Jack foot pad!

[Wayne M]

Something to ponder. Do your jack pads have bolts holding the jack foot on, or pins. If pins, read no further.

If you have, like I have on my Winnebago, 3/4 -10 X 1-1/2 bolts holding your jack pad foot on - check them for tightness. I'd even suggest using Red Loctite on the bolt thread.

First time I lost the passenger side on the NY Throughway. Bent the heck out of the Ultra Guard angle iron bracket - no other damage. Replaced it. Some months later the same one came off on I-10 between Houston and San Antonio - no damage this time. Replaced it and used Loctite.

On the road from Fort Stockton to Las Cruces the driver side jack foot came off. Either someone hit me in a parking lot or the foot pad hit the front of the car - ouch! New one ordered and replaced today and I used Loctite on it with a lock washer.

I purchased the foot pad from Lichtsinn in IA and the botls and lock washeers from Fastenal.

Every once in a while crawl under and check the bolts. I guess it's just a rolling earthquake running down the highway.

[JoeMoe]

Every taught of adding a self locking nut? To tell you the truth I never did check how my pad are held on the cylinder shaft, but I know their still there and the Rig is 15 years old. However you got me curious so I will check. Thanks for the info.

[Wayne M]

I think the Red Loctite will do the job - hope!

[Cat320]

Good advice. We were heading south from Amarillo in a previous coach, heard a noise didn't see anything, checked the gauges all good, so kept going. Got the the CG...saw the RR jack foot was gone. Fortunately it did not go through the toad windshield, and since nobody stopped us, I guess it didn't hit anybody else. It was still under warranty at the time and was replaced by a dealer.

[Wayne M]

My second one was checked by my dealer as I was concerned - still came off. So much for dealer confidence.

[firedoc]

Ours are welded.

[IC2]

I would use either a nyloc nut or a distorted thread nut (though that one will probably destroy the bolt if you have to remove it). You can also drill and tap the nut and put in a lock screw to hold the nut in place. I do like Loc-Tite though a nyloc doesn't usually fight as hard if you need to remove it plus is available at any hardware or big box store.

Can you change over to a clevis pin? Tractor Supply (TSC) and probably any other farm store has them in many lengths and diameters for a few bucks

[vsheetz]

Blue LocTite. Will keep it in place and be readily removable. I use it often for many years. The Red LocTite not so removable...

[Wayne M]

Originally Posted by IC2

I would use either a nyloc nut or a distorted thread nut (though that one will probably destroy the bolt if you have to remove it). You can also drill and tap the nut and put in a lock screw to hold the nut in place. I do like Loc-Tite though a nyloc doesn't usually fight as hard if you need to remove it plus is available at any hardware or big box store.

Can you change over to a clevis pin? Tractor Supply (TSC) and probably any other farm store has them in many lengths and diameters for a few bucks

It's not a nut but a bolt and when retracted it is very close to flush with the piston shaft. Loctite may be harder to remove but I don't have any intentions of removing it. I'll let the repair people do any repairs. I'm to old to be crawling around underneath. Takes me a minute to get up off the ground

Originally Posted by vsheetz

Blue LocTite. Will keep it in place and be readily removable. I use it often for many years. The Red LocTite not so removable...

See above. Used blue on one and red on the other one. I'll see how the theory works when the repair people ever have to remove it. Hee hee.