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11-10-2014, 07:37 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twalls
I'll be honest with you, I have no idea. As far as I know everything on it is 1990 original, to include the wheels and brakes - which are the first (and wildly expensive) order of business. I practically have to stand on the brake pedal to stop even an idle roll forward.
Any suggestions on affordable tires and drum brakes for the Tiffin?
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the red button comes stander on that year
dont push it
it makes parts fall off
or was that a green or wight button
.....WOW i just seen my 1000s post is me playing around .... and i was new here not to long ago i guess ... you well be a pro soon
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11-11-2014, 08:20 AM
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#30
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Junior Member
Tiffin Owners Club Solo Rvers Club
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: GA
Posts: 10
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Thanks for all the feedback - you guys rock!
I would describe the roof as "lumpy" before I'd say soft... Like the plastic cover is wavy over an even underlayer. The seam connecting the nose cone to the body leaks allegedly, and the rear passengers side wall has had some damage / weak repairs (see: duct tape).
I will make my priority the roof repair, as the rv is parked in an open air storage lot with no tags as it is and it's a sunny day. Still got to figure a way to cover this thing...
Off to work I go! Thanks again for the help everyone.
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11-11-2014, 08:55 AM
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#31
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: May 2012
Location: DFW, Tex-US
Posts: 6,196
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Tell you what...
try an email/letter to the mfg about what you are undertaking...
you never know what might come of it - and document everything with pics and blogs...
again, you never know what might come of it
good luck !
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11-11-2014, 01:19 PM
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#32
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Junior Member
Tiffin Owners Club Solo Rvers Club
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: GA
Posts: 10
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The roof is proving to be a challenge. Pulling up the old caulk and rubber coating is an Olympic sport! The grimy trouble spots and seams are my focus... Going to yank out the rear AC (bad compressor) eventually, but for now just prepping the roof for another caulk job and a layer of the rubber stuff.
Little uneasy about how/why the black nasty stuff under the rubber I'm pulling up is moist.
__________________
1990 Tiffin Open Road Motorhome | Chevy Incomplete Fwd Control 4x2 | CPC 7.4L V8 TBI
Work in progress
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11-12-2014, 09:19 AM
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#33
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 14,891
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The black nasty stuff is likely black mold. It is nasty and should be handled carefully. Can cause serious issues with people who have respiratory issues. Can cause problems in healthy folks with extended exposure. Good mask to avoid inhaling it. Spray on vinegar to kill it, lots of vinegar!
I would remove any material that has the mold on it and replace it. If you will be full timing it is in your best interests.
From the sound of your post it would seem the mold is widespread. It may be of benefit to bite the bullet and replace the entire roof. I did that with our 5er as it was easier than trying to patch and cost very little more. I also wanted all traces of mold gone.
Of concern would be if the water and mold has got into the walls. Any instances should be removed and replaced as well.
__________________
Gordon and Janet
Tour 42QD/InTech Stacker
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11-12-2014, 01:01 PM
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#34
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Junior Member
Tiffin Owners Club Solo Rvers Club
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: GA
Posts: 10
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I think you're right - I just wished I had read this sooner. Got the roof preped for taping and caulking and spent buku bucks online for said caulk & tape. In the meantime, I'm going to tarp the roof and checkout the interior walls/ceiling. Lowes also has an elastomeric roof paint I've been eyeballing. Will add 60 lbs to my rig though.
Also, both ac units are broken. One has a bad fan motor and the other a bad compressor. Will be yanking those out and plexiglass will fill the holes for now maybe? If I could afford two fantastic fans to put in I would... Humbug.
__________________
1990 Tiffin Open Road Motorhome | Chevy Incomplete Fwd Control 4x2 | CPC 7.4L V8 TBI
Work in progress
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11-12-2014, 02:26 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: MI
Posts: 4,733
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Try a product called Concrobium. It comes in a spray bottle already mixed in the paint section (I got at Home Depot) or powder that you mix. It is great at killing mold and keeping it from coming back. My understanding (from a friend who used it on a pop-up canvas) said it was gone very fast.
