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Old 11-01-2011, 12:48 AM   #15
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Just spent the last five days in the mountains...with no woodstove and only propane/electric heat....the heater runs almost non stop to maintain 20degreesC...if i'm going to keep this rig I need a woodstove for sure...lol... It was only -3C outside and it's hard to keep the motorhome warm not to mention the wet type heat from propane....i'm starting to get attached to this motorhome...if i keep it it will get a woodstove...
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Old 11-01-2011, 11:34 AM   #16
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Got a neighbor in the park who has a wood stove in an early 90s Pace Arrow .

You might want to bolster yer insulation, when it gets cold I put in window inserts made of foil sided foam board. I have an insert for the cabover vent as well, but it has little louvered vents in it so I can leave that vent cracked to allow moisture exchange.

Furnace runs about once every 30 minutes when it gets below freezing for about 5-10 minutes to bring the temp up.

You can usually adjust how frequently it cycles by adjusting the number of degrees the thermostat will allow lost before it kicks on. I pushed mine out to the max so it'll cooling about 5 degrees before the furnace kicks on again.

Also keep the temp setting around 65 when awake and around 60 when asleep and it'll slow down how long that furnace runs .
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Old 11-01-2011, 01:30 PM   #17
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One of the reason we bought a Newmar as they have a very high (for an RV) insulation rating, then we added the optional extra roof insulation and double pane windows to the order. We don't have much trouble maintaining a nice temp inside. We can hardly tell it's raining out unless it's really hard rain.
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Old 11-17-2011, 11:59 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedneckExpress View Post
Got a neighbor in the park who has a wood stove in an early 90s Pace Arrow .

You might want to bolster yer insulation, when it gets cold I put in window inserts made of foil sided foam board. I have an insert for the cabover vent as well, but it has little louvered vents in it so I can leave that vent cracked to allow moisture exchange.

Furnace runs about once every 30 minutes when it gets below freezing for about 5-10 minutes to bring the temp up.

You can usually adjust how frequently it cycles by adjusting the number of degrees the thermostat will allow lost before it kicks on. I pushed mine out to the max so it'll cooling about 5 degrees before the furnace kicks on again.

Also keep the temp setting around 65 when awake and around 60 when asleep and it'll slow down how long that furnace runs .
Cool but you are in a truck camper (smaller) and i'm in a Class A motorhome (bigger) so I could insulate windows etc etc...but in the end the heater wont cut it..it's not enough to keep you warm anything past minus 5C..or 22F...Plus it's not parked in a "park" I take it all over exclusivly boondocking....right now it is -17C or -2F...getting chilly...lol
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Old 11-18-2011, 12:22 PM   #19
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Been dry camping plenty up in our mountains with snow piled 15 feet or higher on either side of the road. Haven't hit below zero, yet, down into the 5-15 degree range, but my 3 deep cycles and my furnace do a pretty bang up job of keeping the camper warm with my itty bitty 14,000 BTU furnace, which only draws 4.6 amps when running. If your existing furnace, which is likely 18,000-22,000 BTU isn't doing a good job, your heating system likely has leaks, or you need to do some winterization work to reduce your heat loss.

In a pinch, I can simply fill the generator gas tank and plug and leave it running overnight (1.5 gallons will last me 8 hours on a half load) to either charge the batteries, or run my little 1500/750 watt electric backup heater.

The secret to keeping the batteries up through the night is to:

A.) Have a big bank, with a class A, you should be sporting 4 golf cart batteries at least for the house, you've got the weight capacity .

B.) Heat them with battery warmers using your generator till about the time you go to sleep, it'll take most of the night before they lose enough heat to start dropping capacity, by then you'll be awake and ready to run the generator again to make coffee, run the microwave, etc... etc...

