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05-16-2014, 11:22 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 2,500
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Any 2 cycle mechanics out there ?
I have a Husqvarna weedeater,, 223L , and it's been great,, till this year. It's only 3-4 yrs old. It floods trying to start it now... New gas, new plug, good spark.. Removed the muffler , no help. I found out today if I remove the small fuel line from the primer bulb to carb it starts right up and runs great. Plug the fuel line back on to the primer bulb OR put your finger on the end of the fuel line to the carb and it dies... I pulled the carb off and cleaned it,, (it was clean) , but no help... Any idea's ??? (besides buying a new one,,, not rich) ... Thanks , Monkey
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Monkey, pilot of a Great Dane hauler,
2015 Silverado 2500 Duramax/Alison 4x4 CrewCab 2016 Cougar 28SGS
1ST CAV
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05-16-2014, 11:32 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Powell River, B.C.
Posts: 31,500
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Don't know your carb inside out , but I'm thinking, either the needle and seat is bad, or the float is saturated. The plastic floats used in many of these small carbs are coated to prevent fuel saturation, once the coating breaks down the float ; won't; carb over fills and floods the motor.
Even a layer of 2 cycle oil residue on the float can sink it.
Remove the float and place in a small container of gas , to test.
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99DSDP 3884, Freightliner, XC, CAT 3126B, 300 HP /ALLISON 3060
2000 Caravan toad, Remco & Blue Ox.
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05-16-2014, 12:04 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: AB
Posts: 7,587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkey
I have a Husqvarna weedeater,, 223L , and it's been great,, till this year. It's only 3-4 yrs old. It floods trying to start it now... New gas, new plug, good spark.. Removed the muffler , no help. I found out today if I remove the small fuel line from the primer bulb to carb it starts right up and runs great. Plug the fuel line back on to the primer bulb OR put your finger on the end of the fuel line to the carb and it dies... I pulled the carb off and cleaned it,, (it was clean) , but no help... Any idea's ??? (besides buying a new one,,, not rich) ... Thanks , Monkey
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When you had the carb apart, did you install a kit? There is a number on the carb to ID it. Likely a Walbro! Take that # to a Small Engine Shop and purchase a kit. The like of Lowes etc will look at you like you have two heads so forget that.
Also ask for the correct setting for the lever that controls the needle valve. Or, better yet, take them the carb and have them put in the kit. And get a new filter for the tank while your at it.
Tip, when you put it away for the season, dump the gas out and run the engine till it stops. Get rid of any left over fuel and start fresh in the spring. Use a one gal can for fuel. That way you don't mix more than you can use in a few weeks. Also, mix your fuel to the Exact proportions called for by the manual. Most containers of oil are sized to add to one US Gal. for a 50:1 mix.
Stale Fuel is the number one cause of trouble with these things.
Now, once you get the carb sorted out. With the choke on, pull the rope once or twice till you hear the engine Burp. Turn the Choke Off, hold the Throttle Wide Open and pull. It should start with no more than two pulls.
I used to make half of my spring revenue in my shop because of Stale Fuel.
When all else fails, Trade er in on a Yeller Dog and Shoot the Dog.
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2019 Unity LTV CB, pushed by a 2013 Honda CRV, BlueOx Baseplate, Aventa Bar & Patriot Brake
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05-16-2014, 12:40 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: AB
Posts: 7,587
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Or, option number three, for about 20 bucks, you can buy a new carb.
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2019 Unity LTV CB, pushed by a 2013 Honda CRV, BlueOx Baseplate, Aventa Bar & Patriot Brake
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05-16-2014, 12:55 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: texas
Posts: 2,423
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I have a yard care business on the side 6 echos I agree I get spare carbs from eBay it doesn't take much in the carb to not run right a kit is a few $ need it quick get a new one not saying I would not try a kit first
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05-16-2014, 01:09 PM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: DFW Texas
Posts: 65
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I had a shop for 10 years.....very common....like others stated, most likely the needle under the fuel pump diaphragm is stuck, or the diaphragm itself is no longer soft, but hard and crumbly.
If it were mine I would take the carb off, remove the cover and clean it out....depending on the carb you have, most have 4 screws. Carefully pull it apart, if it rips the gasket you will need a new kit or a carb.....kits are usually 5 - 10 $ .
Good luck
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05-16-2014, 01:21 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 2,500
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Thankyou VERY much everybody !!!! I did finally get it running a bit ago after taking the carb apart and cleaning "again",,, though this time I pulled the needle valve out, sprayed cleaner throughout,, blew out with air compressor, started right up... Cleaned the muffler with brake cleaner, blew it out,,, and when I reinstalled the muffler it ran a little worse... Seems now the high/low carb adjustment screws have little or no effect.. It won't idle,,, and after getting hot would not restart... I have not cleaned the filter in the tank yet. I'll try that next... If I can't get it going this weekend, I'll order a new carb... Thanks again, I sure do appreciatte your help !!!! Monkey
__________________
Monkey, pilot of a Great Dane hauler,
2015 Silverado 2500 Duramax/Alison 4x4 CrewCab 2016 Cougar 28SGS
1ST CAV
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05-16-2014, 01:36 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Jackson,Ohio
Posts: 398
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I don't know about a Husqvarna but I bought a brand new Stihl carb for about $20.00. A quick solution Case closed.
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05-16-2014, 10:31 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: AB
Posts: 7,587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkey
Thankyou VERY much everybody !!!! I did finally get it running a bit ago after taking the carb apart and cleaning "again",,, though this time I pulled the needle valve out, sprayed cleaner throughout,, blew out with air compressor, started right up... Cleaned the muffler with brake cleaner, blew it out,,, and when I reinstalled the muffler it ran a little worse... Seems now the high/low carb adjustment screws have little or no effect.. It won't idle,,, and after getting hot would not restart... I have not cleaned the filter in the tank yet. I'll try that next... If I can't get it going this weekend, I'll order a new carb... Thanks again, I sure do appreciatte your help !!!! Monkey
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Not sure if your time has a value but IMHO, for twenty bucks you could be getting the work done and have downed 6 beers by now instead of fiddling with the carb and wearing out the starter. That will be your next fix when the rope and or spring breaks.
That was my next biggest money maker, fixing starters on Sat morning for customers with bleeding hands,,,,,
Sent from my iPad using iRV2 - RV Forum
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2019 Unity LTV CB, pushed by a 2013 Honda CRV, BlueOx Baseplate, Aventa Bar & Patriot Brake
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05-17-2014, 02:00 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,414
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Dennis45 has this one right!!! and you probably have an air bleed plugged. I reccomend a new carp also, easyer than trying to reman yours. X2 on draining and running out of fuel at end of season. Old fuel turns to varnish and almost imposible to clean.
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Dave and Laura & two cats
02 Discovery with Accord toad
retired auto rv tech and teacher, wife rt nurse
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05-18-2014, 09:24 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 2,500
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I usually drain the gas during winter,,, but I did not last year. I figure that's my problem. Even after several trys at taking it apart and cleaning, those little air bleeds and such are SO much smaller than the Holleys and BG's I'm used to... I did get it running well enough to get most of the yard done, but I will take everybody's advice and order a new carb because it's still not right. Thanks again !!!
Monkey
__________________
Monkey, pilot of a Great Dane hauler,
2015 Silverado 2500 Duramax/Alison 4x4 CrewCab 2016 Cougar 28SGS
1ST CAV
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