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Old 08-12-2011, 01:09 PM   #29
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That's very interesting. What do you have that requires 208 or 240 volts and do you have to do anything so you can use one or the other.

I've been trying to research the new all electric RV's to see what voltage requirements they have but the specifics are hard to find. I did find a reference to air conditioning motors being 240 volts which on the 208 volt system would not work or would be damaged.
Well... to restate the motor stuff....
A 240 volt system will have a motor which has voltage rating of 230 volts. The NEMA (National Electrical Manufactures Association) states that the motor will opertat at a + or - %10 of the rating (230-%10=207, and 230+%10= 253). It will be a bit warm operating at 208 volts but if it get lower than that the built in smoke will begin to release itself. If it gets over the %10 rating the windings will begin to, as the technical term states, saturate. That condition will also allow the built in smoke tobegin to release itself.

The bottom line is the motor should have the proper voltage and HP rating for the application.
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Old 08-12-2011, 08:09 PM   #30
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I have nothing that requires 208/240 in the trailer,that is that I now of.My plugin is a 50 amp connect,that is what is labeled on the connect.Perhaps the converter is wired for 208/240 compatibility,Maybe I should read the info for the converter.
I worked with equipment that had 208/240 compatibility BUT always required a wiring option change for one or the other.Seems possible that technology may have changed.
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Old 08-13-2011, 07:58 AM   #31
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If a park has two 50 amp legs where the neutral is not the center tap (i.e. there is no voltage measured between the two hot legs), with a full load, you will be trying to draw 100 amps through a neutral wire designed to handle 50. Very dangerous.

If I don't measure 240 (or 220 or something in the neighborhood) between the two hot legs of a 50 amp plug, I don't hook up.
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Old 08-13-2011, 09:06 AM   #32
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A few points came to mind while reading the posts:
Single phase 120 volt circuits are commonly used with a common neutral, two or even three circuits as long as each is connected to a different pole. The neutral only carries the unbalanced load, it works the exact same way with 120/240.

More and more 240 volt motors (probably most new motors and air conditioners) are dual rated 208-230 volts. The tolerance on those motors are 10% on the high end and 5% on the low end which translates to 197 to 253 volts.

If you drive by the campgrounds with the systems you are probably bypassing the more modern and adequate wiring systems.
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Old 08-13-2011, 04:55 PM   #33
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...Perhaps the converter is wired for 208/240 compatibility...
Which RV convertors run on anything other than 120v?

Quote:
Originally Posted by RichR View Post
...I worked with equipment that had 208/240 compatibility BUT always required a wiring option change for one or the other.Seems possible that technology may have changed.
Sigh. It's been explained the only thing a standard RV needs is 120v. A 50A service has two 120v legs. Each one is connected to a hot leg and the neutral and doesn't give the north end of a southbound furry rodent what the voltage is across the hot leads.
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Old 08-13-2011, 05:04 PM   #34
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...More and more 240 volt motors (probably most new motors and air conditioners) are dual rated 208-230 volts. The tolerance on those motors are 10% on the high end and 5% on the low end which translates to 197 to 253 volts...
Can you give an example of an RV A/C that runs on anything other than 120v? If not, your point is moot.
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Old 08-13-2011, 05:06 PM   #35
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Sigh. It's been explained the only thing a standard RV needs is 120v. A 50A service has two 120v legs. Each one is connected to a hot leg and the neutral and doesn't give the north end of a southbound furry rodent what the voltage is across the hot leads.
I'm not sure what you mean by a "standard RV". There are common production RVs from mainline manufacturers (like Newmar or Tiffen) that have 240V appliances in them and they certainly do care what the voltage is across the hot leads.

Also, a standard 50amp RV pedestal plug darn well better be wired to opposite phases (of a standard residential 120/240 split phase system) or you're going to burn up the neutral. Wired from a three phase as 120/208 is probably OK as well, but feeding both L1 and L2 from the same phase is a sure way to overload the neutral.

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Old 08-13-2011, 05:53 PM   #36
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You're an industrial electrician and you have to ask?

I'm another former worker in the wrench-turning, install it and make it work end of the technical chain.

Knew my part of networking technology well enough to get the job done, knew the standards and was considered an "expert" by others, in my part of the field.

But like the other poster, I didn't have much visibility into how the standards ended up, who made the choices and why some things were included and others discarded. Some obvious some not.

Suppose I could have spent lots of MY time reading journals and mags to have that extra knowledge, but I have golfing and fishing habits.
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Old 08-13-2011, 10:56 PM   #37
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Can you give an example of an RV A/C that runs on anything other than 120v? If not, your point is moot.
I agree but 240 volt appliances have been discussed in this thread, as mentioned previously electric heaters will have approximately 25% less output.
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Old 08-13-2011, 11:03 PM   #38
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FlyingDiver Wrote:

"Also, a standard 50amp RV pedestal plug darn well better be wired to opposite phases (of a standard residential 120/240 split phase system) or you're going to burn up the neutral. Wired from a three phase as 120/208 is probably OK as well, but feeding both L1 and L2 from the same phase is a sure way to overload the neutral."

A very good point. It works the same on both 120-240 volt systems and 120-208 volt systems. A very good test would be to test for 240 volts or 208 volts between the hot leads to insure the hot leads are not connected to the same pole.
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Old 08-13-2011, 11:08 PM   #39
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I just put tape over the outlets so the electricity doesn't run onto the floor.
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