You would really be surprised at how much heat you lose through those giant single pane picture windows that the big A's have, remember glass has an R factor of 0, and those cold entry points (Plastic roof vents).
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Old 11-18-2011, 05:44 PM   #20
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I hear what u r saying. My furnace is an SF-30 Suburban. Someone said it is 30,000 BTU's and I know I have a few leaks for sure but that little bit will still not make it warm unless that thing runs non stop and still and won't be enough..I'm not into this "put on an extra sweater and socks" etc etc... I want to be warm..PERIOD! lol I don't want to have a noisy generator run all night..been there done that...It was costing me 10 dollars a night to run a 2500 watt generator and It was survivable at -10C but still not comfortable...not to mension the fact I had to get it started at -30C when I got home from work etc...remember I live in the bush for over two years and two winters before that I spent with only electric and propane heat and it is such a pain in the A$$! I'm young and in great shape and it was still a workout just trying to live!
One day when you are in a Class A motor like mine and in freezing temps,you'll understand...lol My living space is 3 1/2 times the size of yours...14,000 BTU's X 3 1/2 is 49,000 BTU's....Im pluged into shore power and the heater runs almost non stop with a secondary electric heater as well. My toes are cold with my slippers on....I'm not going to argue...it's cold here and I'm cold...when I can this rig will get the woodstove and I'll be happy and have more time and money from not messing around with this other retarded heat source...

P.S here is a pic of another guy I know that put a woodstove in his little camper for full time living...

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Old 11-18-2011, 06:11 PM   #21
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And here's the woodstove I made for my old Scamper Motorhome....I would stoke it up and damper it down and when I got back from work 7-10 hrs later it was still toasy warm inside and just enough coals to get the fire going again...heated my water on it for showers,cooked on it,dried my clothes out around it etc etc...that warm soothing heat........
It was a great little stove and the first and only i've ever built. It was a little finiky but after much time with it I mastered it and knew everything it was ever going to do...like when it would have a fit and "chug" and smoke would shoot out he intake damper...lol It was starving for air and I think it would have been better with a 4 or 5" pipe rather than the 6" double wall stainless I put on it...when its minus 30C outside you take what u can get...lol and 6" was all the hardware store had.
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Old 11-19-2011, 04:48 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLNSMOKE View Post
I hear what u r saying. My furnace is an SF-30 Suburban. Someone said it is 30,000 BTU's and I know I have a few leaks for sure but that little bit will still not make it warm unless that thing runs non stop and still and won't be enough..I'm not into this "put on an extra sweater and socks" etc etc... I want to be warm..PERIOD! lol I don't want to have a noisy generator run all night..been there done that...It was costing me 10 dollars a night to run a 2500 watt generator and It was survivable at -10C but still not comfortable...not to mension the fact I had to get it started at -30C when I got home from work etc...remember I live in the bush for over two years and two winters before that I spent with only electric and propane heat and it is such a pain in the A$$! I'm young and in great shape and it was still a workout just trying to live!
One day when you are in a Class A motor like mine and in freezing temps,you'll understand...lol My living space is 3 1/2 times the size of yours...14,000 BTU's X 3 1/2 is 49,000 BTU's....Im pluged into shore power and the heater runs almost non stop with a secondary electric heater as well. My toes are cold with my slippers on....I'm not going to argue...it's cold here and I'm cold...when I can this rig will get the woodstove and I'll be happy and have more time and money from not messing around with this other retarded heat source...

P.S here is a pic of another guy I know that put a woodstove in his little camper for full time living...

Actually, I plan to get myself a 30-32 TT for my permanent residence, similar to my folk's rig, which has been in said extreme temperatures and stayed quite toasty warm with its properly insulated and ducted furnace of 28,000 BTU.
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Old 11-19-2011, 07:22 PM   #23
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From your picture that is a class B motorhome that did not have a long time in production before the van-front class C came along.
My Jayco Seneca is called a Super-C but to me should really be called a class B motorhome.
Nice piece of equipment you have there.
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Old 11-19-2011, 09:46 PM   #24
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Quote:
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Actually, I plan to get myself a 30-32 TT for my permanent residence, similar to my folk's rig, which has been in said extreme temperatures and stayed quite toasty warm with its properly insulated and ducted furnace of 28,000 BTU.

