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09-22-2019, 01:20 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Ukraine
Posts: 71
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Workhorse Chevrolet 8.1
Hello, I’m a uk owner of a stratus r/vision rv, on a workhorse chassis, I’m coming up for my first winter, and I’m very disappointed in the furnace on my rv, and I’m wondering if something is wrong, as the heat is pretty tame.. on the floor of the rv is x3 6” vents , this is a 29’ van, the heat that comes out is very low, is it supposed to be hot and powerful? If so, I’m wondering if there is a hole in the piping/heating system?
Secondly, I have got a fridge freezer that does not work, I’ve been told they cannot be repaired, so, I’ve got this idea into my head to throw it out and put a log burner in, I began to try to remove the fridge, then I see 2 copper pipes going into bottom of fridge, I think it will be gasoline, can anybody tell me how to ‘cap this off” make it safe? Also the electrics, but I think I can just take fuse out and tape off?
I would also like to hear from some of you American people about your thoughts on a logburner?
If I could rely on my furnace I wouldn’t need a burner, are you guys happy with only your furnace for heat?
I’m in Ukraine, we can get -30 here but not often, thanks in advance.
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09-22-2019, 02:06 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 2,476
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Would be useful to know the make/model of your furnace. The one in my 30' class A on a workhorse runs about 20 minutes out of every hour, keeping the interior at 68F with the outside temps in the upper 20's. It has a single air inlet at the floor and ducts heat to 4 or 5 floor registers from front to back of the coach. I would guess it could keep up in even colder temperatures but we don't see those often where I live.
The ducting is sheet metal and quite durable but it might be compromised where it encounters a floor register. If it's leaking out anywhere that would be the first place I would look at. The idea of replacing a refrigerator with a wood stove (I think that's what you're proposing) wouldn't be in the top five things I'd do, but if that's what you like then you can do whatever you want, and can afford.
Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
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09-22-2019, 02:10 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Houma La
Posts: 161
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I'd think your furnace is propane . Check the fan that pushes air into the ductwork. It may need a good cleaning and lubrication. Vacume the ductwork and reverse the vacuum so you push air thru the ducts one at a time by closing off the other two. For the refrigerator it is by 120 volt 60cycle if from the USA. Or by propane gas by selecting at refrigerator control. If installation of a wood burner or propane burner the exhaust vent is a must or you'll have carbon monoxide inside the unit .
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09-22-2019, 08:25 PM
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#4
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: West Palm Beach, FL. USA
Posts: 27,563
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Crushed or kinked furnace ducts are common problems in an RV. Also, the flow of air to the furthest away ducts is seldom all that good. Ones within several feet of the furnace should be strong and hot, though.
The fridge will have a single propane tube running to it, usually copper. If it has an ice maker, there will also be a water line but that is usually plastic tubing.
__________________
Gary Brinck
Former owner of 2004 American Tradition and several other RVs
Home is West Palm Beach, FL
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09-23-2019, 04:49 AM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Ukraine
Posts: 71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark_K5LXP
Would be useful to know the make/model of your furnace. The one in my 30' class A on a workhorse runs about 20 minutes out of every hour, keeping the interior at 68F with the outside temps in the upper 20's. It has a single air inlet at the floor and ducts heat to 4 or 5 floor registers from front to back of the coach. I would guess it could keep up in even colder temperatures but we don't see those often where I live.
The ducting is sheet metal and quite durable but it might be compromised where it encounters a floor register. If it's leaking out anywhere that would be the first place I would look at. The idea of replacing a refrigerator with a wood stove (I think that's what you're proposing) wouldn't be in the top five things I'd do, but if that's what you like then you can do whatever you want, and can afford.
Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
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Mark where is this register you mention? The ducting? Where can I inspect it? And where can I find he make of my furnace?
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09-23-2019, 04:51 AM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Ukraine
Posts: 71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaearhart
I'd think your furnace is propane . Check the fan that pushes air into the ductwork. It may need a good cleaning and lubrication. Vacume the ductwork and reverse the vacuum so you push air thru the ducts one at a time by closing off the other two. For the refrigerator it is by 120 volt 60cycle if from the USA. Or by propane gas by selecting at refrigerator control. If installation of a wood burner or propane burner the exhaust vent is a must or you'll have carbon monoxide inside the unit .
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Where can I find the fan that pushes the air through the ducting, I think this might be the cure
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09-23-2019, 04:55 AM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Ukraine
Posts: 71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer
Crushed or kinked furnace ducts are common problems in an RV. Also, the flow of air to the furthest away ducts is seldom all that good. Ones within several feet of the furnace should be strong and hot, though.
The fridge will have a single propane tube running to it, usually copper. If it has an ice maker, there will also be a water line but that is usually plastic tubing.
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Will the ‘furthest away” duct be at front or back of van? Also to check out the whole ducting system, will I need to get under the van, or can I do all these checks from inside?I have 2 copper pipes I can see under my fridge, I have no clue what they are,and I’m afraid to touch them, but I want this fridge gone, will thee be any ammonia problems? Can I cut these pipes, or will there be propane?