I imagine they would have it at Lowes too. Supposedly can be sprayed on wood too. Good Luck!
__________________
Retired January 4th, 2018 Lynne & Jerry RVM 105
04 WBGO Itasca Sunova (Miss May) Blue Ox Tow Bar
15 Equinox (Noxi) 18 RAD Mini e-bike, 04 Tracker
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11-13-2014, 01:48 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 14,891
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Sounds like you will be having to do a lot of work on this unit. IMO before you get too far you should investigate all of the issues. It may be cheaper to find another unit to spend your time and money on.
On the other side of the coin the unit you have is a classic. Although it may take a lot of effort and substantial funds you will have something that you can point at with pride and will be a conversation piece.
A benefit/cost analysis will go a long way to help you determine if you should continue to work with this unit.
__________________
Gordon and Janet
Tour 42QD/InTech Stacker
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11-13-2014, 02:10 PM
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#37
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Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sierra Vista, AZ
Posts: 56
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Welcome!
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11-13-2014, 10:31 PM
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#38
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 1,343
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Late welcome to you Tony,
As you can see, lots of knowledgeable people here to help you. That's what makes this a great forum.
Safe travels to you,
Rich
__________________
Rich & Pati
06 Outback Sydney M28-FRLS
00 F350 7.3L some Mods __03 15' Klamath SS w/30hp
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11-14-2014, 07:15 AM
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#39
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 24,024
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Ok, expanding on my Which Converter post.
First: It runs... That's more than my 2005 does (Sad grin).
Now the converter: Magneteks were common back then if that is what you have may I recommend an upgrade to a Progressive Dynamics Intellapower which model depends on your unit, For power-center/converter combination units, 4600 line
For stand alone 9200 line (With or without optional dongle) is best in my opinon. or a 9100 with the wizard.
__________________
Home is where I park it!
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11-14-2014, 06:07 PM
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#40
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Junior Member
Tiffin Owners Club Solo Rvers Club
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: GA
Posts: 10
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Wow. Thanks again to all and this is so much work!
The cold and wet has certainly changed my direction in the rebuild. Tarped the roof for now and began hitting the interior. Mouse poop. Pounds of mouse poop. Did find some cool stuff though - like a flare gun! Pretty cool bonus if you ask me. Also got a fogger and mold killer liquid, so once the interior is gutted I will fog it out.
I can't even find the converter wa8yxm, but I'm certain it will need an upgrade. I'm trying to keep things low tech aka low cost but I bought a 1000 genny to help me work on the rig since there's no wired power in the storage yard.
Will post pics when able.
Tony
__________________
1990 Tiffin Open Road Motorhome | Chevy Incomplete Fwd Control 4x2 | CPC 7.4L V8 TBI
Work in progress
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11-15-2014, 05:18 AM
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#41
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: MI
Posts: 4,733
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What size engine in your recliner?
Twalls,
Noticed your pic before but didn't ask, but am curious, what size engine do you have in your recliner? Saw a pic of a wheelchair made out of a plane turret from WWII not long ago and it had been restored to work, it was amazing!
__________________
Retired January 4th, 2018 Lynne & Jerry RVM 105
04 WBGO Itasca Sunova (Miss May) Blue Ox Tow Bar
15 Equinox (Noxi) 18 RAD Mini e-bike, 04 Tracker
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11-15-2014, 05:38 AM
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#42
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beamisl
Try a product called Concrobium. It comes in a spray bottle already mixed in the paint section (I got at Home Depot) or powder that you mix. It is great at killing mold and keeping it from coming back. My understanding (from a friend who used it on a pop-up canvas) said it was gone very fast.
I imagine they would have it at Lowes too. Supposedly can be sprayed on wood too. Good Luck!
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Concrobium really works.
Bruce
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