Community Forums

WVPete · 01-14-2018, 06:56 AM

In my 2005 Dutch Star, the electric heating element was not working in the water heater. I determined that there was power to the rear of the water heater but couldn't figure out why the element didn't work.

I searched iRV2 for a solution but found none. I'm not saying the answer is not in here somewhere, I just couldn't find it.

There are several things I checked. The element itself had the proper resistance, so it was good. The high temperature switches that can be reset appeared to be in good condition. There is a little black switch on the front of the unit. I was not sure what it was for or how to remove it. There are no screws.
It turns out that you pry this switch out and it is to turn the 120 ac current on and off. (Of course there is also a switch inside the coach that does the same thing) Anyway, this switch was bad. After a quick trip to RV Outlet Mall in Georgetown Texas, I got a new switch for $5. Problem solved. By the way, if you are ever in this neck of the woods and need parts, these folks were very friendly and they have a ton of stuff in their store.

I hope this is helpful to someone.

jacwjames · 01-14-2018, 07:44 AM

So the small black ON/OFF switch on the water heater failed. Could you tell what happened to it.

Last week my electric switch would not turn on, the water heater worked on propane. I checked fuses, flipped and reset the breaker, reset the temp control on the water heater itself. Then just for the heck of it flipped the small ON/OFF switch. When I tried the inside switch again it did not work but since I had propane to use I wasn't in a hurry. After 3-4 days I accidently hit the inside electric switch and it worked, no idea what happen.

There was one other potential source, it could have been either the EMS relay that lets power pass to the water heater or the 12V to 120V relay that the inside switch sends a 12V single to. Never got that far to find the actual problem.

aether_one · 01-14-2018, 07:50 AM

That little black switch is the only way to turn on the electric heating element in most travel trailers. They do tend to corrode and become very hard to operate if they are unused.

MSHappyCampers · 01-14-2018, 01:30 PM

I believe the outside switch is the "master" switch for the AC element. As was mentioned, many RV's don't have a switch inside. In order for the WH to work on AC, that outside switch must be on! The inside switch just allows you to turn the AC on and off without having to go outside.

Old-Biscuit · 01-14-2018, 02:00 PM

Suburban uses the Outside ON/OFF Switch for the electric element.
It is the only switch for electric provided BY Suburban
RV Mfgs sometimes 'add' an add'l on/off switch INSIDE RV for convenience....otherwise you have to go outside to turn element On/Off

IF you have Inside & Outside Switches BOTH have to be ON for element to get 120V AC -----comes directly from an AC Circuit Breaker to switch(s) then to/thru set of normal/Hi temp t-stats then to element
T-stats under cover above gas valve with 'Push To Reset'.....Hi Temp T-stat trips if water temp goes above 170*F....manual reset.
Left Reset Button for 120V AC ---electric element (Black Wires)
Right Reset Button for 12V DC ----propane (Red wires)

OEM Electric Switch being located in Outside Compartment are prone to failures due to exposure to elements....contacts corrode/switch falls apart
Common issue with Suburban dual models

Old-Biscuit · 01-14-2018, 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jacwjames

So the small black ON/OFF switch on the water heater failed. Could you tell what happened to it.

Last week my electric switch would not turn on, the water heater worked on propane. I checked fuses, flipped and reset the breaker, reset the temp control on the water heater itself. Then just for the heck of it flipped the small ON/OFF switch. When I tried the inside switch again it did not work but since I had propane to use I wasn't in a hurry. After 3-4 days I accidently hit the inside electric switch and it worked, no idea what happen.

There was one other potential source, it could have been either the EMS relay that lets power pass to the water heater or the 12V to 120V relay that the inside switch sends a 12V single to. Never got that far to find the actual problem.

Majority of Suburban combo Water Heaters use 120V AC directly to AC Element and 12V DC for propane

UNLESS it is a 'DEL' model......they use 12V DC via relay to control120V AC to element. Only Suburban Model that does.
(All Atwood combo water heater since 2004 use that DC Control Scheme)