I'm sure if I had all the windows insulated it would be "not bad"..It was -34C this morning so that's -30F...But since I don't stay in one spot I'm not going to waste time pluging off all the windows just to take them off every couple days...My water lines froze for the first time tonight...that furnace runs almost non stop...The idea with the woodstove is I can have a cozy nice warm sleep and still be able to drive it around the next day...And where I want to put the woodstove is closer to the front of the motorhome so even my big picture windows will be thaw'd so just start up and go...no more waiting 15 minutes to have engine warm up plus have electric heaters with generator running to thaw out those windows...
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Old 11-19-2011, 09:53 PM   #25
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P.S..buddy that had the 29' TT with a woodstove made out of a keg..lol built a tank that sat near his WS and it had a thermister switch on it I think it's called...When the water got hot it would turn on the water pump and it would pump hot water into the fresh water tanks.The resevoir would fill with cold water and it turned the pump off.It worked so good that it actually kept his floor warmer because the water tanks weren't freezing cold. He only needed it when the temps got to -40C plus...Otherwise the lines were fine from that nice dry heat of the WS.
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Old 03-29-2012, 12:12 PM   #26
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Hi ~
New to the forum ~ found it by typing in "RV Woodstove" ~ I live in Oregon, and just found a local supplier that builds RV woodstoves. Check out this website for installation info http://lesharorv.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1539
and video and others by the distributor. http://youtu.be/JuUIjW3p25Q
Im still looking tho ~ even tho I saw this wood stove up close and personal and think its an awesome stove ..its just its a brand new product and is out of my price range. Im looking for more like 500.00 and under. The great thing about this stove tho and what I'd like in whatever I do decide on ...is the design.
It starts with "Intake" coming from below the RV with hose and vents, up thru the floor to the stove. And the stove 'outtake' pretty much straight up and out 2-3ft on top. The piping is double lined and the stove itself is self contained. Burns cut up sections of the pressed logs you can get at the grocery store or simlar size wood pieces (and coal if one would like)
So that all said...please visit the links...I think it'd answer a lot of the questions on here ..and would be good for someone with the money to purhase ... but also looking at the design ~ can someone advise me on a similar type thats more in a girls $500.00 budget?
Note ~ right now I have a Prairie Schooner 37ft, planted on a piece of property in the country. Its really self contained, piped into a sewer and water line..and main electric but if the SHTF ~ Id love to have a small wood/cook stove to turn to for heat and cooking ; when the propane runs out. Thanks
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Old 03-29-2012, 12:28 PM   #27
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The only thing I know of, but nowhere near as compact is the harbor freight classic cast iron wood stoves which can be had for around $200, but need alot more floor space that that rather pricey jobby.
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Old 03-30-2012, 10:38 AM   #28
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Some compact woodstoves for under 300.00

Quote:
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The only thing I know of, but nowhere near as compact is the harbor freight classic cast iron wood stoves which can be had for around $200, but need alot more floor space that that rather pricey jobby.
Thank you for your return ~ I do know of some like you mentioned above. They look compact and good for tent camping. Im not sure how ideal for inisde an RV but I am contemplating modifying one to see ~ the price is right for a trial an error type thing (long as the error is only that its not right and I dont burn down my RV )
I like the look of the round one but it seems too small, and the military one seems large but compact enough but ..well is ugly LOL ...Most likely I'd be trying the military one ...because it boasts putting out more heat.

still looking for a simlar one to the Kimberly tho ...so will wait for more feedback before I do anything.
Here's links to the ones mentioned in this post.
Great Northern Camp Stove - 389662, Stoves at Sportsman's Guide Small round camp woodstove $79.97

Military - Style Swedish Yukon Wood Stove, Black - 759104, Stoves at Sportsman's Guide Military wood stove $149.97

Now here's one on Sportsman Guide site ..that may work and looks nice..
Large Cast Iron Logwood Stove - 609100, Heating & Cooling at Sportsman's Guide $299.97
Iron upright pot belly stove.
Hmmmm ~ any thoughts on that one?

Thanks
Ani
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