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Old 11-10-2014, 08:37 PM   #29
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I'll be honest with you, I have no idea. As far as I know everything on it is 1990 original, to include the wheels and brakes - which are the first (and wildly expensive) order of business. I practically have to stand on the brake pedal to stop even an idle roll forward.

Any suggestions on affordable tires and drum brakes for the Tiffin?

the red button comes stander on that year

dont push it

it makes parts fall off

or was that a green or wight button


.....WOW i just seen my 1000s post is me playing around .... and i was new here not to long ago i guess ... you well be a pro soon
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Old 11-11-2014, 09:20 AM   #30
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Thanks for all the feedback - you guys rock!

I would describe the roof as "lumpy" before I'd say soft... Like the plastic cover is wavy over an even underlayer. The seam connecting the nose cone to the body leaks allegedly, and the rear passengers side wall has had some damage / weak repairs (see: duct tape).

I will make my priority the roof repair, as the rv is parked in an open air storage lot with no tags as it is and it's a sunny day. Still got to figure a way to cover this thing...

Off to work I go! Thanks again for the help everyone.
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Old 11-11-2014, 09:55 AM   #31
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Tell you what...
try an email/letter to the mfg about what you are undertaking...
you never know what might come of it - and document everything with pics and blogs...

again, you never know what might come of it

good luck !
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Old 11-11-2014, 02:19 PM   #32
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The roof is proving to be a challenge. Pulling up the old caulk and rubber coating is an Olympic sport! The grimy trouble spots and seams are my focus... Going to yank out the rear AC (bad compressor) eventually, but for now just prepping the roof for another caulk job and a layer of the rubber stuff.

Little uneasy about how/why the black nasty stuff under the rubber I'm pulling up is moist.
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Old 11-12-2014, 10:19 AM   #33
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The black nasty stuff is likely black mold. It is nasty and should be handled carefully. Can cause serious issues with people who have respiratory issues. Can cause problems in healthy folks with extended exposure. Good mask to avoid inhaling it. Spray on vinegar to kill it, lots of vinegar!

I would remove any material that has the mold on it and replace it. If you will be full timing it is in your best interests.

From the sound of your post it would seem the mold is widespread. It may be of benefit to bite the bullet and replace the entire roof. I did that with our 5er as it was easier than trying to patch and cost very little more. I also wanted all traces of mold gone.

Of concern would be if the water and mold has got into the walls. Any instances should be removed and replaced as well.
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Old 11-12-2014, 02:01 PM   #34
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I think you're right - I just wished I had read this sooner. Got the roof preped for taping and caulking and spent buku bucks online for said caulk & tape. In the meantime, I'm going to tarp the roof and checkout the interior walls/ceiling. Lowes also has an elastomeric roof paint I've been eyeballing. Will add 60 lbs to my rig though.

Also, both ac units are broken. One has a bad fan motor and the other a bad compressor. Will be yanking those out and plexiglass will fill the holes for now maybe? If I could afford two fantastic fans to put in I would... Humbug.
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Old 11-12-2014, 03:26 PM   #35
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Try a product called Concrobium. It comes in a spray bottle already mixed in the paint section (I got at Home Depot) or powder that you mix. It is great at killing mold and keeping it from coming back. My understanding (from a friend who used it on a pop-up canvas) said it was gone very fast.

I imagine they would have it at Lowes too. Supposedly can be sprayed on wood too. Good Luck!
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Old 11-13-2014, 02:48 PM   #36
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Sounds like you will be having to do a lot of work on this unit. IMO before you get too far you should investigate all of the issues. It may be cheaper to find another unit to spend your time and money on.

On the other side of the coin the unit you have is a classic. Although it may take a lot of effort and substantial funds you will have something that you can point at with pride and will be a conversation piece.

A benefit/cost analysis will go a long way to help you determine if you should continue to work with this unit.
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Old 11-13-2014, 03:10 PM   #37
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Welcome!
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Old 11-13-2014, 11:31 PM   #38
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Late welcome to you Tony,

As you can see, lots of knowledgeable people here to help you. That's what makes this a great forum.

Safe travels to you,

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Old 11-14-2014, 08:15 AM   #39
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Ok, expanding on my Which Converter post.

First: It runs... That's more than my 2005 does (Sad grin).

Now the converter: Magneteks were common back then if that is what you have may I recommend an upgrade to a Progressive Dynamics Intellapower which model depends on your unit, For power-center/converter combination units, 4600 line
For stand alone 9200 line (With or without optional dongle) is best in my opinon. or a 9100 with the wizard.
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Old 11-14-2014, 07:07 PM   #40
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Wow. Thanks again to all and this is so much work!

The cold and wet has certainly changed my direction in the rebuild. Tarped the roof for now and began hitting the interior. Mouse poop. Pounds of mouse poop. Did find some cool stuff though - like a flare gun! Pretty cool bonus if you ask me. Also got a fogger and mold killer liquid, so once the interior is gutted I will fog it out.

I can't even find the converter wa8yxm, but I'm certain it will need an upgrade. I'm trying to keep things low tech aka low cost but I bought a 1000 genny to help me work on the rig since there's no wired power in the storage yard.

Will post pics when able.

Tony
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Old 11-15-2014, 06:18 AM   #41
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What size engine in your recliner?

Twalls,

Noticed your pic before but didn't ask, but am curious, what size engine do you have in your recliner? Saw a pic of a wheelchair made out of a plane turret from WWII not long ago and it had been restored to work, it was amazing!
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Old 11-15-2014, 06:38 AM   #42
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Try a product called Concrobium. It comes in a spray bottle already mixed in the paint section (I got at Home Depot) or powder that you mix. It is great at killing mold and keeping it from coming back. My understanding (from a friend who used it on a pop-up canvas) said it was gone very fast.

I imagine they would have it at Lowes too. Supposedly can be sprayed on wood too. Good Luck!
Concrobium really works.

Bruce
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