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Old 02-07-2011, 10:04 PM   #15
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More pics would help a lot, but it looks like you have 12' walls. Removing the roof , would be the way to go. A lot of the roof could be reused to keep cost down. Run parallel beams through the middle of the building, with supporting beams. At that point raise only the center section of the roof that will be needed. Then put shed roofs on both sides. Another advantage of raising the roof is most of the outside siding, windows, & electrical can be reused.

Concrete cores might need to be drilled, to determine if the concrete will support the weight of the motor home.

Good Luck!
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Old 02-08-2011, 06:01 AM   #16
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My Uncle had the same problem.

The contractor jacked up one side of the roof, extended the side wall up, then jacked up the other side and extended that side wall.

It worked out well.
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Old 02-08-2011, 08:02 AM   #17
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Remove the roof and add to the walls. As had been suggested much of the material can be reclaimed and reduce your cost. Any other modifications will likely create other problems.
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Old 02-08-2011, 10:09 AM   #18
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I really hate to admit this, but I agree with Seajay's post.

Why do you need 14 feet of clearance?
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Old 02-08-2011, 10:31 AM   #19
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Bifold Doors: Aircraft Hangar Door & Custom Commercial Door Manufacturer for ideas.
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Old 02-08-2011, 10:57 AM   #20
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Do you have sufficient roof clearance between the trusses and the highest point on the Motor home? If so, you may be able to get away with modifying the door area and installing a sliding door or swing doors (barn doors). If more overhead clearance is needed, can a good carpenter modify the trusses in place - over the area needed. There are trusses made for raised ceilings, our house has them in the family room.
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Old 02-08-2011, 11:13 AM   #21
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Quote:
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The "moving wall" video is pretty neat! Joe
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Old 02-08-2011, 11:27 AM   #22
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Route66 has the right answer.

Whatever you do, don't destroy the floor (slab) integrity. Cutting trusses (IMHO) would require a qualified engineer. Trusses are engineered, not guessed at.

If you are really going to live there a long time at least try to find the contractor who built it originally. Elevating a wood structure like yours is not that difficult.

Kerry
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Old 02-08-2011, 11:33 AM   #23
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Whatever you do, don't destroy the floor (slab) integrity.
Just to set the record straight, we routinely bring in contractors to saw existing slabs to remove a section where a machine tool foundation will be poured or where a pit will be installed. This does require qualified personnel, but it's done every day.

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Old 02-08-2011, 02:06 PM   #24
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Quote:
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My Uncle had the same problem.

The contractor jacked up one side of the roof, extended the side wall up, then jacked up the other side and extended that side wall.

It worked out well.
have to admit this is the easiest solution, done all the time. With a truss roof not too difficult.
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Old 02-08-2011, 02:42 PM   #25
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Lindy,

I really have nothing to add to the wild and wonderful suggestions your question has generated.

One thing though. Everything I (and others) can think of are fairly expensive. Does this building have to provide all of your needs, or is there room to build another that suits better.

Steve
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Old 02-08-2011, 02:52 PM   #26
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If you have room under the roof 14' then you could utilize commercial steel and have it engineered for strength that would give you room almost to the roof. We recently built our entire custom house out of steel framing and the open spans allowed by steel that is properly engineered is amazing. There is a truss company in Los Angeles that we used called Alpine Truss that could make you the necessary truss additions out of steel and if your roof is over 14' it would be the cheapest way to go.
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Old 02-08-2011, 03:06 PM   #27
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Quote:
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Why do you need 14 feet of clearance?
The '07 Mountain Aire is about 12' 8" and 13' 6" is the max height allowed for a vehicle, so a 14' door will allow any new MH clearance.
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Old 02-08-2011, 03:12 PM   #28
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Rusty: I fail to see how an industrial machine tool installation applies in this case. Your comment adds nothing to the OP's question.

Of course concrete can be cut, there are companies that do it for a living.

What is the thickness, # of bags, size rebar or other reinforcement in the OP's slab ??
That's the great unknown.

Kerry
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