RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > iRV2.com COMMUNITY FORUMS > iRV2.com General Discussion
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 10-18-2018, 08:13 AM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 56
Winterizing MH by Draining Water ONLY

Hello Guys,

I already know what most of you guys will say before you even finish reading this, but for the ones who winterize by blowing out the lines only, with a bit of antifreeze in each trap, I have a thought that I would like to share.

On your final outing before leaving your dump station, drain hot water, and thoroughly drain holding tanks with all taps, inside and out fully opened, including shower. All drain points will also be left open until we arrive at our MH parking space for the winter which will be 75 miles from last outing site. ALL water will be drained leaving you to just add a cup full of antifreeze to each p-trap.

No need to blow out the lines as there will be nothing to blow out.This method is only a theory and am wondering if anyone has done this up in the Great White North or Michigan, New York, or other border States.

Someone is going to say, "Why would you even attempt to do this???" "Use antifreeze, it's cheap and safer"
I am only addressing anyone who has an opinion on my theory, not the antifreeze users.

This posting is meant for ONLY those who blow out their water lines -----, I have been blowing out the lines over many years without the use of antifreeze (except final cup in traps).

Thanks guys
__________________

Murphcrud is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 10-18-2018, 08:35 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
A32Deuce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,156
There are places where water could collect, freeze and cause problems. I will blow lines 3 times and put AF in traps. Better yet, head South when it gets to freezing!
__________________

A32Deuce is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2018, 08:42 AM   #3
IC2
Senior Member
 
IC2's Avatar


 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 2,222
MH or towable, there are places in the water line routes that will be below the drains or will have loops that wont drain. Then there is that toilet vacuum breaker, a sink sprayer and shower hose Blow it out and if in a very cold climate, even adding some pink stuff is a good idea. I have to say that after doing a repair on an ancient Kountry Aire that had copper lines, it ain't fun - and today's PEX lines even less so with special tools and fittings needed.

I drained our 5er last week and it was empty - NOT. Blowing it out yesterday got at least another quart or two out of those water lines.
__________________
Dave W along with my DW, Susan and our poodlepups, Callie & Molly,2011 Ford F250 6.7 CCLB, 5er Hitch Option w/B&W Hitch,,Ride Rite air bags, 2014 Montana High Country 343RL (38')w/disc brakes
IC2 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2018, 08:44 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 838
I drain the lines, blow out the lines, fill with AF,drain the lines, blow out the lines, add AF to each p-trap, toilet, one quart AF to each holding tank.

Ready for hibernation.
NITEHAWK is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2018, 09:52 AM   #5
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by NITEHAWK View Post
I drain the lines, blow out the lines, fill with AF,drain the lines, blow out the lines, add AF to each p-trap, toilet, one quart AF to each holding tank.

Ready for hibernation.

PLEASE DON'T TAKE THIS THE WRONG WAY

I am not asking for advisc on what you do, I am asking if anyone has done it this way. To the guy who suggested that water could still get trapped in bends etc., as I stated, I am driving 75 miles, sloshing any remaining water in these bends or loops, allowing them to drain out.

I AM AGAIN ASKING IF ANYONE OUT THERE HAS TRIED THIS METHOD.
DON'T KNOCK IT UNTIL YOU HAVE TRIED IT.

Thanks Guys.
Murphcrud is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2018, 10:13 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
A32Deuce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,156
Do it and tell us how it worked out for you!
A32Deuce is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2018, 10:27 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 838
Living here in Northern Wisconsin where temps can get down to the -20s during the winter, I would rather be safe than sorry. Seems you are convinced your way is best so go ahead and do it.
Simple physics says you cannot sway or slam on the brakes or accelerate fast enough to remove water from any sags in your water system, but do what makes you feel good. The rest of us will do what makes us feel good.
NITEHAWK is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2018, 10:29 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
BobGed's Avatar
 
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Carson City, NV
Posts: 2,133
My opinion is even after going through the procedures you state, if you were to blow the lines out you would still have water coming out of the lines.

Very simple test just to confirm.
__________________
Bob, Sherron & Kinsey (Goldendoodle)
2017 Tiffin Phaeton 40QBH
2014 Jeep Cherokee Limited
BobGed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2018, 10:46 AM   #9
Member
 
Truckerdave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Flushing, Michigan
Posts: 69
Living in Michigan I would not even consider this method. Compressed air is pretty cheap. So is antifreeze compared to a repair. Your method would remove a lot of the water but not 100%.
Truckerdave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2018, 10:54 AM   #10
IC2
Senior Member
 
IC2's Avatar


 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 2,222
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murphcrud View Post
PLEASE DON'T TAKE THIS THE WRONG WAY

I am not asking for advisc on what you do, I am asking if anyone has done it this way. To the guy who suggested that water could still get trapped in bends etc., as I stated, I am driving 75 miles, sloshing any remaining water in these bends or loops, allowing them to drain out.