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09-23-2019, 07:40 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 5,345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guitarman3
Will the ‘furthest away” duct be at front or back of van? Also to check out the whole ducting system, will I need to get under the van, or can I do all these checks from inside?I have 2 copper pipes I can see under my fridge, I have no clue what they are,and I’m afraid to touch them, but I want this fridge gone, will thee be any ammonia problems? Can I cut these pipes, or will there be propane?
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Just looking at a youtube video on a 2002 Stratus, it shows the furnace outside, just left of the main entry door. Yours could have a different floor plan so the furnace could be in a different place, maybe even possibly on the other side of the motorhome.
Here's the video.
At about the 22 second mark, you'll see the refrigerator, the furnace, and the hot water heater. The furnace is behind the smaller rectangular shaped cover right below the larger refrigerator intake vent. Turn on the furnace and you should be able to hear the fan running behind the cover. Four screws hold the cover on.
On the refrigerator copper lines, one is most likely a propane gas supply line. I've never seen a frig with two copper lines but I suppose the other might be a water feed to an ice maker. DO NOT disconnect either until you know that propane and water is shut off and you have a way to cap them.
__________________
03 Itasca Sunova, Workhorse P32 with the 8.1 and 4L85-E
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09-23-2019, 09:08 AM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Ukraine
Posts: 71
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When you speak about the furnace, I’m assuming the furnace is at rear? As the last floor grill at back of van is hotter, and has more power, whilst the floor grill at front of van is weak and only warm..
Where would the ducting be other than in them grills? I cleaned the grills out, there was a lot of dirt in there, but, it has not improved very much.
Also another gentleman here mentioned checking the fan, again, where will this fan be?
I’ve noticed when furnace is on, there is a fan noise, and it seems to be coming from a raised plinth underneath the fridge, looks like a hooded extractor to me?
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09-23-2019, 09:18 AM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Ukraine
Posts: 71
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Yes, this is the same as my van, except my fridge/freezer is opposite the door as you walk in, I’m sure there is a fan under the fridge plinth
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09-23-2019, 09:20 AM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Ukraine
Posts: 71
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Floor register? Are they the 3 grills in the floor ? Where do you think the fan is, and can that be blocked?
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10-04-2019, 02:20 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guitarman3
Hello, I’m a uk owner of a stratus r/vision rv, on a workhorse chassis, I’m coming up for my first winter, and I’m very disappointed in the furnace on my rv, and I’m wondering if something is wrong, as the heat is pretty tame.. on the floor of the rv is x3 6” vents , this is a 29’ van, the heat that comes out is very low, is it supposed to be hot and powerful? If so, I’m wondering if there is a hole in the piping/heating system?
Secondly, I have got a fridge freezer that does not work, I’ve been told they cannot be repaired, so, I’ve got this idea into my head to throw it out and put a log burner in, I began to try to remove the fridge, then I see 2 copper pipes going into bottom of fridge, I think it will be gasoline, can anybody tell me how to ‘cap this off” make it safe? Also the electrics, but I think I can just take fuse out and tape off?
I would also like to hear from some of you American people about your thoughts on a logburner?
If I could rely on my furnace I wouldn’t need a burner, are you guys happy with only your furnace for heat?
I’m in Ukraine, we can get -30 here but not often, thanks in advance.
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Your power board for the furnace is probably bad. That is what sends signal to igniter to fire the furnace. All you are getting is fan air.
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10-06-2019, 07:31 AM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Ukraine
Posts: 71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark_K5LXP
Would be useful to know the make/model of your furnace. The one in my 30' class A on a workhorse runs about 20 minutes out of every hour, keeping the interior at 68F with the outside temps in the upper 20's. It has a single air inlet at the floor and ducts heat to 4 or 5 floor registers from front to back of the coach. I would guess it could keep up in even colder temperatures but we don't see those often where I live.
The ducting is sheet metal and quite durable but it might be compromised where it encounters a floor register. If it's leaking out anywhere that would be the first place I would look at. The idea of replacing a refrigerator with a wood stove (I think that's what you're proposing) wouldn't be in the top five things I'd do, but if that's what you like then you can do whatever you want, and can afford.
Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
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Mark it’s a duo therm I think, and I’m not getting much heat coming through the floor, do you have any ideas?
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10-06-2019, 07:34 AM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Ukraine
Posts: 71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeh2obury
Your power board for the furnace is probably bad. That is what sends signal to igniter to fire the furnace. All you are getting is fan air.
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Mike, the furnace works ok, what I’m not happy with, is the heat coming out of the 3 grills on the floor, people have spoken about “registers” etc, I thing they mean the ducting, I’m not sure if I have a blockage somewhere throughout the length of the van, have you any ideas about unblocking, or cleaning out registers?
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