Water Heater Problem

[Shieldssr]

Atwood will not light on LP. Electric works fine

[Skip426]

Welcome to iRV2.

Sorry you're here with problems .

If you have someone turn the propane side of the water heater , when the water in it is cold , can you hear any clicking , when standing by the heater outside the RV?

All other propane appliances functioning normally?

[charliez]

Look thru the appliance section for suggestions. Usually if it won't light on propane your either out of propane or the line has alot of air in it. Some have inline valves. Look for one.


Another thing to look at is the lp detector. It looks like a smoke detector. Usually mounted low. it has to be in and happy for the propane to flow.


FYI. This post will probably be moved soon to the appliance section by an admin.

[Old-Biscuit]

Atwood makes lots of water heaters......
Prior to 2004 various designs
After 2004 common design


You didn't post Water Heater Model OF even Year of RV etc. so only guesses can be offered


So WELCOME and please post Model or even year and specific info will be provided

[MSHappyCampers]

Hi ! Welcome to IRV2! We're sure glad you joined the gang!

You need to post the model of the WH to get some help! Have fun and keep her between the ditches!

Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!

[Spdracr39]

Originally Posted by charliez

Look thru the appliance section for suggestions. Usually if it won't light on propane your either out of propane or the line has alot of air in it. Some have inline valves. Look for one.


Another thing to look at is the lp detector. It looks like a smoke detector. Usually mounted low. it has to be in and happy for the propane to flow.


FYI. This post will probably be moved soon to the appliance section by an admin.

My propane detector only makes a lot of noise when it detects a leak. It is not connected to the propane lines.

[Shieldssr]

The htr is an Attwood 10 gal LP/Elec. Igniter will not spark after several attempts...have replaced it 3x

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by Shieldssr

The htr is an Attwood 10 gal LP/Elec. Igniter will not spark after several attempts...have replaced it 3x

Igniter will not spark after several attempts......


Circuit bd will make 3 attempts to light-off and PROVE main flame has lit then it 'locks out' (RED Fault light on/no further attempts)

System has to be reset by turning propane switch OFF---wait 30 seconds then back ON

Then 3 more attempts...lock out etc


12V DC goes to gas valve solenoids for only 6-8 seconds while spark electrode is firing (CLICK, CLICK, CLICK)
Flame has to light off and PROVE it lit within that time frame or DC gets dropped from gas valve solenoids
BOTH solenoids have to function for gas valve to open




If propane system has not been used in awhile several attempts may be necessary in order to get propane flow completely at gas valve.


IF propane system is working for all other appliances then issue could be with spark electrode and/or circuit bd
*electrode MUST be engulfed in flame when it lights
*electrode wire connections must be clean/tight
*electrode ceramic insulator can not have cracks

*circuit bd could have faulty 'power track'


SO.......questions
1) Does flame light off at all
2) Do you know that gas valve solenoids are getting energized
3) Do other propane appliances work OK
4) Is water heater electric & propane?
5) If yes what YEAR is water heater
6) If after 2004 does electric work OK


7) Do you have a voltmeter and know how to use it

[Bob_C]

Nice signature line!....lol

[Shieldssr]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

Igniter will not spark after several attempts......


Circuit bd will make 3 attempts to light-off and PROVE main flame has lit then it 'locks out' (RED Fault light on/no further attempts)

System has to be reset by turning propane switch OFF---wait 30 seconds then back ON

Then 3 more attempts...lock out etc


12V DC goes to gas valve solenoids for only 6-8 seconds while spark electrode is firing (CLICK, CLICK, CLICK)
Flame has to light off and PROVE it lit within that time frame or DC gets dropped from gas valve solenoids
BOTH solenoids have to function for gas valve to open




If propane system has not been used in awhile several attempts may be necessary in order to get propane flow completely at gas valve.


IF propane system is working for all other appliances then issue could be with spark electrode and/or circuit bd
*electrode MUST be engulfed in flame when it lights
*electrode wire connections must be clean/tight
*electrode ceramic insulator can not have cracks

*circuit bd could have faulty 'power track'


SO.......questions
1) Does flame light off at all
2) Do you know that gas valve solenoids are getting energized
3) Do other propane appliances work OK
4) Is water heater electric & propane?
5) If yes what YEAR is water heater
6) If after 2004 does electric work OK


7) Do you have a voltmeter and know how to use it

It’s a 2007 Fleetwood Discovery. Everything works ok except the LP part of water htr. I’m aware of the insulation part of igniter can’t be cracked. I’m having trouble locating a new board. Here’s a picture...

[Shieldssr]

Originally Posted by Shieldssr

It’s a 2007 Fleetwood Discovery. Everything works ok except the LP part of water htr. I’m aware of the insulation part of igniter can’t be cracked. I’m having trouble locating a new board. Here’s a picture...
Attachment 232941Attachment 232941
Attachment 232942

[Old-Biscuit]

You have an 'XT' model ----10 gal tank/16 gal equivalent by using high temp setting t-stat (160*F) and 'mixing valve' set for 130*F output


You have the wiring diagram (same since 2004 design change) so follow the DC
Switch to circuit bd....orange wire
Circuit bd to/from T-stat...brown wire (bottom connector----top connector)
Circuit bd to gas valve ----red wire


See pg 23 in LINK (easier for me to link the test vs posting the test procedures
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Atwo...ice-manual.pdf




Atwood circuit bd.......91365 OEM
Dinosaur Electronics replacement ......UIB 64 (need protective cover)

[FixerCQI]

Sorry if this is a hijack of the thread, just ignore me, but I saw a lull in the activity. I've been following with interest as I have the same model but my problem is that the DC fuse in the fuse panel blows when I try to start on propane. As near as I can figure it must be the gas valve solenoids drawing too much current. I can still run on electric. Does that sound right to anyone. It's been raining here all day so my sugar coated self has not been outside to take any measurements yet.

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by FixerCQI

Sorry if this is a hijack of the thread, just ignore me, but I saw a lull in the activity. I've been following with interest as I have the same model but my problem is that the DC fuse in the fuse panel blows when I try to start on propane. As near as I can figure it must be the gas valve solenoids drawing too much current. I can still run on electric. Does that sound right to anyone. It's been raining here all day so my sugar coated self has not been outside to take any measurements yet.

2A fuse on circuit bd should blow if that was the problem


Need to check out the propane on/off switch and see if it has loose terminals

(as test ....remove DC power to propane switch and switch out to circuit bd from switch. Touch those 2 wires together---propane should fire. If yes...switch is shorted.)