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Old 11-08-2016, 01:33 PM   #60733
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Quote:
Originally Posted by okmunky View Post
What do the Moho manufacturers use when the sell an RV with a residential fridge already installed?
I've seen some not-so great things they attach to the doors. Bigger concern is when things shift, something has to hold it back from opening. I have a big drawer under my stove that has lots of heavy pots/pans in it. Once in a while the latch on that will let go and it'll open (not very often, but it's happened). I even put a new latch on but that didn't stop it from opening up. The bungie cords look secure and even if it did open up, they'd likely close it back. The velcro strap probably works great on french doors. I know the new fridge has an alarm if a door is left open too long so I'll hear it if it happens while driving.
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Old 11-08-2016, 02:19 PM   #60734
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Quote:
Originally Posted by okmunky View Post
What do the Moho manufacturers use when the sell an RV with a residential fridge already installed?

There is a product on the market but it looks as if you have to drill holes.

https://www.amazon.com/RV-Designer-C...ustomerReviews

I use magnetic child locks to keep Sena out of doors and drawers. They use very powerful rare earth magnets. I would think someone would invent a fridge latch that uses magnets.

For our fridge I use a small bungee with a ball on 1 end from the fridge handle to a large hook screwed into the underneath side of the upper cabinet next to the fridge. Sena learned how to open the RV latches on the Dometic after only living in the RV a week.

They use nothing.......



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Old 11-08-2016, 02:45 PM   #60735
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Arrived in Glen Rose about 2 hours ago & began unloading.

Can't believe we had so much in the Micro-Minnie.

Now to look thru mail held @ P.O.

Almost couldn't find house for the leaves....

Hope to be back on the road soon.



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Old 11-08-2016, 03:19 PM   #60736
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Carl, if you do use a 'T' or 'H' configeration, just be careful as they will scratch the doors' surface, even if you pad them. I can only imagine how much more the bars would scratch the surface, if one was to use a harder material for the bars. My suggestion is based on experience. I found that using the 'T' bar was a complete pain in the #$$. You have to maneuver the bar one way, then another way, partially open the doors, and etc.

The velcro was an extra strap from my WINDFLAPPER, and the bungee cords I also had. The bungee cords [2] are held together with a platic holder, so that they will stay together. It is easy to put on & off and takes a minute, if even that much time.

GOOD LUCK
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Old 11-08-2016, 06:06 PM   #60737
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Tim. I found a sign for you too, but don't show Mary.
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Old 11-08-2016, 07:14 PM   #60738
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diwizi View Post
Nope... our T wood thingy broke.... let the freezer door go flying out

3" wide strap of velcro better in my book

When not in use it just hangs so we can remember it....

Attachment 143852

Diane toftSFM#64....... (The Original Fast Talking Sliding Finger Mutant) and is retired, duh!
Carl, are you familiar with "Gear Ties?" They are the items you can get in any sporting section. We use them to secure cabinet door knobs to each other, vacuum in closet, etc. They make a 12" one (or longer) and a few wraps around the handle will hold the doors in place. As stated, child locks on the top fo the doors should work.

p.s., had the same thing happen on a pots and pans drawer under the micro. Wouldn't stay latched so I put a second latch on it. Never had it open again with two latches.
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Old 11-08-2016, 07:24 PM   #60739
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeelarry View Post
Carl, if you do use a 'T' or 'H' configeration, just be careful as they will scratch the doors' surface, even if you pad them. I can only imagine how much more the bars would scratch the surface, if one was to use a harder material for the bars. My suggestion is based on experience. I found that using the 'T' bar was a complete pain in the #$$. You have to maneuver the bar one way, then another way, partially open the doors, and etc.

The velcro was an extra strap from my WINDFLAPPER, and the bungee cords I also had. The bungee cords [2] are held together with a platic holder, so that they will stay together. It is easy to put on & off and takes a minute, if even that much time.

GOOD LUCK
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne M View Post
Carl, are you familiar with "Gear Ties?" They are the items you can get in any sporting section. We use them to secure cabinet door knobs to each other, vacuum in closet, etc. They make a 12" one (or longer) and a few wraps around the handle will hold the doors in place. As stated, child locks on the top fo the doors should work.

p.s., had the same thing happen on a pots and pans drawer under the micro. Wouldn't stay latched so I put a second latch on it. Never had it open again with two latches.
Thanks to all for their suggestions. For the immediate need on Friday, I bought some 2" heavy duty (10 lb) velcro that I plan on putting one or two strips on each side of the freezer door and the other half of the velcro on the door itself. Hopefully that will hold that. I'll also use the velcro for a strap (or two) on the door handles as well.

