Thanks guys

Here is an example of what could happen. All the shaking in the world will not get water out of the faucets and valves. I had to replace the shower mixing valve where the previous owner did not winterize properly. I blow out the lines then open up all valves and faucets. Then use a shop vac to blow out all p traps and add a cup or 2 to each and the toilet bowl. All told, takes about an hour. I can de-winterize in 15 minutes + fresh water tank fill time.

[Wundertaker]

There's two things I've realized about this thread.

1) The OP already had his mind made up before posting this thread.

2) Personally, I don't like to take a simple process and complicate it with potential outcomes that would make things much less simple to rectify.

Safe and happy travels all...

[APerrone]

Originally Posted by Murphcrud

PLEASE DON'T TAKE THIS THE WRONG WAY

I am not asking for advisc on what you do, I am asking if anyone has done it this way. To the guy who suggested that water could still get trapped in bends etc., as I stated, I am driving 75 miles, sloshing any remaining water in these bends or loops, allowing them to drain out.

I AM AGAIN ASKING IF ANYONE OUT THERE HAS TRIED THIS METHOD.
DON'T KNOCK IT UNTIL YOU HAVE TRIED IT.

Thanks Guys.

Yes, I have tried it and even did more. Granted it was years ago, but you never know what the manufacturers will do with the construction.

Back in the 1980s, I owned a Travelcraft with a stand alone ice maker on the curb side. The manufacturer ran the water line through a slot in the plywood floor from the street side to the curb side, then covered the slot with a thin strip of aluminum flashing, then covered it all with a nice thick pile rug. After driving a whole day with all the faucets open and all the drains open, I ALSO BLEW OUT THE LINES!!! I live in Upstate New York and the temperature went below zero for two months.

For those that think just blowing out the lines is enough, it isn't!

When spring came I hooked up to water and saw the rug start to get wet. I had to remove the couch, the ice maker that was built into a cabinet that opened into a bar, and a barrel chair in order to turn back the rug and remove the flashing to get at the tube in the floor which I repaired and reinstalled all of the above. Blowing out the lines were not enough! After that experience, I always pumped the pink antifreeze through every water line until it came out of every outlet including making pink ice! it also took care of the P traps, the toilet, the shower hoses and the black & gray holding tanks.

Now that I am retired, I don't do any of that winterizing, I drive the coach south where it doesn't freeze and plug it in with the heat on inside and in the basement, I go north without the coach and return after the holidays to travel the south for the rest of the winter.

[claresutton]

I used to drain the lines, blow them out, then add 2-2.5 jugs of antifreeze to my holding tank and then run each Fawcett including the toilet until the red appears. Then I would add antifreeze to each drain for the traps. I still do all of this but I skip blowing out the lines. Seems like a waste of time if your draining and filling with antifreeze. It's worked for years.

[pktbox]

Originally Posted by Murphcrud

No need to blow out the lines as there will be nothing to blow out.This method is only a theory

What would be any advantage on not blowing out the lines, as it takes an extra 2 min, at a gas station to attach the air hose to the water line valve when you check your tires? (btw: I never use any pink in the supply system, my lows here are -5 degrees)

[moorwoble]

Not trying to be snarky, but you are asking someone to try it & then get back to you if their waterlines freeze & crack??? Hmmm. I’ve worked in an RV dealership & winterized hundreds of boats & rvs. The water WILL run back to settle in the low spots.

[Leevormelker]

I tried the "Blowing out the lines" method last winter. All the water lines survived except the carbon filter in the Automated Ice Cube line. Even the antifreeze juice will not reach That filter. This year I'm using the antifreeze solution plus removal of the water filter. Trying to save a few bucks of about an hour of your time will be rewarded by avoiding a very expensive and elusive failure. Regards Lee

[winniman]

I think for the seasoned rver, the best method is always all three. Drain, blow, and pink. This has the least chance of having damage to something.

[cjmead]

When you pump through Pink you are using the water pump to do so...this fills it and the lines at the same time.

[rameyer84]

I do not live in a very cold region, but it does freeze over night here a couple dozen times in the winter. Blowing out the lines works great for me.

Last winter, the rig was in the shop when a big freeze came. The shop said not to worry, they would winterize it. They used the pink stuff. Guess what, they missed the ice maker line and it froze and split open.

The theme here through all these posts seems to be how careful and meticulous you are with the winterizing, no matter what method.

[A32Deuce]

X2!

[1982]

Originally Posted by pktbox

What would be any advantage on not blowing out the lines, as it takes an extra 2 min, at a gas station to attach the air hose to the water line valve when you check your tires?

Years ago I had a gas station air compressor spit out some oil....