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Old 02-08-2011, 03:19 PM   #29
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Perhaps I misinterpreted your post. I thought you were saying "don't, under any circumstances, cut the slab" rather than just maintain the slab's integrity. I was merely pointing out that there are ways to remove a section from a slab without compromising its integrity. The relevance of my post to the OP's question is tied to my post #3, OK?

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Old 02-09-2011, 01:56 PM   #30
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For $500, you could hire a local professional to come and inspect the building and give your a "rough" estimate.
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Old 02-11-2011, 12:01 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Route 66 View Post
The '07 Mountain Aire is about 12' 8" and 13' 6" is the max height allowed for a vehicle, so a 14' door will allow any new MH clearance.
Seems to me that 13' 7" would allow clearance. My MH is 12' 4" so I'd only need 12' 5" for clearance. It would be tight, but once in what is the clearance inside. If there is ample clearance inside it is only necessary to get it through a door clearance taking all things into consideration. I have taken a 5er through tunnels that said 13' 6" and I was at 13' 5" inches.

Just thinkin' outloud. (that's my problem)
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Old 02-13-2011, 09:17 AM   #32
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I think 14' would be a standard size and would be less expensive than a custom size.And if you are raising the roof anyway another couple inches would not matter
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Old 02-13-2011, 03:09 PM   #33
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By looking at the building it already has engineered trusses so I would contact a contractor or if you can do it yourself someone that sells trusses and have them make a set step trusses that will clear your RV. If they are made just long enough so they can be installed from the inside and set on a 2X6 nailed to the stud wall. After they are installed nail the new and old trusses together and cut out the parts of the old trusses that will be in the way.

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Old 02-13-2011, 04:15 PM   #34
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My wife and I are relocating to be closer to the plethora of specialists and doctors my son will be following up with.

We've found a beautiful house on 10 acres. It has a brand new 50x30 garage/shop - matches the home with hardiplank, windows, etc. 200A service, already wired with 50A for RV. The problem? It has 10ft doors! Gah!!

Before making an offer, I'm trying to decide what the best approach to the garage is as that is a selling point for me -- we won't be traveling much for a couple of years and I'd like to protect my investment.

Does anyone know what, if anything, can be done and any idea whatsoever a ballpark figure for doing so? Raise the roof? Raise the entire structure and place it on a block foundation (that seems like a lot of work with the windows and doors)?

Thanks in advance for any insight!
Looks like you have a round 36 ft wide and 3 or 4 ?12 pitch if 3/12 you would go up 59 in middle plus 2 ft above 1o ft door that is at corner of doors 12 ft wide a pitch ofa bout 15 ft that cutting it close at edge of 14 ft doors,but might work,I'd go with strong back truss at 12 ft wide. Get-R-done!
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Old 02-14-2011, 08:09 AM   #35
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By looking at the building it already has engineered trusses so I would contact a contractor or if you can do it yourself someone that sells trusses and have them make a set step trusses that will clear your RV. If they are made just long enough so they can be installed from the inside and set on a 2X6 nailed to the stud wall. After they are installed nail the new and old trusses together and cut out the parts of the old trusses that will be in the way.

Denny
The kind of truss I was thinking about is a cambered or tray truss.

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