I also picked up some short shower rods that I can use to keep things from falling off the three shelves. It'll hold them back as the shelves are just flat pieces of glass.

Wayne, great suggestion on TWO latches
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Old 11-08-2016, 07:33 PM   #60740
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Well, today was interesting to say the least. Started Citrus this morning and let her run while I pulled in the slides and raised the jacks. All went well. Pulled into a pull through site to hook up. Shut the motor off as it had warmed up enough and hooked up the TOAD. Starter her up and down the road we went. Only had 79 miles to go and along the way I stopped at a Truck Stop to fuel up. No problem.

Got to Fort Sam Houston Travel Camp, pulled up in front of the office about 12:30 p.m. shut down and went inside to register. Went back out to go to our site and NOTHING. Engine would not even turn over, just a clicking sound even with the Boost batteries.

Hello, Cummins San Antonio, I have a problem. My evaluation was one of two things, a week starter solenoid or my batteries went belly up.

Cummins San Antonio was absolutely fantastic in dealing with. I don't know the last names, but Rachel, Joe and the gentleman that came to service us, Banyon, were wonderful. Banyon first put a voltage meter on the solenoid and when I tried cranking the engine it read 3 volts. Great indications of a bad battery, so when a cell goes dead - it's dead and no boost is going to get it to turn over since the voltage will not flow through a dead cell.

Two new 1000 Cranking Amp batteries later it turned right over and the alternator output was 14.16 volts. I finally got into our site and was completely hooked up by 4 p.m.

Interesting to note that all gauges lit up when the key was turned on but no juice to the starter. When I talked with freightliner he agreed that it was solenoid or batteries. He asked me to start the generator and with the generator running to push and hold the battery boost button for 3 minutes to see if I could get a charge on the service batteries. He stated that the generator would not charge the service batteries without the boost button depressed. I'm still perplexed at that one.

Many $$$$ later all is well and we went to dinner this evening at Sushihanna.
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Old 11-08-2016, 07:36 PM   #60741
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bokobird View Post
Thanks to all for their suggestions. For the immediate need on Friday, I bought some 2" heavy duty (10 lb) velcro that I plan on putting one or two strips on each side of the freezer door and the other half of the velcro on the door itself. Hopefully that will hold that. I'll also use the velcro for a strap (or two) on the door handles as well.

I also picked up some short shower rods that I can use to keep things from falling off the three shelves. It'll hold them back as the shelves are just flat pieces of glass.

Wayne, great suggestion on TWO latches
Carl, search for "Refrigerator Child Proof Lock" for some ideas. The velcro should work. One on the top of the Ref. and one on the door (near the top corners, center, of the door) then one strip of velcro from the top to the one on the door. They make some heavy duty velcro. It is greay in color and instead of just a fuzzy piece it has loops and needs to be pressed in place. I use it on my dash for TPMS and other items. Works great.
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Old 11-08-2016, 07:41 PM   #60742
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Tim. I found a sign for you too, but don't show Mary.
Nah nah, you can't get me!!! Pffffffft!
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Old 11-08-2016, 07:45 PM   #60743
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Carl, search for "Refrigerator Child Proof Lock" for some ideas. The velcro should work. One on the top of the Ref. and one on the door (near the top corners, center, of the door) then one strip of velcro from the top to the one on the door. They make some heavy duty velcro. It is greay in color and instead of just a fuzzy piece it has loops and needs to be pressed in place. I use it on my dash for TPMS and other items. Works great.
I invested heavily in that much stronger velcro to build the bird houses in the RV. That's what holds the Lexan to the trim wood. It's rated at 25 lbs! Very heavy duty and very expensive. Easily spent over $100 on that stuff doing the bird houses. I didn't think I'd need to go that heavy duty but I still have a roll of it in the RV so if the light stuff doesn't work out (I suspect it will), I have a fallback plan if any trouble occurs on the road.

I also picked up a nice surge protecting outlet to replace the crapped out one the Norcold was plugged into. Need to protect that new expensive thing!
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Old 11-08-2016, 08:16 PM   #60744
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Mobile irv2 site not working.....

Oh noooo Wayne, sorry
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Old 11-08-2016, 08:19 PM   #60745
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Mobile irv2 site not working.....



Oh noooo Wayne, sorry

Working for me 😀
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Old 11-08-2016, 08:19 PM   #60746
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R U an RV Mutant too?

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Mobile irv2 site not working.....



Oh noooo Wayne, sorry

Oh now it is working...... after i went over to the full site.....



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