I AM AGAIN ASKING IF ANYONE OUT THERE HAS TRIED THIS METHOD.
DON'T KNOCK IT UNTIL YOU HAVE TRIED IT.

Thanks Guys.
That wont make a bit of difference to those low spots. I opened ours as we left the last CG, 110 miles away and still got a quart or so of water out.

Don't try to cheap out for 5-6 bucks and an hour's time. It's a pay a few bucks now or a lot later. But of course., and as always, your choice on how you use your RV

(As A320 said above. try it then tell us how much fun it is next spring)
__________________
Dave W along with my DW, Susan and our poodlepups, Callie & Molly,2011 Ford F250 6.7 CCLB, 5er Hitch Option w/B&W Hitch,,Ride Rite air bags, 2014 Montana High Country 343RL (38')w/disc brakes
IC2 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2018, 11:39 AM   #11
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 8
I live up in northern British Columbia we get -40 degrees I use your method and then blow with compressed air and a lot more water comes out.
I have never had a single problem in 16 years.
canimkid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2018, 11:54 AM   #12
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 312
Do it at your own risk. Prior to full timing I lived in saint Louis MO. Had a fifth wheel that I always winterized using the pink fluid. Unit was in barn. One spring I went to use unit and had a leak from fitting under sink that cracked over the winter. I figured it was due to a small amount of water that froze. To do rig only required two gallons of fluid. Chance of water blowing lines at low spots even after drive would keep me winterizing with pink fluid.

Good luck with what ever you do.
__________________
Bob & Jenise Full timers
2008 Newmar Essex 4510 All Electric 500 ISM
2017 Jeep Rubicon
Trapperbob11 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2018, 12:44 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 448
I have been doing it the way you said for the last few years. After dump I open the drains and taps drive it to my shop (about 5 miles) clean it put in the irish spring and bounce sheets then drive another 5 miles to where I park it for the winter.
Only once have I had an issue and it was because I forgot that the kitchen sink had a hose for the head so you could use it a s sprayer. So it hung low and never drained.
__________________
99 Rexhall Rose Air F53 Chassis
2015 Rubicon Toad
Craig1960 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2018, 12:47 PM   #14
Senior Member - DIYer
 
Waiter21's Avatar


 
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: NW Ohio
Posts: 4,796
If you knew all the plumbing, inside and out, and knew that there were no low points that could collect water (or condensation), then yes, this could work.. But if you miss one, the damage can be substantial.

Immediately after we bought our New-to-us Southwind, I discovered a small leak in the gray water drain pipe.. I suspect the MH had been winterized, but due to the way the drain pipe was routed, water either accumulated in it or didn't completely drain out because there was a low point in the routing of the pipe.

Extra insurance. I drain the tanks, then run a few gallons of antifreeze through all the plumbing, pump, water heater, p traps, and drain pipes. Its a little bit of a pain, but I can do it in 15 minutes. I do this the last time I do a dump before tucking the MH away for the winter.

We'll get below zero temperatures here for weeks at a time,. If there is any water in the tanks, pipes, or pumps, it will freeze solid, potentially breaking the pipe.

Menards (big box hardware store like Home Depot or Lowe's) has RV antifreeze on sale a couple times a year for $1.99 a gallon. I buy it a case at a time as I usually end up winterizing two times a year.

Gray tank water leak – 1999 Southwind 35S
__________________

__________________
1999 Fleetwood Southwind 35S (Ford F53 6.8L V10 4R100) - Toad 2003 Saturn Vue.
(www.1999Southwind.com)

It won't do MACH 2, but I can get a sandwich and take a pee.
Waiter21 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
water, winter



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Draining my fresh water tank---WINTERIZING A NEWMAR noserider Newmar Owner's Forum 33 05-31-2017 11:50 AM
Draining water heater while winterizing tinkerreknit 5th Wheel Discussion 15 10-31-2014 10:24 PM
Winterizing & Un-Winterizing michguy Class A Motorhome Discussions 5 11-01-2012 03:19 PM
Winterizing with the winterizing system Ripperfarms Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 7 10-09-2012 07:54 PM
Winterizing= Draining Hot Water & Fresh Tank sprintnut 5th Wheel Discussion 11 12-28-2010 09:41 PM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:34 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.