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Old 01-14-2007, 07:32 AM   #1
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A long time ago I bought a 35k BTU heater for my shop and didn't buy the cart to move it around. I built a DIY version out of some scrap lumber, scrap PVC, some tires from Harbor Freight/TSC and some 5/8" nuts/bolts/washer gets me a cart for about $15 or less.



Now that I had a roll around heater the next problem was the electrical hookup. There is no on/off switch and a very short cord. So, took a light duty extension cord I had laying around the shop, a electrical box, a duplex outlet and a single pole switch. Total cost maybe $5. Now I could just flip the switch and turn the heater on or off. I also had an extra outlet for a trouble light or some other light duty piece of equipment.




Here is how I wired it up.


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Old 01-14-2007, 07:32 AM   #2
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A long time ago I bought a 35k BTU heater for my shop and didn't buy the cart to move it around. I built a DIY version out of some scrap lumber, scrap PVC, some tires from Harbor Freight/TSC and some 5/8" nuts/bolts/washer gets me a cart for about $15 or less.



Now that I had a roll around heater the next problem was the electrical hookup. There is no on/off switch and a very short cord. So, took a light duty extension cord I had laying around the shop, a electrical box, a duplex outlet and a single pole switch. Total cost maybe $5. Now I could just flip the switch and turn the heater on or off. I also had an extra outlet for a trouble light or some other light duty piece of equipment.




Here is how I wired it up.


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Old 01-14-2007, 07:45 AM   #3
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Dale, I like it.

I would like to suggest another mod for you. Connect the intake on your heater to the outside air via a fexible tube so your bringing in fresh air with the combustion.
Saw this idea in Farm Show Magazine.
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Old 01-14-2007, 07:55 AM   #4
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I thought of that but in my 40x75 foot building it would take a lot of flexible duct work or I would have to cut vent holes in the side walls.

With the peak of the ceiling being some 20' from the floor, 3 20' peak vents and a 36" gable power vent I can get all the fresh air I need (I think).
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Old 01-14-2007, 09:25 AM   #5
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Dale, combustion and flamable liquids on a wood frame makes me nervous. be careful!
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Old 01-14-2007, 10:09 AM   #6
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Jestme13:
Dale, combustion and flammable liquids on a wood frame makes me nervous. be careful! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Dry wallers and painters in this part of the country lay red paper on the floor of a garage and run the heaters right on the paper. Never heard of a problem. Might be a dumb thing to do but it is done all the time.
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Old 01-14-2007, 10:32 AM   #7
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I can see the OSHA approval stamp on the 2x4 or does that say stud grade? Close enough.

Nice size shop.
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Old 01-14-2007, 11:33 AM   #8
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Steve,

There is always a chance for fire - wood, metal, PVC what ever. Me, I make ever effort not to fill the heater inside and I always let it cool before I refill. Common sense goes along way as far as saftey is concerned.

Donavon,

Just stud grade... An OSHA approved 2x4 would cost more than I could afford and the paper work !!!
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Old 01-14-2007, 07:30 PM   #9
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I wired mine with a line voltage thermostat.It had a set of wheels on the front and a pipe handle on the other end.No wood.
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Old 01-15-2007, 06:07 AM   #10
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Nice looking setup-I have use this type of heater for more than 20 years -works great.
RichR
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